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    #16
    Originally posted by 850 Combat View Post
    Third carb from the right is two, if I understand your post correctly. Rich on two can be a sign of fuel in the vacuum line from the petcock, which indicates a bad petcock. I have not experienced this particular failure mode myself.

    You should verify that there is no fuel in the petcock vacuum line.

    That said, you will more than likely also end up cleaning the carbs to get rid of the part throttle lean condition eventually.
    which one is the vacuum line and is it worth completely blanking the plug off and if so what do i watch out for once done ?

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      #17
      Originally posted by janner View Post
      which one is the vacuum line and is it worth completely blanking the plug off and if so what do i watch out for once done ?
      also what are the symptoms when there is fuel in the vac line ? sorry for all the questions but i am new to the gs range and have always had modern bikes and 2 strokes

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        #18
        This shows you where your rubber hoses go to:



        #2 has the vacuum nipple. If you blank it off (hose with bolt stuffed in it as a temp) you'll have to switch the fuel tap to run on prime.

        Did your old oil smell of petrol? You might have your carbs leaking petrol into the crankcase - thus thinning the oil and making the rattle louder.
        79 GS1000S
        79 GS1000S (another one)
        80 GSX750
        80 GS550
        80 CB650 cafe racer
        75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
        75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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          #19
          Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
          This shows you where your rubber hoses go to:



          #2 has the vacuum nipple. If you blank it off (hose with bolt stuffed in it as a temp) you'll have to switch the fuel tap to run on prime.

          Did your old oil smell of petrol? You might have your carbs leaking petrol into the crankcase - thus thinning the oil and making the rattle louder.
          funny it did smell stale and petrolly !!! what are the symptoms though if the petcocks leaking ?

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            #20
            Originally posted by janner View Post
            funny it did smell stale and petrolly !!! what are the symptoms though if the petcocks leaking ?
            Worst case scenario is hydraulic lock and bent rods!!! In your case it maybe suggests that fuel has dribbled in to the carbs when she's been stood and made it's way down in to the crankcase.

            When the engine is running petrol can get sucked down the vacuum tube in to the carb on the head side of the slide. This cylinder will run very rich as a result.
            79 GS1000S
            79 GS1000S (another one)
            80 GSX750
            80 GS550
            80 CB650 cafe racer
            75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
            75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by janner View Post
              also what are the symptoms when there is fuel in the vac line ? sorry for all the questions but i am new to the gs range and have always had modern bikes and 2 strokes
              The two most common symptoms of a bad petcock are

              1. #2 plug fouls with gas
              2. Gas in the oil

              Sound familiar?

              So, cap the vent at the carb and run your bike on Prime and see if it doesn't get a whole lot better.


              And, please update the signature in your profile with your bike model and year. Then, we always know what bike you're talking about (see mine or 850's)
              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
              2007 DRz 400S
              1999 ATK 490ES
              1994 DR 350SES

              Comment


                #22
                Hi,

                These are 30 year old machines. They need maintenance. From your "mega-welcome", here's the drill:

                Common issues:

                1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
                2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
                3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
                4. Carb/airbox boots
                5. Airbox sealing
                6. Air filter sealing
                7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
                8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
                9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
                10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.

                What I have noticed at the rallies is that very, very few 850Gs are actually running right. Make VERY sure it's actually running the way it's supposed to before busting out the modifications.


                Brian's E-Z and fun plan for GS happiness:

                1) Seal the airbox and air filter with weatherstripping.

                2) Ensure no intake leaks. Spraying WD-40 or water doesn't tell you much, since very small air leaks can cause problems even though they won't suck in enough WD-40 to make a difference. Replace your intake boot o-rings and boots if needed, and seriously consider spending the lousy $28 for new airbox/carb boots.

                3) Ensure clean carbs with correct settings, new o-rings, and original OEM jets. No, not just squirted with something. I mean completely disassembled.

                4) Check/adjust valve clearances (Manual calls for every 4,000 miles. This is not optional.)

                5) Ensure healthy electrical system.

                6) Seriously consider upgrading coils and plug wires.

                7) Install new, stock NGK B8-ES plugs gapped to .031".

                8 ) Fine-tune float height and idle mixture screw to ensure best off-idle transition.

                9) Clean air filter and reinstall with only the lightest oil mist -- over-oiling and/or letting the filter get dirty is a common and critical mistake, and will make the bike run funny at low speeds and run rich. This may take a few tries.

                10) Make sure the exhaust seals are sealing.

                11) Ooh, much better now, huh? You're gonna need upgraded suspension - Progressive or better fork springs and shocks. Set suspension sag appropriately.

                12) Upgrade brakes with new pads and stainless lines to deal with all that extra speed.

                13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem.

                14) Oh yeah -- check compression somewhere in there to ensure the valves and rings are reasonably healthy.

                15) You'll probably need new OEM clutch springs -- the clutches last forever, but the springs get tired after 20 years or so under pressure. E-Z and cheap.

                All of these issues must be addressed to ensure a safe and reliable motorcycle. Any shortcuts will lead you straight to frustration.


                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

                Comment


                  #23
                  O ring kit ordered from states Robert Barr, also bought stainless fasteners and intake o rings , so , its off with them there bloody carbs and do as others have before me and reap the rewards !!. I may be needing advice and inspiration, so be warned

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