'82 GS1100EZ Air Screw Setting

[sedelen]

I just wanted to throw out a quick question, I was trying to find what the pilot (air screw) should be set at for an '82 GS1100EZ in totally stock configuration. I checked the service manual and it says "pre-set" but they
need to be adjusted as I'm sure they're not set right. Surely this shouldn't be a top secret setting. This screw is also not identified in the parts fische as far as I can tell to even correctly identify it, but it's the screw farthest front and top of carb, over the throat.
Thanks in Advance!

[Dusty]

Hi,
I havent seen this officially documented anywhere, as you say they are meant to be 'pre-set' in the factory.
Anyhow I can tell you the setting on my 1100E, I dont know if it is factory, but it works well.
From fully screwed in, turn back out anti-clockwise 6 full 360 degree turns.

[Nessism]

I suggest 2.5 turns out from lightly seated, and then tweak each screw until you achieve the highest idle setting - all screws should be within roughly 1/2 of each other.

[sedelen]

Hi,
I havent seen this officially documented anywhere, as you say they are meant to be 'pre-set' in the factory.
Anyhow I can tell you the setting on my 1100E, I dont know if it is factory, but it works well.
From fully screwed in, turn back out anti-clockwise 6 full 360 degree turns.

Thanks,
6 full turns, seems like alot, I was thinking it would be in the neighborhood of 1-1.5 turns. As critical as that is, I would think it would be addressed in the service manual, other than the statement it is set at the factory and shouldn't be messed with and if you do, should take it to your Suzuki dealer for repair if they can or something to that effect. They don't even show it in the parts fische that I can see. And my No. 3 is running rich, and in the balancing of carb section there isn't any adjustment for that carb on the sync meter. I'm going to have to read that section again very carefully to see if I overlooked something.

[koolaid_kid]

First, it is not mentioned because they were not supposed to be tampered with. From the factory there is a cap placed over them so they are not accessible. You don't balance #3, you balance the other carbs to it. Think of it as your baseline, if you will.
I set mine just as Nessism stated, I started at 2 1/2 and ended up right around 3 turns out. Well, bwringer did the work, but I watched and learned.

[Nessism]

When syncing there is an adjust to level 2 and 3 together. Once those are level then you set 1 (or 4, order doesn't matter) equal with 2-3, and then the last carb.

My understanding is max flow though the pilot screw circuit will occur at about 4 turns. Opening beyond this point will not result in any additional flow so if you still need more it's time to bump up the pilot jets one size.

[sedelen]

Thanks for all your inputs,
I think I have a pretty good idea now on where to start, starting about 2.5 turns lightly seated and slowly work out from there shooting for highest rpm. Before I attempt that though I got some new airbox boots & clamps, carb boots and clamps, airbox inner rings (the new revised part number ones are very thin metal with no open end, look like a press in style, anxious to see how that's gonna work or if I end up using the old style). The only other puzzling thing I got is my air cleaner cover. Although it looks and fits like
a stock cover, it has a screen wire mesh instead of being solid. I didn't give it much thought until now, I don't believe it would cause a lean condition but I don't rightly know, I would think the air cleaner would be restrictive enough and don't believe using a cover or not would make much difference, but I could be wrong. Otherwise the bike is stock.

[bonanzadave]

I would think the air cleaner would be restrictive enough and don't believe using a cover or not would make much difference, but I could be wrong.

Night and day difference. Find the stock solid cover before ya do any adjustments.

[sedelen]

Night and day difference. Find the stock solid cover before ya do any adjustments.

This unusual (aftermarket?) cover may be cause of my carburetor problems all along and why rebuilding the carbs has not corrected the problem. It's very hard to find a stock cover, but I can modify the one I got. All I'll have to do is find a piece of sheet aluminum cut it to size and place it in the cover frame. I have ridden several of my bikes without the cover at times and never experienced a problem, but since I have always had carburetion problems with this bike I want to eliminate that as a possibility. Thanks!

[koolaid_kid]

Finding a stock cover will be difficult, at best. I made one out of ABS plastic, solved my lean problems and allowed me to tune the carbs correctly. If you are wanting to get going quickly while you search or fabricate, duct tape works just fine.

[TooManyToys]

When I went back to stock from the K&Ns I could not find my stock cover. 35 years of packed away stuff is not cataloged well enough

I took a clear plastic cover that we get from take out food and cut off the lip. Then laying it on top of the box I could see thorugh the plastic and was able to mark where I needed to cut so the plastic would cover correctly. After cutting, strips of duct tape hold it in place until I discover my long hidden treasure.

[sedelen]

Thanks Again,
I do have a cover, and to me it looked like a stock cover until I realized a true stock cover doesn't have a mesh screen inside the frame. The bike did run good but lean, a couple of my pipes were blue. I suspected gummed up carbs took it to the shop and that's where my real troubles began. I'm learning alot. My stock bike is now rejetted richer, probably because of that cover. It would be easy for me to fabricate a new inside to fit the frame of my existing cover, but I'm considering using duct tape as a temp fix. I'm going to see if my
GS1000 cover fits, looks like it could, probably 850 too, and if it does expand my search for either of those.
Also I noticed the jetting is different for the '82 models than the previous years, such as the main jet increased to #110 from #107.5 and the Pilot air jet is different at #170 but can't locate what it was previously.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If they are not in your manual, see if the specs are here:

Suzuki GS Series Carb Specs


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Mysuzyq]

I have ridden several of my bikes without the cover at times and never experienced a problem, but since I have always had carburetion problems with this bike I want to eliminate that as a possibility. Thanks!

Losing the cover was a popular mod, usually done along with re-jetting for a 4X1 pipe (I think Vance & Hines recommended it?) but it may well cause a lean condition with a stock system & jetting. Replace the cover as best you can, and maybe do a search for 1100E Canadian jetting specs ....the Canadian bikes had richer jetting, stock, due to lower EPA restrictions, and ran a bit stronger I'm told.

[sedelen]

Thanks again guys!
I Needed those carb spec's BassCliff.
Made a "temporary" liner for my unusual cover out of a cat liter box top. Found my GS1000 cover fits perfectly, located and hopefully have one on the way soon. The bike seems to run a little better, a little cooler, but still isn't quite right though.
Probably the air screws, maybe a carb resync, main jet washer at the seat of No. 3 carb (which I have) and carb plugs (which I also have) and I got some new air box boots, inner rings, carb boot clamps (carb boots are new), hopefully all that will make a noticeable improverment. In the meantime I'm going to ride it as the temp hits 70 today.