Bike rides "JERKY"

[earlfor]

Going to be night and day with the new chain and sprockets, and your engine is going to love you if you go the 530 conversion route, with the weight reduction.

Nic

There are various reasons to do a #630 to #530 conversion, but its primarily for availability and choice of selection. Weight wise, there is about 6 ounces difference between the two. I doubt any 500+ lb motorcycle is going to notice that you're only carrying half a bottle of water instead of a full bottle in you tank bag.

Earl

[sparkey]

Whatever you do, do NOT set the chain tension tight. If you do, you will be buying a new chain and sprockets again in just a few thousand miles. On the lower chain run alongside the rear rim, you want to be able to move the chain up and down 2 to 2 1/2 inches total. Thats an inch to an inch and a quarter above centerline plus that amount below. Chains do NOT require tension to function correctly. There is already 70+ HP pulling the chain down, into the sprocket teeth. The tension is useful only to keep the chain from slapping the frame cross arm and to hold the chain tight enough that it can not come off. However, assuming your front and rear sprockets are aligned, how could it come off? When you set your chain tension and you think you have the correct amount of slack, with the bike on the centerstand, (engine not running) spin the rear tire around a half dozen times. If you have the chain tensioner bolts set correctly, the rear sprocket teeth will track in the center of the chain link, never touching the side plates. Tweak your adjustments untii the chain tracks center on the rear sprocket teeth.

I get 30,000 miles on a chain and sprocket set before as a matter of precaution, I replace them. I could probably get another 10k out of a set if I needed to.

Earl

There are various reasons to do a #630 to #530 conversion, but its primarily for availability and choice of selection. Weight wise, there is about 6 ounces difference between the two. I doubt any 500+ lb motorcycle is going to notice that you're only carrying half a bottle of water instead of a full bottle in you tank bag.

Earl

Thanks Earl,

Coool. I will make a decision about what chain I will get. Right now the sprockets look good. I might get a stock chain just for cost reasons. It was tensioned correctly just sat out in the elements too long with no protection.
On a side note I did tighten it up and rode it around the block to try and un-bind it and it did free it up somewhat, but I do not plan on riding it till I get a new chain.


Brian

[cowboyup3371]

Replace everything as a set to ensure you don't mess up either even more later on.

[earlfor]

Thanks Earl,

Coool. I will make a decision about what chain I will get. Right now the sprockets look good. I might get a stock chain just for cost reasons. It was tensioned correctly just sat out in the elements too long with no protection.
On a side note I did tighten it up and rode it around the block to try and un-bind it and it did free it up somewhat, but I do not plan on riding it till I get a new chain.
Brian

I understand cost considerations. It isn't preferable, but if you need to re use the stock sprockets there is a little trick that will help. When the engine is pulling the chain, the most wear on the sprocket tooth will be on the forward side of the tooth, which is where the engine concentrates the pulling force. If your sprockets are flat, (meaning not having any offset flange cast into them), you can remove the sprockets and rotate them 180 degrees, so that what originally was the front edge of the tooth and taking the load is now the unloaded following/back tooth. It gives you a new front tooth edge. It doesn't help with wear in the valleys, but it will help to increase your chain life.

I'm not sure I'm clear on this point. So, the little drawing is sprocket
teeth. The side/edge that wears is 1. 2 just follows and doesn't do
anything. By rotating the sprockets 180 deg, 2 will be in the 1 position.

/\..../\
--1-2--

Earl