**** I struck oil while drilling out an exhaust stud

[thausen]

In the process of drilling out a broken exhaust stud on my GS 850 I went too deep on one and hit oil....not how I wanted to hit oil ! Am I screwed or can I use JB Weld or Hi Temp sealant around the new stud to fix this ?
Thanks
Todd

[makenzie71]

Repair the threads as planned. When you go to reinstall a new stud, wrap it with thread sealing tape and put a decent glob of silicon on the end of the bolt.

[thausen]

stud

Thank God....didnt want to go through getting the head off and replacing it.

[Steve]

I'm not sure what the working temperature of "thread-sealing tape" is, but I have a feeling that it won't hold up to the exhaust port temps.

I would also be EXTREMELY hesitant to put silicone on the end of the bolt, then screw it into the hole.
If you have more silicone than there is room, you might just force it through the hole, into the oil passage, possibly blocking it off.

.

[chuck hahn]

Bike..year..model...I agree Steve, Half measures avail is nothing.

[Datsa Noydb]

I looked up the MSDS for Teflon tape and saw this:


Do not use in applications where the temperature is expected to exceed 500° F (260° C) .

and this:

If the service temperature exceeds 750 ° F (399° C), then PTFE will begin to undergo thermal decomposition.

[makenzie71]

I didn't think of temperature. They make high temp thread compounds.

[koolaid_kid]

Yes, use a high-temp thread sealing compound. It usually comes in a tube, and is very gritty to the touch.
Something along this order, but be sure and check the temp rating:
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CDcQ8gIwBg#

[chef1366]

I'd get it welded and retapped.
I think the heads coming off
OR
It may leak or it may not. Why chance it?

[cowboyup3371]

I'd like to agree with what's been told with you on the other threads - might as well take your engine apart. It'll save you the headache in the future and might just make it easier to work on.

[Mekanix]

Shot in the dark here...

Drill

Tap

Insert small (height wise) allen screw all the way to the back and then use a shorter stud.

Did you drill into an oil passage or just the valley where oil collects on the head?


Recommend at least taking the valve cover off and checking for metal shavings and going from there.

[chuck hahn]

It doesnt matter where the drill punctured. If he doest PERMANENTLY and 100% seal the bottom of the whole it doesnt matter what he shoves in behind the exhaust stud..its still gonna weep and **** all over the front of the engine. It has to be taken off and the hole where it came thru welded permanently shut. Thats the only 100% sure way that will ever be repaired correctly. I understand he wants someone to tell him that a wad of chewing gum is gonna fix eveything but its time to get out of lala land.

[kdo58]

I had a engine where a rod had put a small whole in the side the block and a machine shop used epoxy to fill the whole and I have had no problems with it. this was a car motor.

[Jason the terminator]

I would get some HTS 2000 and repair it myself.

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/

[Steve]

I had a engine where a rod had put a small whole in the side the block and a machine shop used epoxy to fill the whole and I have had no problems with it. this was a car motor.

If I had a car motor in my GS, I might try that too, but ...

Besides, the side of the car block is not pressurized, so it's not much of a problem.
Until thausen removes the head to see what he drilled into, he won't know if it's a pressurized oil feed gallery or merely a collection point.

.