starting issues after carb rehab

[Guest]

85 gs 700 carbs have been taken apart cleaned dipped all orings replaced . Intake boot orings replaced I am currently at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated on the pilot screws valves have been checked . The bike will not start without a shot of starting fluid (i know not good for it) once started it will idle well above 1,000 rpm better than it ever has actually . Around 1,000 and below it pops and snaps loudly . when reved high it seems a bit boggy and will pop as it throttles down . It also smells rich other than these things it will sit there and pur like a kitten . Any suggestions on what I may need to do thanks 70GT

[Nessism]

Is the air box installed and sealed to the carbs?

[70GT]

air box

Is the air box installed and sealed to the carbs?

yes the boots are good all installed and the lid has a new foam seal all sealed up thanks

[70GT]

seriously thats it

Is that the best to be offered (is the airbox on) come on guys need some help here . I realy need my bike for this summer at 4 bucks a gallon for petro I am quickly going broke

[cowboyup3371]

What Ed is trying to tell you is real simple - is the bike stock? Is the original air box and filter in? What sizes are your jets? Lose the starting fluid cause you don't need it if you set everything else correctly.

Help us help you.

[Nessism]

Stock exhaust? If not, you may have to move up on the mains or get a jet kit.

A few things to check include:

- voltage at the coils, should be near battery voltage

- Spark plug cap resistance and the connection to the plug wires

- pilot jets for obstructions - need to hold them up to the light to be sure they are open

- make sure the pilot jet plugs are in place

- vacuum sync the carbs

- check valve clearances

Most of this is basic maintenance so no worry if you don't find the problem right away. Maintenance is never a waste of time.

[chef1366]

Have a free BBQ and some of the best GS minds will come over and get your bike running.
Oh, never mind. Been there done that.

[70GT]

What Ed is trying to tell you is real simple - is the bike stock? Is the original air box and filter in? What sizes are your jets? Lose the starting fluid cause you don't need it if you set everything else correctly.

Help us help you.

stock exhaust stock airbox k&n filter in the box the only jet I saw a size on was the air jet and it said 160 . pilot screws 2.5 turns off lightly seated (in my original thread) the jet sizes should be fine (and stock) since the bike ran good at speed 20 or above before the rebuild it just got increasingly worse at low rpms as the carbs got more and more dirty rusty gas tank jelly like fuel in bowls . Tank has been cleaned and lined with a por 15 kit so its good clear fuel line no inline filter runs fine on its own fuel once started . Thanks Rick

[Mith]

Have you done a valve adjustment? That may help your starting issue.

[cableguy]

Maybe check for air leaks, like intake boots, and is your choke working properly?

[TheCafeKid]

First. It shouldn't idle below 1000. So it's gonna run like crap below 1000.
Second. You cleaned the carbs but have no idea what jets are in it? Start over. See whats in it. Then let us know. Your trying to make something more complicated than it needs to be because you don't want to do EVERYTHING.
You should know what jet sizes are in your bike. Don't assume. There's no assuming in bike repair.

[70GT]

First. It shouldn't idle below 1000. So it's gonna run like crap below 1000.
Second. You cleaned the carbs but have no idea what jets are in it? Start over. See whats in it. Then let us know. Your trying to make something more complicated than it needs to be because you don't want to do EVERYTHING.
You should know what jet sizes are in your bike. Don't assume. There's no assuming in bike repair.

The only thing I did not do was look at the jet sizes obviously that was a rookie mistake on my part . Everything else was done valves checked . boots inspected . air box sealed . carbs cleaned all orings replaced . bowl gaskets replaced . intake boot orings replaced . intake boot mounting hardware replaced . As for not wanting to do everything I have worked on my bike for about 35 hours in the past 2 weeks cosmetics and mechanics I would hardly call that not wanting to do everything . If I need to pull my carbs back off to verify the jet sizes then thats whats will be done if there are things I missed I guess thats why I come here to learn . man some of you guys sure seem to have gotten grumpy over the winter . I hope the sun is out soon . Thanks 70GT

[TheCafeKid]

The only thing I did not do was look at the jet sizes obviously that was a rookie mistake on my part . Everything else was done valves checked . boots inspected . air box sealed . carbs cleaned all orings replaced . bowl gaskets replaced . intake boot orings replaced . intake boot mounting hardware replaced . As for not wanting to do everything I have worked on my bike for about 35 hours in the past 2 weeks cosmetics and mechanics I would hardly call that not wanting to do everything . If I need to pull my carbs back off to verify the jet sizes then thats whats will be done if there are things I missed I guess thats why I come here to learn . man some of you guys sure seem to have gotten grumpy over the winter . I hope the sun is out soon . Thanks 70GT[ATTACH]13228[/ATTACH]

Sorry dude, not trying to sound grumpy, just trying to make a point. For every one of you who will do the work, you get 5-10 on here who expect some miracle silver bullet fix, or don't think that they have to do everything and instead try to get away with one or two things and then wonder why they're no closer to the bike running.
Check your jets, check your fuel tap, check your gas cap vent. If the tank was rusty and nasty these things can be clogged, effecting fuel flow when it needs to be at it's highest.

[robertbarr]

runs fine on its own fuel once started . Thanks Rick

That eliminates a lot of factors.

It looks like either (/and) float bowl level or clogged passages for the 'starter' (aka choke) circuit. As I recall, on your bike the choke is a straight mechanical lever right on the carbs (no cable). First, examine the plunger action on both carbs as you move that lever. It's extremely simple, but check it anyway.

Did you use compressed air on the internal passages? In this case, especially the choke pickup tubes, if there was a rust problem.

I'd be tempted to pull the carbs and tank them again in Berryman's overnight and blow them out thoroughly with compressed air. Your problem HAS to be in that area (enrichment circuit).