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Engine stops pulling at 7k
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jwhelan65
I'm sure the valves need adjusting, but it starts immediately if I turn the petcock to prime. Has to be the float level after reading everything here.
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Originally posted by jwhelan65 View PostI'm sure the valves need adjusting, but it starts immediately if I turn the petcock to prime. Has to be the float level after reading everything here.
PS: Since it runs into a wall at 7K, I would perform a voltage drop test in the garage below 7K in 2000 rpm increments up to max revs. Compare voltage drop values at both coils. With no load in the garage does it rev right past 7K?Last edited by srsupertrap; 11-27-2010, 10:24 AM.Steve
1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by srsupertrap View PostRead through the thread: Jim you stated carbs have been cleaned, I take it you cleaned them and dipped them etc but didn't check the float height. If you were the first one ever in the carbs then the last time the floats were "set" was at the factory. Usually those guys set the floats with a Go/No-Go gage, hard to believe all four are set wrong. Of course this reasoning does not take into account anyone screwing around between then & now.
PS: Since it runs into a wall at 7K, I would perform a voltage drop test in the garage below 7K in 2000 rpm increments up to max revs. Compare voltage drop values at both coils. With no load in the garage does it rev right past 7K?
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Just another thought:
1) You already adjusted floats, so they are okay.
2) Valve adjustment won't change by sitting but certainly due.
3) While running in the garage in Neutral with the gas cap REMOVED if the engine spins right past 7K then like G said it fuel starvation problem. The gas cap vent has become clogged which could happend over the course of sittingSteve
1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by srsupertrap View PostJust another thought:
1) You already adjusted floats, so they are okay.
2) Valve adjustment won't change by sitting but certainly due.
3) While running in the garage in Neutral with the gas cap REMOVED if the engine spins right past 7K then like G said it fuel starvation problem. The gas cap vent has become clogged which could happend over the course of sitting
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One more place to look is a partially clogged exhaust, since it has been sitting there could be mouse nests in there (or even the mice!), little kids putting jellybeans or beads in the exhaust, it could be anything. I had one GS 1000 that wouldn't go high RPM, some PO had stuffed a big ball of steel wool down into the pipe. Also once had a car where something broke in the muffler and blocked it, they both ran somewhat similar to what you are describing.
More likely you will find something else wrong but this is just another possibility if everything else checks out.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostOne more place to look is a partially clogged exhaust, since it has been sitting there could be mouse nests in there (or even the mice!), little kids putting jellybeans or beads in the exhaust, it could be anything. I had one GS 1000 that wouldn't go high RPM, some PO had stuffed a big ball of steel wool down into the pipe. Also once had a car where something broke in the muffler and blocked it, they both ran somewhat similar to what you are describing.
More likely you will find something else wrong but this is just another possibility if everything else checks out.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35645
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by jwhelan65 View PostHey Jim,
Yes it is very hard starting and the idle increases after it warms up. I had it out today and it killed, I had to turn the petcock to Prime to get it to start. Plugs are appear to be ok. Ed mentioned swapping out the igniter with my 1100 but the connection are different.
The ignitor part numbers for the '80 750E and '82 1100E are both within the same supercession tree. Are you sure the plugs are different? Doesn't sound right. Basically, all the ignitors are the same other than the later model bikes with the advance curve is built in. Since both your bikes have a mechanical advance the ignitors should interchange.
Please double check and report back.
EdEd
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13978
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
I had this on my 1000g except at 6k. Turned out to be an ignitor fault.
Dyna S fixed it.
You can use any of the 16v ignitors that have the advance step in them, they are all close enough not to matter....1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35645
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by salty_monk View PostI had this on my 1000g except at 6k. Turned out to be an ignitor fault.
Dyna S fixed it.
You can use any of the 16v ignitors that have the advance step in them, they are all close enough not to matter....
This model bike has a mechanical advance, so the ignitor is a common part with most other GS's. The bikes with the built in advance are the '83+ 750 (like yours), the 1150, and the '82+ 850/1100G.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13978
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
In that case he could fit a Dyna S couldn't he? Would it fit?
I spent ages chasing this same problem on my 1000G
The ignitor box did fail one of the clymer manual tests when I did finally check it and the Dyna fixed it instantly...
From memory you have to hook it up and use 1.5v batt as a trigger1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by Nessism View PostJoe,
The ignitor part numbers for the '80 750E and '82 1100E are both within the same supercession tree. Are you sure the plugs are different? Doesn't sound right. Basically, all the ignitors are the same other than the later model bikes with the advance curve is built in. Since both your bikes have a mechanical advance the ignitors should interchange.
Please double check and report back.
Ed
82 1100E
80 750 E
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jwhelan65
I did find some yuk in the tank cap, which certainly cant be good. I cleaned it all out and put it back on and took it for a ride. I am still having the same problem..
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jwhelan65
Question...should the cap hiss at all when you remove it? I never noticed it on the 700. When I checked it, it did not.
Also when I rev it in the garage with the cap off, I can redline it without bogging...put the cap back on and went for another ride and same thing bogs at 6-7k?????
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