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    Plug Chop question

    My bike has been sluggish (lean?) around 3-4k in all gears but mostly noticeable 3-5th gear. I first adjusted idle with the high rev method, then did a plug chop. The idle went ok; I noticed #2 was best at all the way down, but did adjust so I dont think the tip is broken off.
    The plug chop: I ran the bike in all gears at the trouble spot and then killed it after 5 minutes or so. #1 and #4 where tan and dry. #2 was tan but wet. And #3 was dry but super black and sooty.

    So, could you all help decipher this puzzle. I think I get #2, the air mixture screw is all the way down, thus more fuel in the fuel-to-air ratio, right?

    As for #3, black and sooty, this is running rich. But how can I run rich on only one cylinder? I will be taking the carbs apart next weekend, but I want to know what you all think I should be looking for.

    Thanks yall

    #2
    Which way are you numbering the carbs?

    I am guessing that you are starting on the right (throttle hand side) and going to the left (clutch hand side).

    If so, that is incorrect.

    Placing the proper numbers on them (assuming that you numbered them incorrectly), that would make #2 the rich one.
    It is very common for #2 to be rich if the petcock is leaking and dumping fuel down the vacuum hose.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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      #3
      Steve, thanks for the quick reply. However, I am numbering them from left to right. I double checked myself from the owners manual. I also went and checked the vent line just in case and its dry.

      Theres fresh fuel and I slapped the carbtune to make sure all were lined up. I got #1 and #4 ~<2mcHg higher than #2 and #3.
      I do plan to pull the carbs and check out what might be different between #3 and all others, but I think I will not find anything cause I seem to have to open them up every year. I feel confident that were in good working order before I winterized the bike.

      Is it normal to have to open carbs up every year do to issues???

      Comment


        #4
        Update: I opened the carbs up and found #3 missing its main jet! I found the main jet and washer under the floats. A heads up to others who may have just one fouling plug.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by cowb0y View Post
          Is it normal to have to open carbs up every year do to issues???
          Nope.

          I cleaned the carbs in my wife's bike about 6 years ago. Probably would not have bothered them this year, but I had them off to replace a missing exhaust bolt, so I figured "why not?".

          Besides, I don't think I replaced the intake boot o-rings back then. It's done now.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment

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