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wont recover from full throttle

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    #16
    You may have too much advance on your ignition. Is the ceramic white and spotted?
    Something is wrong here. I run 147.5s with a 1230 kit with oversize valves and ported.
    I would check advance and make sure you are getting good fuel flow.
    Set the floats at 24mm.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Like I said, check your fuel flow. If you're not flowing enough fuel to keep the bowls full, you're going to run lean at wfo no matter how big the jets are.

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        #18
        Ok raised floats to 23 mm today and bike ran a lot better. But It still shows lean at wot. I've been really curious on the timing cuz that's the only variable since it was dyno tuned a year ago. Everytime I rotate rotor clockwise to retard timing it runs like **** and oddly seems to want to ping. Is there another way to set timing besides using tdc and making reference from that point. My rotor is at the extent of its adj. range when set correctly. Or what I believe to be correct. Another is do I need to be using something other than stock petcock? Cuz I went to the parts store today looking for jets larger than 167.5 and the guys laughed

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          #19
          I pulled my petcock out, screen is clear and diaphragm is in intact but its real hard to turn.

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            #20
            You set the timing on the 2000 with the ignitioin on. Just rotate the crank till the light on the box lights up. I'd set it at 34 degrees. There are numbers on the rotor you line up to the mark on the plate.
            I'd really consider going with a Pingle petcock. I chased my tail with a stock petcock and an 1166 kit.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #21
              Raised your float level and it ran better, DING, DING, DING, DING, DING.

              We have a winner!

              That means that the float level stayed higher longer. But it's still not getting replentished quickly enough. Somewhere between the tank and the float bowl it's being restricted. You need to check every passage and hose, and inside the petcock. Messing with the timing or anything else is a waiste of time and can only make the problem worse by changing things that aren't involved.

              Once you know you've got enought fuel getting to the cylinders you will find it easier to dial in everything else.

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                #22
                I wasn't trying to confuse him on the timing. He said he messed with it and to save his motor it should be set on setting 2 at 34 degrees advanced.
                Too much advance kills especially with street gas.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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