Replaced my petcock

[Guest]

Gas seemed to be getting into the oil on my GS550E so I decided to replace the petcock. I ordered a Suzuki petcock, bolts and washers from PartShark (and a gasket / o-ring but the petcock came with one already). I removed and drained the tank. I was surprised it took maybe 1-1.5 hrs. I'm not sure what I was expecting but next time I'll have a better plan to rig something up so I don't have to sit there holding a hose to the petcock. Or have less gas in the tank...

The tank surface under the petcock seemed somewhat rippled. I assume this is just from the gas contacting the paint and is normal. Should I have sanded that down or done something else?


When attaching the new petcock, the bolts never got to the point where I couldn't turn them anymore but it seemed "tight enough" (I hope). I put some gas in the tank and so far no leaks. My next step is to change the oil before starting it up to see if it the new petcock works.

Here's the old petcock:


And the new petcock:



I know this is a trivial procedure but it was the first thing I've done to the bike so I'm glad it went fairly smoothly.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

A new petcock and no leaks, you can't ask for more than that. Good work!

Nice pictures too.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuckycheese]

Bolts

If the bolts didn't get tight, I'd be very concerned (and wonder why) but, the only thing that matters is that it doesn't leak....so, keep your eye on it and maybe you're fine. Hope so!

[hikermikem]

New petcocks are pretty much standard procedure on our old bikes...

Since you asked, I'll throw my $0.02 in.

- The bottom of the tank around the large hole where the petcock seals should be clean, flat & free from loose paint & such before you install the new petcock. That o-ring gasket is designed to seal against the metal, not loose paint. Fuel may work its way under the loose paint past the o-ring eventually.

- Those mounting bolts should snug right up... perhaps the holes are getting stripped or you used the wrong size bolts? Looks like you used new ones, did the old ones tighten properly?

- Just wondering if you removed the fuel cap when draining the tank - 1.5 hrs is a VERY long time for a tank to drain.

Good it doesn't leak now, but I'd keep an eye on it.

Mike

[scott]

A new petcock and no leaks, you can't ask for more than that.

Well as of this morning, things are still dry around the petcock.

- The bottom of the tank around the large hole where the petcock seals should be clean, flat & free from loose paint & such before you install the new petcock. That o-ring gasket is designed to seal against the metal, not loose paint. Fuel may work its way under the loose paint past the o-ring eventually.

Yeah, when I saw that close-up picture it definitely made me question it (of course, this is after I had the tank back on the bike with some gas). Is there a recommended way to prepare that area? Steel wool or sand paper or ?

If the bolts didn't get tight, I'd be very concerned (and wonder why)

- Those mounting bolts should snug right up... perhaps the holes are getting stripped or you used the wrong size bolts? Looks like you used new ones, did the old ones tighten properly?

The old bolts seemed to be on there fairly tight when I removed the petcock but I didn't try them on the new petcock. The new bolts and washers were ordered from Partshark (from the fiche with the petcock) so I assume they're the correct size. I actually ordered an extra bolt and washer so I took a closer look this morning - the thread spacing and length looks similar BUT the top of the new bolts are not threaded. Also, the new washers have an inner rubber piece whereas the old washers do not. I assume the un-threaded portion is to match up with the rubber insert of the washer and reduce the chance of a leak. Could this be the reason it doesn't get as tight? In case it's not obvious, the new bolt and washer is on the left, the 2 old bolts are on the right (the old washers are stuck on the old petcock pretty good). You can't really see the inner rubber part of the washer.


I'm not sure how to quantify how tight the new bolts got - I can only say that using a socket wrench I could still turn it if I tried. I was trying not to turn too hard but maybe I started stripping the holes by trying to get it too tight? I'm concerned that if I take the petcock off to prepare the tank surface that I may make things worse. I assume if I stripped the hole, there isn't an easy solution. Also, should I have used something like Loctite?

- Just wondering if you removed the fuel cap when draining the tank - 1.5 hrs is a VERY long time for a tank to drain.

Ah! No, I didn't know I was supposed to do that - ha, well that will definitely be useful to know for next time.

Thanks for all the information / help guys.

[SVSooke]

Yeah you got to love shiny new ones

Picked mine up yesterday.Some guy localy bought it and then fixed his old one.Sold the bike and put this up for $55.I took it

[scott]

Picked mine up yesterday.Some guy localy bought it and then fixed his old one.Sold the bike and put this up for $55.I took it

Good deal - more than $20 less than I paid (not including shipping).

[hikermikem]

Hey scott,

If it aint leaking then don't fret. Run your hand/fingers around it every now & then and check for gas...

It's easy to strip those tank holes with the leverage of a socket wrench - it's most likely tighter than you think.

Those washers with the rubber seal on the ID are the right ones, keeps the fuel from leaking down the bolt threads. Sounds like the ones you took off were just flat washers.

I usually just scrape the flaking paint off with a putty knife or wire brush the area clean witha rotary brass brush in my hand drill - makes a nice clean surface for the o-ring to seal against.

Enjoy your bike!

[SVSooke]

Good deal - more than $20 less than I paid (not including shipping).

Include shipping to Canada and yeah I'm very happy.Actually my wife bought it for me,she's the best

[scott]

If it aint leaking then don't fret. Run your hand/fingers around it every now & then and check for gas...

I usually just scrape the flaking paint off with a putty knife or wire brush the area clean witha rotary brass brush in my hand drill - makes a nice clean surface for the o-ring to seal against.

Good to know. I'll be sure to keep my eye on it and now I have a plan if I notice a leak developing.