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wont recover from full throttle
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muzakstylee
wont recover from full throttle
Ok, bike is an 83 gs1100e. Has 1166 pistons, dyna 2000 ignition, vance and hines 4/1, pods stock cv carbs with stupid large mains. It pulls really strong at full tilt and when I get off the gas it stumbles really bad in the 1/8 to 1/4 range once I get back to 1/2 or above it pulls but after hearty amount of POPs and bangs. If I roll slow into 1/4 it runs ok. It just dosnt want to cruise after full throttle pulls. Original thought was needles but I'm curious if floats may be to blame. I'm lost mikuni states floats on cv carbs have a lot to do with off idle. But what's strange is how it won't recover after hard pulls. Any ideas.Tags: None
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7981GS
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Billy Ricks
Check the needle jets on the slides. If they aren't slotted to allow for adjustment someone just threw some big a$$ mains in there and called the jetting done. You can tell adjustable needles from stock by looking down the carb throat. With the slides up and the needles exposed an adjustable needle will look like a fat needle. Stock needles have very little taper and a blunt end. Without proper needles you'll never get it right. You need a Dynojet Stage 3.
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Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostCheck the needle jets on the slides. If they aren't slotted to allow for adjustment someone just threw some big a$$ mains in there and called the jetting done. You can tell adjustable needles from stock by looking down the carb throat. With the slides up and the needles exposed an adjustable needle will look like a fat needle. Stock needles have very little taper and a blunt end. Without proper needles you'll never get it right. You need a Dynojet Stage 3.
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muzakstylee
Just checked,stock needles. I do know the bike ran pretty good in summer . But with pods and cold weather I'm assuming they wont be spot on. It's just weird to me that the bike will run 1/4 to half fine as long as I dont open her up first. Just weird that carb is cool unless you gun it . Then she fails. Gets worse as she heats up.
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Originally posted by muzakstylee View PostJust checked,stock needles. I do know the bike ran pretty good in summer . But with pods and cold weather I'm assuming they wont be spot on. It's just weird to me that the bike will run 1/4 to half fine as long as I dont open her up first. Just weird that carb is cool unless you gun it . Then she fails. Gets worse as she heats up.
start at step one, and stay there till step one is done, don't go beyond step one till step one is done. Also step one is one before step 2 which is step one.
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BassCliff
Greetings and Salutations!!
Hi Mr. muzakstylee
Let me share some GS lovin'.
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If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...
Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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muzakstylee
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cableguy
I'm pretty new to this stuff too, but (please correct me if I'm off track) it sounds like the carbs/plugs aren't recovering from being way too rich on WOT, almost like the plugs are close to fouling, and once that excess burns off it runs OK again. If the floats are stuck wouldn't gas just pour out of the vent?
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Too rich on the needles will fowl plugs at full throttle. Ask me how I know.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Look at the 3133 Dynojet kit. The largest main in the kit may be too small for the 1166 kit.
Is the head stock?
What size main in in there now?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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cableguy
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GSexpress
If the plugs were fouling at WFO they would start to miss while still wide open.
What you have is a fuel flow problem. WFO is lowering the float bowls to where there is very little fuel left for returning to normal mix at lower throttle. They may be too low to begin with but the fuel is not flowing fast enough to fill them back up quickly. That is why a slow roll on works. You need to check for flow restrictions from the tank. Pull the petcock and check the strainers too. And make sure your float levels are correct. and bowls are clean. Then start working on making sure the jetting is correct. Fuel flow problems can play hob with getting a propper reading on jets.
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muzakstylee
Ok did some pulls today and plugs show stark white after wot. mains are mikuni 167.5 needles are stock but raised and floats are 20 mm. It seams like awful lot of jet to still be lean
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