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**tkent02** · 04-29-2011, 09:52 PM

Loosen the throttle cable.

**tom203** · 04-30-2011, 07:17 AM

Originally posted by dj3671 View Post

Hey, my bike was starting, but throttle was janky, so I replaced the throttle tube and it now feels correct. Tried to start bike but it wouldnt fire so I started adjusting the throttle stop screw. The bike had previously only stayed running with choke on, the choke was really hard to pull so I loosened it up a bit. Bike wont start and I dont know where to set the throttle stop screw.

What I know:
THe carb is getting fuel (unscrewed plug on bottom of float bowl to make sure)
My plugs are getting spark (checked)
It sounds like it's about to fire when try to start but never does....
Bike still wont start......
Any suggestions? I was thinking it has to do with the throttle stop screw not being set correctly, but I am a nooby at this so im not sure. I would also appreciate any tips on how far in to set the throttle stop screw.

Thank You Very Much

Put bike model/year in your signature, so later posts will be easier to follow.
For now, leave throttle stop screw (located between #2 and#3 carb on airbox side) alone till bike starts on "choke" -this is actually a fuel enrichment device, not a plate that blocks air intake. Make sure when you activate choke that it's actually wotking at carbs ends- a rod slides on engine side of carbs, which you can see. My bike needs full "choke" to start quickly and then I can reduce it so rpm doesn't shoot up too much. The throttle stop screw won't be doing much when choke is in operation at start up. Use prime position on petcock valve to ensure adequate fuel delivery. Review Basscliff's mega-welcome for common problems.Is this bike new to you?

**Redman** · 04-30-2011, 11:32 AM

Originally posted by dj3671 View Post

Hey, my bike was starting, but throttle was janky, so I replaced the throttle tube and it now feels correct. Tried to start bike but it wouldnt fire so I started adjusting the throttle stop screw. The bike had previously only stayed running with choke on, the choke was really hard to pull so I loosened it up a bit. Bike wont start and I dont know where to set the throttle stop screw.

What I know:
THe carb is getting fuel (unscrewed plug on bottom of float bowl to make sure)
My plugs are getting spark (checked)
It sounds like it's about to fire when try to start but never does....
Bike still wont start......
Any suggestions? I was thinking it has to do with the throttle stop screw not being set correctly, but I am a nooby at this so im not sure. I would also appreciate any tips on how far in to set the throttle stop screw.

Thank You Very Much

Janky?

THrottle Tube?

THrottle stop screw (idle set) will not cause these problems. It is just so you do not have to hold the throttle, so it doesnt go to low, thats all, doesnt reallyh effect anything in the carbs, it just holds the throttle position for you.

You mentioned tht previously that it would only run with choke on. That right there is a pretty bad situation, indicating that something really already needed some attention (even back then). Most probably carbs need to be taken off, and apart and a good cleaning (and maybe replace orings). See the "Carb Cleaning Searies" back on GSR home page.
Now you have gone from bad to worse.

.

**dj3671** · 04-30-2011, 09:43 PM

Thanks guys, especially for the info on the throtle stop. On my 78 moped that little guy did a whole lot lol. This bike is fairly new to me, ive taken the carb off and cleaned it. Not fully however, because I cant get the pins out of the floats

I took it apart, except for the floats and let it soak in gas for a day along with rigerous air pressure cleaning. The bike started after cleaning out the carb.

OH and yes the choke pulls on the slide so I know that is working properly.
Any tips on getting those pesky pins off the floats would also be great

I am afraid to use too much force on them in fear of breaking the blocks.

And its a 1982 GS650GLZ :P

**Steve** · 04-30-2011, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by dj3671 View Post

Any tips on getting those pesky pins off the floats would also be great

I am afraid to use too much force on them in fear of breaking the blocks.

And its a 1982 GS650GLZ :P

Very smart move to be cautious and ASK instead of forcing them, then asking how to FIX.

Have you read through BassCliff's welcome? Have you browsed his website?
There are pages there that are specifically dedicated to pivot pin removal, and there are a few ways that work.

One of the favorites is to use a small socket, maybe about 7 or 8mm, set it on the bench. Turn the carb on its side, put the end of the pin over the socket, rest the side of the "block" on the edge of the socket, use a pin punch to tap the pin out.

