I broke it...

[Vantreeseba]

I managed to overtighten the plastic screws holding in the choke slide piece on my gs450l carbs, I've got some pictures.

I was mostly just wondering if anyone actually knew what they were called and where I could get some new ones.

Oh yea, and how the heck am I supposed to get them out now?

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Vantreeseba,

Check our favorite OEM vendors for replacement parts. There are also a few vendors listed in your "mega-welcome" that deal specifically with carb parts. Such as:

Sudco International - Carburetor parts, Classic & Late Model Replacement & Performance Parts, etc.
http://www.sudco.com/ (http://www.sudco.com/oemcarbparts.html)
MotorcycleCarbs.com - Carburetor parts, etc.
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/index.cfm
Jets R Us - Carburetor parts, filters, gauges, etc.

http://www.jetsrus.com/

I'll let someone else speak to the extraction issue. But let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[JEEPRUSTY]

A very small long handled flatblade screw driver used as a drift migth work. But that would risk ruiing the threads.

If I had nothing to lose I would heat the brass plunger till the plastinc melted and pull it out.
You can wrap a cloth around the shaft to prevent damage.

[7981GS]

Try a steel pick tool to break little pieces off and out without damaging the threads.
As to new ones, introduce yourself on this forum and you will receive ALL of the links that you could possibly need from Basscliff.

See! He made RECORD time, this time.

Daniel

[SqDancerLynn1]

It's plastic, should come out very easy. Should be able to turn it with a screwdriver. As to a replacement ? It is only available as an assembly. Some one here may have an extra

[chuck hahn]

DONT heat the pluinger..theres a little rubber end that seats against the bottom..dont damage that. I would take a flat tip and go across the rim at a 90 degree and split it down and then collapse one side into the other and remove the plastic with the threads.

[spchips]

Anyone know if the older style brass ones with the rubber seal have the same dimensions?? These might be easier and keep you from breaking them in the future.

I have a few if they cross over.

[chuck hahn]

may even be able to take the flat tip and a hammer and use the screwdrivere to unthread the plastic ring back out..angle the blade and tap it around backwards till you an use some pliers to finish inscrewing it.

[laserred97gt]

I've got a spare one I'll send you for free. PM me your address.

[Vantreeseba]

Thanks for all the tips, I ended up carefully whacking the crap out of it with a tiny punch to knock the plastic stuff out of the way after crazy glue ended up not working sadly...

I bought another full set of carbs, as I needed to gut some other pieces as well (a few jets and little stuff) for only 40 bucks, so it was actually cheaper than getting everything I needed online (especially since the cv slides are both in great shape still). Which also had the brass fitted choke assemblies

I do still have a question though, if I don't have the airfilter in my airbox, but the boots seem tight, and the intake boots seem pretty good as well, should the bike at least start?

I just got done dipping the carbs, and cleaning everything up via the links provided in my super big welcome. I will admit that I did NOT replace the o rings , but they seemed pretty pliable still (i did spritz them with some gas as well to try to swell them up). I've already ordered the o-ring kit, just wondering if a small vacuum leak or the air filter not being in the airbox would keep it from starting completely.

It DOES start if I put my hand over the carb intake (where the boot would be) and force it to have a strong vacuum, but not otherwise... and it dies after being in idle for about 2 seconds.

[refeicul]

i would say no. CV carbs need the restriction, thats why it starts when your hand is over it. a lot of this was in the mega welcome that cliff sent but heres a link to the carb theory http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm


for these types of carb your airbox really should be sealed like here http://picasaweb.google.com/roostabu...50AirboxFixup#

i was anxious to get my bike on the road too and still am. a bit patience and double or triple checking maybe in order

also make sure the intake boots are soft, and not cracking or separating if so replace them and if you do that youll need new o-rings for said boots