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A little of this, a little of that - a puzzle

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    A little of this, a little of that - a puzzle

    Here’s the parts of the puzzle:

    As bought from the PO, my 1980 GS850G had a V-H 4-1 exhaust, and non-K&N pod filters. It would fire up at a touch of the start button, needing only a little choke if it was cold. Idle was smooth, and acceleration was smooth and quick – but only up to about 5k rpm. Then it would flatten out, and could not be pushed beyond 5500 rpm at all.

    From all my reading and research, certainly sounded like a carb setup issue. I have finally got a chance to tear into the carbs now, and here’s what I have found:

    Carbs were fairly clean, with no evidence of plugged passages or crud. Carb #1 had that broken-and-glued float pin post, but I think that was working ok until I touched it during teardown. I also found the following deviations from stock:

    Main jets - #140 (#115 is stock);
    Pilot jets are #20 (#40 is stock)
    Jet needles are NOT stock as they have the multiple clip positions and the clips are in the third slot from the top. MIGHT be Dynojet needles – setup is per Dynojet instructions?

    “Air correctors” have been put in the passages, like what is described in the Dynojet Stage 3 instructions?

    The replacement #1 carb I bought from another member here does NOT have the ‘air corrector’ installed – that was my first hint mine were different.


    The slides lift holes have been drilled – again, like the Dynojet instructions. I know that because the drilling job was crappy. The lift hole looks ok from the bottom, but from inside, you can tell they weren’t careful. I don’t know if those oval holes will adversely affect performance.



    So it looks like someone did a half-assed Dynojet conversion.

    I was considering return to stock exhaust and air box (and have those parts), but with what I see in the carbs, I’m considering staying with the 4-1, getting K&N pods and getting the full Dynojet Stage 3 kit, because I can’t reverse the modifications to the slide lift holes, and the ‘air corrector’ inserts.

    What say the carb gurus?
    Last edited by Guest; 04-23-2011, 01:48 PM.

    #2
    More to the point - for the carburetor experts, I would have the following specific questions:

    1) Do the symptoms I had match the jetting and jet needle setting? If the Dynojet 3 kit comes with main jets that are 155, 160 & 165, it looks like the 140 main jet is/was not large enough?
    2) Is the poor drilling job in the slides a concern?
    3) Does anyone know if I can buy just those main jets and one air corrector insert, without buying the entire kit?

    Comment


      #3
      1) Do the symptoms I had match the jetting and jet needle setting? If the Dynojet 3 kit comes with main jets that are 155, 160 & 165, it looks like the 140 main jet is/was not large enough?
      I would suggest plug chops when you hit your 5500 rpm limit to see what is happening at that time.
      Is that a Mikuni or a DJ jet? Look for the concentric squares for the Mikuni trademark.
      A 140 DJ is about a 131.5 Mikuni, which is about what I would expect for pods and a pipe, but if that's a 140 Mikuni, that's about the same as a 150 DJ.

      2) Is the poor drilling job in the slides a concern?
      No.

      3) Does anyone know if I can buy just those main jets and one air corrector insert, without buying the entire kit?
      No clue about that one, you will have to call and find out.


      Just one final comment ... that's a fine-looking replacement carb body you have there.

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      Comment


        #4
        1) Do the symptoms I had match the jetting and jet needle setting? If the Dynojet 3 kit comes with main jets that are 155, 160 & 165, it looks like the 140 main jet is/was not large enough?
        I would suggest plug chops when you hit your 5500 rpm limit to see what is happening at that time. OK - I'll put them back together with what I have, and the plug chops will have to wait until it's running again.
        Is that a Mikuni or a DJ jet? Look for the concentric squares for the Mikuni trademark. No Mikuni marking on any of the jets. The needle jet IS marked with the concentric squares.
        A 140 DJ is about a 131.5 Mikuni, which is about what I would expect for pods and a pipe, but if that's a 140 Mikuni, that's about the same as a 150 DJ.

        2) Is the poor drilling job in the slides a concern?
        No.

        3) Does anyone know if I can buy just those main jets and one air corrector insert, without buying the entire kit?
        No clue about that one, you will have to call and find out.


        Just one final comment ... that's a fine-looking replacement carb body you have there. Yeah, I thought so too. Nice price too!

        Comment


          #5
          You can buy main jets at Z-1 enterprises. Not sure about the air corrector but you might get that at Sudco. They're real friendly at Z-1 and could probably tell you what main jets come with a Dynojet kit for your bike. Like Steve said, make sure you make the conversion from Dyno to Mikuni before you get jets. Does the condition get worse or better after the bike gets fully warm? Dynojet Tech support advised me that it is usually a lean condition if it improves when warm or rich if it gets worse as it warms up.
          1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
          1983 GS 1100 G
          2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
          2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
          1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

          I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the tips. I'll check with both companies. Since the bike ran well otherwise, I think the setup is close but only the plug chops will tell. If I go to K&N pods, it will change a bit anyway.

            The symptoms only improved very slightly once it was warmed up.

            Comment

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