Bogs after it's warm.

[niclpnut]

I'm at work too lol, and bored outa my skull.

Can you point it out on the diagram?




I often reference the parts fisches when im dissasembling or reasembling. Kinda shows you how things come apart.

[kelticsol]

I just got back from lunch. Olive Garden (Good fake Italian food)

It looks like it may be #12 and #68. But I don't have the carbs in front of me right now.

[hikermikem]

Those plastic bits around the butterflies will OK - you don't have to remove that whole throttle valve assy.

I've never remeoved those on any of the many, many carbs I've dipped. I usually spray down each disassembled carb body with carb spray cleaner first to reduce the amount of gunk I put into the dip can. Then each body & bowl go into together for 24 hrs or so.

Are your mixture screw caps removed already? If not, you have to yank them out to get to the mixture screw, spring & teeny, tiny washer & o-ring. Take care when removing them so as not to lose that stuff.

Good luck,

mike

[kelticsol]

Coil relay mod - Check.
Drain Goil (Gas/Oil) - Check.
Scratch head and wonder how long the PO rode with the bad petcock tha I replaced - Check
Strip Acorn Nut - Check
Strip Acorn Stud - Check.
Drop little spring on the front brake light switch - Check
Find little spring - Check (This was amazing that I found it. It bounced off the Valve cover gasket)
Dump contents of parts basket into Parts Dip - Check

I've had a busy day. Seriously, everything was going great. I was getting stuff done on the bike. Having a good time. Time was flying by. Then everything went to a handbasket.

So, off to GSR to see about removing that pesky stud and getting a new nut.

[niclpnut]

Vice grips are your friend for removing the studs.

Then replace with a new M6 Size, 1mm Pitch stud (measure the length of your old stud). You can find them at good hardware stores (not HD or Low).

How much goil did you get out of the cases?

Nic

[kelticsol]

I'm scared to admit. But it was about 2 gallons. I'm guessing it's a really good thing that I wasn't able to ride it for more than 15-20 minutes.

I got the stud out no problems. Hardware store is getting hit up tomorrow. Fo Sho.

[niclpnut]

I'm scared to admit. But it was about 2 gallons. I'm guessing it's a really good thing that I wasn't able to ride it for more than 15-20 minutes.

I got the stud out no problems. Hardware store is getting hit up tomorrow. Fo Sho.

Ouch on the gas.

Running like that is a easy way to mess up the bearings.

Hopefully no damage was done.


Nic

[mike-s]

2 gallons, damn. That's like you've basically got a bunch of ultrarich 2 stroke premix operating in the sump

[kelticsol]

Yes it is. At least I am getting this stuff all worked out.

On to other news: I knew that the pilot jet (the one in the bottom of carb) on Carb #1 was stripped out by the PO. So, Did some research into the matter here. Saw some really good ideas to get it out. Torx, Left hand drill bits, etc, etc. Well after dip, overnight in Liquid Wrench, and applying heat, I am now the proud owner of a carb body that has a pilot jet with a tip of a torx head stuck inside. Next I'm off to get a left handed drill bits.

Todays check list:

Hardware store for the infamous stripped oil change mistake.
Then to Harbor Freight for some left handed drill bits.
Then to Dealership and hope they have a 42.5 Pilot Jet.

While on the subject of Jets:
Main Jet : 130
Pilot 42.5

That's what is in there now. It does have 4 in 1 V&H. Do those jets seem about right? I was thinking the main may be a little large.

[niclpnut]

Stock main jet is mikuni 112.5 and 42.5 pilots

Is the main jet a mikuni jet or aftermarket? Is the needle adjustable? Is there a jet kit installed?

Dynojet Stage 3 uses a 130 which equates to a 122.5 mikuni.

If you have a 130 mikuni main jet and you are running an air box it seems a bit large.

Nic

[kelticsol]

I would have no idea if this is a DYno or not. I googled it real quick and no one seems to have an exact way to ID them.

I can tell you this:

Main: 130
Air Jet: 160
Pilot: 42.5

The only other markings on them appear to be R51 or something like that. It very easily could be some japanese character.

The slide seems to have a taper. Are the stock ones Completely straight?

[niclpnut]

They have a taper, but not as dramatic as aftermarket needles.

Jet kits offer a needle with multiple slots that allow the clip to be moved up or down.

Also the jets will be marked. The mikuni mark is a box with another box inside it.

[kelticsol]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

[BassCliff]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

Hi,

The stock Mikuni main jets use a volume measurement. For example, a jet marked 160 will flow 160cc of fuel per minute. This measurement does not correspond to the actual diameter of the jet opening (in mm).

The main jets in the Dynojet kits are measured in actual size. A 130 Dynojet main jet will have a diameter of 130mm.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[niclpnut]

That's the mark. If you squint it kinda looks like a 51. So, they're mikuni jets then.

I'm guessing the 160 on the main air jet equates to 1.6 mm. Stock from manual says 1.7 mm. Is this right?

You have a main air jet and a pilot air jet on the intake side of your carbs.

One is a press in jet that is not changed or removed...thats the main air jet which according to the chart measures 1.7mm stock.

The pilot air jet IS removable and is identified by a # ie 170 stock. for the 82 750T.


Mikuni pilot air jets sizes are the same as Dynojet. DynoJet jets are marked according to the diameter of the hole in the jet .. ie: DJ150 = 1.5mm and DJ175 = 1.75mm. So, yeah a 160 pilot jet would be 1.6mm.


Nic