New member, new rider, new bike...figuring it out!

[Dogma]

The "cruiser" look with an inline 4 is fine for some, we really won't hold it against you. Different strokes, after all.
There are other differences - the leading axle forks, smaller rear wheel diameter, smaller fuel tank to name a few. But the core is still a GS, good machines for the day.

Don't forget different bodywork, chrome fenders (no storage under the missing duck tail), smaller chrome headlight bucket, and some minor differences in the wiring harness. Oh, and handlebars that hurt my wrists.

But that's all styling. It's still fun to get out in the twisties.

[scaylabs]

Update

Well, finally got some time this weekend to mess with the bike.
First I removed the tank, and lo and behold, there comes a nice squirt of gas out of the vacuum tube. And there go my $65 for a new OEM petcock . At least, like koolaid said, I'll be hoping for another 28 years of service out of it.

Carbs are out, #1 is already in the dip. @$#! air jet wouldn't come out and the slot is gone so I guess it has become a permanent fixture of the carb body.
#2 is coming apart tonight hopefully, and replacing #1 in the dip.

Intake boots need replacing. #1 and 4 are out but a screw snapped on 4, will be testing the drilling/left handed thread method over the weekend. #2 and 3 are still fighting me, will be buying an Impact Driver today (if I had known these existed and were $10 I would have spent a lot less time swearing on Saturday).

3 out of 8 screws holding the exhaust to the engine are missing, I hope they are not broken off.

[Steve]

Carbs are out, #1 is already in the dip. @$#! air jet wouldn't come out and the slot is gone so I guess it has become a permanent fixture of the carb body.

Not so.

You have a Dremel rotary tool with a large-diameter cut-off wheel? (Doesn't everybody?)

Cut a slot down the length of the tower and cut a new slot in the top of the IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT SCREW (it's NOT an "air screw"), then use a GOOD screwdriver to remove it. If you don't remove it, the o-ring that is now being dissolved around the screw will block passages and give you fits down the road (if you ever make it to the road).





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[scaylabs]

Yeah, I saw your Idle screw removal post when searching on how to remove this stuck air jet, but unfortunately we are talking about different things. I'm calling it an "air jet" because that's what the rebuild guide calls it, but it might be wrong.

Here's what I'm talking about (from the guide):

[hjfisk]

Hey welcome to the slightly off-tilt club of GS owners. I'm also an "L" owner (Luxury Model, BTW), but mine rubbed up against a "G" that I bought as a parts bike and some of it rubbed off on my 'L". Looks like you found a nice bike there with a lot of promise. Once you cure the petcock and carb problems things will get better, especially once you do the valve shims as well. These bikes used to be a well kept secret, and now it's getting out......

And all this time I thought the "L" stood for Ladies model.... still nice looking bike though

[Steve]

Yeah, I saw your Idle screw removal post when searching on how to remove this stuck air jet, but unfortunately we are talking about different things. I'm calling it an "air jet" because that's what the rebuild guide calls it, but it might be wrong.

Nope, you got it (mostly) right.

Full terminology is "pilot air jet", and there should be no problem leaving it in there.

The "pilot fuel jet" is in the bottom of the carb, under the rubber plug, next to the main jet.
Together, they make a pre-set mixture that is then regulated by the previously-mentioned "idle mixture adjustment screw".


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[scaylabs]

Nope, you got it (mostly) right.

Full terminology is "pilot air jet", and there should be no problem leaving it in there.

The "pilot fuel jet" is in the bottom of the carb, under the rubber plug, next to the main jet.
Together, they make a pre-set mixture that is then regulated by the previously-mentioned "idle mixture adjustment screw".

Great, because it wasn't coming out .

I just ordered a new petcock and boots from my local dealer, Palmetto Motorsports in Miami. I'll be picking up the parts, so I don't know how much they charge for shipping, but their prices were quite good (Babbitt's was a bit better but I saved on the shipping):

13110-49100 = Intake Pipe (RH) $27 each
13120-49100 = Intake Pipe (LH) $27 each
44300-45372 = COCK ASSY, FUEL $64

I dealt with Robert, in case anyone wants to give them a shot.

[FreshStart]

shes a suitor. welcome. we love pictures here so would love to se more

[Steve]

13110-49100 = Intake Pipe (RH) $24.22 each
13120-49100 = Intake Pipe (LH) $24.22 each
44300-45372 = COCK ASSY, FUEL $55.99

Available at G&S Suzuki.

Can't see what their shipping charges are without entering credit card info first, but I have ordered from them and seem to remember that they are quite reasonable, certainly less than the $19.13 difference in parts.

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[Don-lo]

Miami? Is that the mystical place that never gets snow? lol

Welcome. Nice bike. Fuel in the oil is very common because BS carbs have no overflow. At least your motor innards are probably nice and shiny now.

The handlebars on your bike have been rotated wayyyy forward. Find the 4 bolts that hold down the handlebars, loosen them, and rotate the bars back until comfy. You may like the difference. You can also swap out the bars.

[scaylabs]

Thank you Freshstart and Don-lo (I thought the handlebars looked funny ). More pictures to come as soon as she is back together.

Steve, thank you for taking the time of looking up the prices. I contacted G&S but they don't have the boots in stock and it would take an extra week shipping. Besides, their Texas to Miami flat shipping fee is $20!!

[scaylabs]

Well, carb #2 is in the dip. The overall condition was much worse than #1, which now seems pristine in comparison.

The kicker? the Needle Valve was MISSING!!! Considering how rusty everything looked inside, it's probably been like that for quite a while. You think that was the cause of my overflow problems? /sarcasm/

Now I've also noticed that the fuel pilot jet's plug was missing on #1 (and in bad shape in #2), is it worth replacing? I'm going to have to place an order for the needle valve anyway, I might just as well order those too.

[Steve]

Now I've also noticed that the fuel pilot jet's plug was missing on #1 (and in bad shape in #2), is it worth replacing? I'm going to have to place an order for the needle valve anyway, I might just as well order those too.

Yes, that rubber plug is MANDATORY, so order up a set of four. Take a look at Parts-n-More. Scroll about half-way down the page in the link, you will see needle and seat assemblies for $8, needle only for $4 and rubber plugs (a package of 5) for $7. Personally, I like to replace the seats if I replace the needles in a set of unknown carbs. Do not get the "carb rebuild kit" that is shown just above the float needles. It is incomplete in that it does not have all the o-rings that you need, you are better off sticking with the o-ring kit from cycleorings.com.

Parts-n-More is in Canada, so it will take a couple extra days to get across the border, but I have never had any problems ordering from them. They do have a $35 minimum order (which this will meet nicely) and a $8 flat-rate shipping charge.

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[tkent02]

And all this time I thought the "L" stood for Ladies model.... still nice looking bike though

It really stands for the "Light in the Loafers" model, but to be polite we call it "Ladies".

[850 Combat]

Suzuki called the L models the "Low Slingers" in the day.

It really looks like you are off to a good start on your repairs. 1100G's have nice low RPM power when they run good, but very linesr and easy to control. There is a lot to like there.