The method I use is a pair of 6" Channel-loc pliers. Straddle the two "blocks", but only press on the small end of the pin. A small squeeze will get the pin past the friction point with no drama.

.

**JCSkokos** · 04-30-2011, 10:29 PM

I did the same as Steve, but I used an ice pick and a hammer.

**Redman** · 04-30-2011, 10:57 PM

404 Not Found

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

**Nessism** · 04-30-2011, 11:29 PM

**dj3671** · 05-01-2011, 12:04 AM

As always, thanks all, and yea I read thru those when I had the carb apart, Still no dice with those methods. Ill give the socket method another try once I get the carb off...again :P
But the comment about loosening the throttle cable seemed to help, it makes a lower throaty noise when attempting to start instead of just the high pitched wine of the starter. Ive been tugging (without excessive force) the choke manually instead of using the "custom" choke assembled by the previous owner......
"custom" made meaning Jerry Rigged, for a lack of a better term.
its actually justa peice of wire wrapped in a tight spring haha
(it does the job but almost breaks ones arm pulling it)

Im going to double, triple, check the plugs to ensure im still getting spark. They have a lot of carbon buildup and probably just need replaced.

**1_v8_merc** · 05-01-2011, 02:01 AM

If you want to check spark, there's an easy way, without using a Voltmeter.

All you need to do is remove the spark plug, and drip 1 or 2 drops of gasoline down the hole, re-tighten the spark plug quickly.

----

Do that to all 4 cylinders.

Then start the bike.

If you have spark, the bike will fire up for a second or so, then cut out.

Which means the problem is from the Carburetor back....

ONLY use 1 or 2 drops!!! No more!

I use a straw and a small glass jar with gas for this test.

**JimWilling** · 05-01-2011, 03:17 AM

Perhaps I misread something. Did you dip the carbs with the floats still attached?

**dj3671** · 05-01-2011, 07:22 PM

Plugs are good, and sadly yes I did dip with floats attached. (probably not my smoothest move)

But I ALMOST got it started. I know its igniting, just wont actaully start. I loosened the throttle cable more, removed the throttle stop screw for now, and now it fires with the choke OFF, when it's trying to start it seems like it's getting too much gas and flooding. When I try to start it, it fires but wont actially start (if that makes sense) It gets closer to starting when on reserve.
When I try and start it, it fires so I had been giving it a little gas: sometimes this helped it and sometimes it stopped the firing, like it was flooded.
Has anybody else experienced this sudden "flooding"?

Bad news is I cant work on it until next weekend

damm school....

**tom203** · 05-02-2011, 06:08 PM

Originally posted by dj3671 View Post

Plugs are good, and sadly yes I did dip with floats attached. (probably not my smoothest move)

But I ALMOST got it started. I know its igniting, just wont actaully start. I loosened the throttle cable more, removed the throttle stop screw for now, and now it fires with the choke OFF, when it's trying to start it seems like it's getting too much gas and flooding. When I try to start it, it fires but wont actially start (if that makes sense) It gets closer to starting when on reserve.
When I try and start it, it fires so I had been giving it a little gas: sometimes this helped it and sometimes it stopped the firing, like it was flooded.
Has anybody else experienced this sudden "flooding"?

Bad news is I cant work on it until next weekend

damm school....

If you didn't remove the floats, did you remove the jets and blow out all the tiny orifices that get fuel to " choke" and idle sytems. When you activate "choke", do not use throttle or you will be defeating the fuel enrichment feature- of course, you need clean passages for the system to work. Take out a spark plug to determine if it's "flooding" - my quess is the opposite.

**janner** · 05-02-2011, 06:57 PM

Hi there, i,m new here too, but from what I know from other bkes I have and have stripped and restored, it dosent sound like your getting the fuel through to the plugs, as you were relying on choke to run before, my guess is your idle jets are blocked and wil need a clean and also check out the petcock to make sure its behaving itself too, you also said the plugs get gummed up !! that could be low compression due to worn rings allowing too much oil pass, run a compression check and do the usual check , you,ll get there, i,m about to strip my carbs too, so your not on your own , were all brothers together here... good luck

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