Wes Cooley Carb Rebuild

[Vmass]

OK.... I have taken your advice to get a stock air box and rebuild the carbs. I found a stock air box from a member ( check is in the mail, thanks).

I would love to get some recommendations on what rebuild kits to buy as well as tools etc.

This is my first ever carb rebuild.

The bike has a 4 into 1 Vance and Hines pipe which will remain.

Will I buy stock rebuild kits and jets. I know nothing about this stuff.

Should be fun!!
<a href="http://s1187.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSC00665.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC00665.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Nessism]

cycleorings.com sells rebuild kits. If you need gaskets and such consider z1 Enterprises. The rebuild tutorial is linked on the GSR homepage, in the Garage section - or on basscliff's web site (do a search). You might want to consider a Dynojet kit since the exhaust is not stock, but if you have the airbox you might not need much other than some bigger main jets. I suggest taking a close inventory of the jet numbers when you tear down the carbs so see what's in there, then compare to the stock jets as documented in the factory service manual. The bike may already have different jetting and that is a good way to figure out what's been done already.

Good luck

[Vmass]

I will go on the assumption that the carbs I have are original and stock.

Being my first carb rebuild, and since the bike has been sitting for ten years, I should order every gasket available fo reach card, yes?

[Nessism]

First off, don't assume anything regarding what some PO monkey could have done to your bike. Check and verify.

You might need carb bowl gaskets and pilot jet plugs. That's about it, other than maybe some jets. It's best to keep the stock brass parts inside the carbs, just clean them.

One other thing is to make sure you support the float post before you hammer out the pin. This detail is not captured in the GSR carb rebuild series.

Oh, and make sure you have a screwdriver that fits TIGHTLY in the pilot jet and pilot screw slots. Hand grind an old screwdriver if you have to until it fits tight or you may strip these screws (common newbie mistake).

[Octain]

In addition, I might recommend removing the rack from the bike. Set em on the bench. A good dose of PB Blaster to every threaded part in/on the carbs several times a day for at least a day or so.
Like Ness said use GOOD fitting tools. This is really important. Test fit em before ya torque em loose. You'll kick your self in the butt if ya round off any of those soft brass jets ect. Especially the pilot jet.
I'd replace all the gaskets and the pilot plugs, just because.

Take your time.. One carb at a time so you can use the next one for reference if needed.

Ask lots of questions!!

[Vmass]

Thanks for the tips, keep them coming.

Great tip...
"One carb at a time so you can use the next one for reference if needed."

[Nessism]

Another tip...

Scribe each carb with a number so you don't scratch your head later figuring out where each one fits on the rack.

Regarding one at a time, I don't bother. The only parts that really need to stay with their mate are the float needle and seat. Everything else is interchangeable so I don't bother to organize any more than necessary. And even though it seems like there are a lot of parts, don't worry. The carbs are actually very simple and you can't put them together wrong other than maybe skipping steps like checking the float height.