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More restriction to the air filter side of the carburetors will richen the fuel mixture.
From what I have read, pods on CV carbs are tricky to tune. One thing is the removal of the stock air box and boots. The boots are shaped similar to velocity stacks inside the air box. This geometry of the flow path is changed/removed when pods are used. The geometry change also changes the velocity, but more critical the pressure that is being sensed at the intake throat of the carburetors. The sense pressure is what controls the slides, which allows them to move up as the throttle is applied.
If the slides are not moving up as throttle is applied, or not moving up at the same rate, it is actually restricting the intake, air filter side, of the carburetors. Thus creating a richer condition. Instead of air entering the carburetors, the vacuum is increased across the jets drawing more fuel.
If I remember correctly the Dynojet kit is what you need for pods given it has the drills to make the needed adjustments to compensate for the change in the intake geometry.
On the main jet, #122.5 is stock, which yes really seems big for a 700cc, but these are 32mm CV carbs. For comparison sake, in the VM29, 29mm, smoothbores I'm running #105 mains since cool weather has set in, but #102.5s might be a better selection in the summer. This is a big difference between #122.5 mains as stock and #105 mains on the aftermarket carbs. This sort of goes to show the importance of the pressures observed across the venturi and at the throat of the the 2 different sets of carburetors as to how the carburetors meter the fuel. Same engine.
IMHO, the emgos that received the vasoline, carb cleaner, and burn treatment should be thrown in the garbage.
Other.
Not a clutch thread, but might be useful information.
Clutch springs? Back plate or the 4 compressing the clutch plates?
On the 4 springs for the clutch plates I would recomend the either stock or Barnett springs. The EBC springs I tested had a lower sping load at working height than the stock springs by about 5 lbs. 40 lbs as apposed to 45 lbs stock. I am running a 13t front and 47t rear sprocket and the lower gearing running the EBC springs caused the clutch to slip. The regular Barnett springs, don't think they make heavy duty for the 83' 750 or 700, but they were closer to 70 lbs. A little more grip is needed to hold the clutch in, but not too noticable while changing gears. Barnett springs are a little more, but not by $10 or so.
Good luck. I really think you need to invest in a Dynojet kit with a change to pod filters to get it to run right.
E
From what I have read, pods on CV carbs are tricky to tune. One thing is the removal of the stock air box and boots. The boots are shaped similar to velocity stacks inside the air box. This geometry of the flow path is changed/removed when pods are used. The geometry change also changes the velocity, but more critical the pressure that is being sensed at the intake throat of the carburetors. The sense pressure is what controls the slides, which allows them to move up as the throttle is applied.
If the slides are not moving up as throttle is applied, or not moving up at the same rate, it is actually restricting the intake, air filter side, of the carburetors. Thus creating a richer condition. Instead of air entering the carburetors, the vacuum is increased across the jets drawing more fuel.
If I remember correctly the Dynojet kit is what you need for pods given it has the drills to make the needed adjustments to compensate for the change in the intake geometry.
On the main jet, #122.5 is stock, which yes really seems big for a 700cc, but these are 32mm CV carbs. For comparison sake, in the VM29, 29mm, smoothbores I'm running #105 mains since cool weather has set in, but #102.5s might be a better selection in the summer. This is a big difference between #122.5 mains as stock and #105 mains on the aftermarket carbs. This sort of goes to show the importance of the pressures observed across the venturi and at the throat of the the 2 different sets of carburetors as to how the carburetors meter the fuel. Same engine.
IMHO, the emgos that received the vasoline, carb cleaner, and burn treatment should be thrown in the garbage.
Other.
Not a clutch thread, but might be useful information.
Clutch springs? Back plate or the 4 compressing the clutch plates?
On the 4 springs for the clutch plates I would recomend the either stock or Barnett springs. The EBC springs I tested had a lower sping load at working height than the stock springs by about 5 lbs. 40 lbs as apposed to 45 lbs stock. I am running a 13t front and 47t rear sprocket and the lower gearing running the EBC springs caused the clutch to slip. The regular Barnett springs, don't think they make heavy duty for the 83' 750 or 700, but they were closer to 70 lbs. A little more grip is needed to hold the clutch in, but not too noticable while changing gears. Barnett springs are a little more, but not by $10 or so.
Good luck. I really think you need to invest in a Dynojet kit with a change to pod filters to get it to run right.
E
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