synching question

[Steve]

I use the paperclip method to bench sync. Just gotta be careful not to scratch the bores.

A complication when using an object to gauge the opening is that you have to place it EXACTLY the same place in every one.
Because the opening is an arc, the width of the opening is contantly changing along its length.
I found it is far too easy to have the paper clip move sideways a couple of millimeters.

And then there is that whole thing about trying to find the paper clip I used last time or trying to find another one in the desk drawer.

It's real hard to scratch the bores with a sliver of light.

.

[refeicul]

also found out that there might be another solution to my problem


this is from the motion pro SyncPro manual

Q: One or more fluid columns are not
responsive.
A: This can be caused by a blocked
restrictor. Remove the restrictor from the
vacuum hose and use carburetor cleaner and
compressed air to clean the small orifice.
You should be able to see through the
restrictor if you hold it up to a light source.

[refeicul]

ok im on my garage computer. i took it for a test ride and to warm it up after the bench sync. idled well (1,100 RPM ish) upon take off i noticed it was a slow climb. i dident get a quick response on the throttle till about (4,500 RPM.) it was a little jerkie in between. so i think the majority of that will be fixed with a true sync? i checked the sync tool and found on restrictor was not seated well, but looked clear when i took it out. I checked them all just to be sure. Re seated it and going to try again so bare with me


if you guys have other opinions please dont be shy

[Big T]

Sounds like you're ready for a more accurate sync

[refeicul]

success!!!! wish i knew which one fixed it restricter or the butterfly on #2 but i finally got it. 1 & 4 slighty higher than 2 & 3. gonna test ride it in a bit letting things cool down b4 i take the hose adaptors off. gonna invest in the perminant ones soon. thanks alot guys with out you it would be sold or scraped long ago.


one more thing how the bloody hell do you guys get passed the choke slide thingie with a socket, wrench, or even that carb tool thing???

[1948man]

I think I've read that some loosen up the choke cable bracket assembly and push it out of the way while adjusting #2.

[Steve]

If it is a set of carbs that I have had on the bench, I loosen the locknut so it's not so hard to do while installed.

They don't really need to be Gorilla-torqued.

.

[refeicul]

well just got back from the test ride... and

still not great. i forgot to plug the vacuum line......

well its still a bit jumpy and a bit smoother. but still cant just dump the throttle and expect head kicking goodness

[Steve]

You can't really "dump" the throttle on any of these bikes with "head kicking" results.

You can turn it quickly and get very GOOD results, though.

Is this on your 850?

If so, keep in mind that, except for the fully-faired and luggage-equipped 1100GK, the 850 was the heaviest bike in the GS lineup.
To make things "worse", it probably has the lowest horsepower per displacement of any of the four-cylinder GSes.
It's going to be smooth power at first, but hang on when it crosses 6000 rpm.

.

[refeicul]

yeah........ sigh

well its still not good then.. still laggy in low rpm but the range got shorter. still a bit jumpy or rough but when it catches up top end of the revs

its getting better everytime i take it out.

another quick question. after all the electrical problems were taken care of i rode it and checked the plugs 2 of them had that light browning but still a bit wet. would switching to the hotter plugs help this? im going to get new plugs when i get this syncing down and compare.

i think if i get it i think im going to start a new thread in performance

[Big T]

Nope, stay with the B8ES or equivalent

A "hotter" plug does not burn hotter, it stays hotter

[refeicul]

too bad i dont live closer to you big t cause of the 850 "project" lol

other than that hey i was just quoting the manual it said wet plugs possibly switch to hotter plugs..

another thing i saw mikuni makes generic intake boots anyone ever try them or know someone who has? i know they wouldent work on my bike cause theres no sync port on them but they might work on another project

[Steve]

"Hotter" plugs are only a band-aid to cover up the real problem.

If you are trying to get some "color" on the plugs, get your mixture right.

If the plugs are wet, they are not firing. Fix the firing problem.

What makes a plug "hotter" or "colder" is not how hot it fires, it's more a matter of how well it dissipates the heat that is generated. A "hotter" plug will stay hotter because it has a longer ceramic insulator before the heat reaches the metal body, where it can sink the heat to the head. A "colder" plug has a shorter insulator, which allows heat to get to the head quicker, resulting in a "colder" plug.

Keep the stock plugs, fix the real problem.

.

[refeicul]

well re stet everything up.. im getting use to taking the tank off with it full again. well this time i plugged the vacuum line with the seat pin half way in to make sure the pinhole was well covered. and ya #2 was way highnow everything is as close to textbook as i could get it. we'll see how well it fairs now. nice 30 degree ride with a snowmobile suit

[refeicul]

ok just got back from my 40 mile test ride...

what the hell did you guys let me do... this cant be my bike!

it feels totaly different but in that good warm and squishy way

no more huge power jerks. still a bit rough in the mid range. gonna try one more time things may of shifted when i tightend things up

edit: well i was right things shifted. this time i left it running and connected when i tightened things up. test ride 3