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    Stuck Intake Boot Screws

    Ok, so I tried to do a search and I couldn't pinpoint a thread with tips on how to remove the intake boot screws that are stuck in the head. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't really have enough room to swing a hammer for my Impact driver. I bought the Hex-type bolts to replace them, but I want to get some advice, words of wisdom and suggestions on how to remove the stuck cross-head screws.

    I'm currently dipping my carbs to rebuild them and want to be sure I can get the the intake boots off to replace the bolts when I am in need of changing the boots.

    Thanks in advance!

    -Gumbo

    #2
    Get some PB Blaster or your favorite solvent for loosening bolts and spray them for a few days. I had to end up using a small pair of vice-grip needle nose pliers to grab the head of the screw. Once you get one side out, you can rotate the boot counterclockwise to loosen up the one you can't reach, it should come out with a screwdriver at that point. Of course, be careful not to rip the head of the screw off with to much gorilla force, just work it back and forth until it comes loose.
    Larry D
    1980 GS450S
    1981 GS450S
    2003 Heritage Softtail

    Comment


      #3
      Use a Vise-grip, than replace with SS

      Comment


        #4
        PB Blaster

        I've got the PB Blaster on there right now. I'll spray again this morning and then try later in the day.

        So the Vice grips, eh? Scary stuff. I'll give it a try and PRAY that I don't break anything!

        Thanks Gentlemen!

        Anyone else have any ideas? I heard someone on here saying something about freezing the Exhaust header bolts. Would something like that work for these screws too? I'd just be worried about causing damage to the Rubber Boots...

        Comment


          #5
          I second the vise-grip! I used the longer, needle-nose style. Clamp on, and apply slow, STEADY pressure to them. I actually used the vice-grips AND a screw-driver (Snap-On) and turned them at the same time, apply steadily increasing pressure. Also helps to use a 2x4 piece between the frame and the screwdriver handle to force the screwdriver up into the phillips head.

          Replacing all of this with stainless steel socket-head cap screws was some of the best advice people have given. Do that with the carbs as well!

          Good Luck!

          Comment


            #6
            I ground the heads off with an angle grinder, then used vice-grips to remove the studs. Of course, I already had bought new intake tubes.

            The studs came out pretty easily. I suspect the heat or vibration from the grinder loosened them up. You might try some heat to go with the PB Blaster.
            1982 GS1100GL Citrus County, FL

            a rare outsider and was only built until 1983. Who still has one, it gives her so little.

            Comment


              #7
              I sprayed mine a couple times a day for 2 days with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. 3 of the 4 popped right off. 4th one stripped, but vise grips got it out no problem.

              Comment


                #8
                Make sure you're using a #3 philips head, not a #2. I saw what you said about room for a hammer, but the quality of the bits is paramount. The Craftsman impact driver contains excellent bits. I was able to remove most screws using it without ever touching it with a hammer - even ones I looked at and said "no way that's getting grabbed by this as boogered as that head is".

                Odd that nobody mentioned to try cutting a slot in them with a Dremel and try a flat-head screwdriver.

                Once you get one screw out, you can turn the boots themselves to help loosen the other.

                Put anti-seize on those SS replacements' threads before you install 'em to prevent galling of the threads.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Many impact drivers will allow you to use a 1/2" extension to extend your reach to the screws. Of course you will need a long extension but something to consider. This trick helped on a couple of my bikes.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also, what seemed to help, IF you were able to get one of the screws for a boot off, you can use some channel locks on the base of the intake (be careful if you are re-using them) and give it a little rotation. I rotated mine back and forth a bit and that seemed to help a lot.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I second the use of a Dremel and a flat-bladed screwdriver or chisel.
                      Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                      1981 GS550T - My First
                      1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                      2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                      Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                      Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                      and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thank you all!

                        OMG! You guys are awesome! This is why I love this forum so much! Great advice from all of you! So, I drenched the screws with PB Blaster for a couple of days. Then I used the Impact Driver with the #3 screwdriver bit. All I did was use the driver as I would a normal screw driver and was able to get all but one screw out with such ease! The only one I couldn't get out with this method, the p.o. had stripped the head completely. So I pulled out the Dremmel and grinding wheel and gave myself a nice flathead groove and was able to get the screw out with about as much ease as the rest of them! Awesome!

                        THANK YOU very much gentlemen!

                        -Gumbo

                        Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
                        Make sure you're using a #3 philips head, not a #2. I saw what you said about room for a hammer, but the quality of the bits is paramount. The Craftsman impact driver contains excellent bits. I was able to remove most screws using it without ever touching it with a hammer - even ones I looked at and said "no way that's getting grabbed by this as boogered as that head is".

                        Comment

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