Peer Review - New Carb Rebuild Tutorial

[Nessism]

Put this together in the interest of highlighting some of the finer details not captured in the other tutorial. Can't say it's better exactly, just different.

Please make recommendations on how to improve it, then I'll hand it off to basscliff for archives if you guys think it's useful.

File is big, hope it doesn't take too long to download...

EDIT: New version (again)...almost done pending further comments http://www.mediafire.com/file/zx5unr...Tutorial-2.pdf

[Flyboy]

Nice work there Ed, you are a scholar and a gentleman, sir.

[afholderman]

Looking good, I'll list a few points that might be added:
- Give a depth to leave exposed when taping the drill bit off to remove the pilot screw cap.
-Yellow text is very hard to read on some slides (26, 29, 30, 33, 35, 38, 39, 44, 48, 50, 52, 55, 58, 60, 67)

Other than that this is a great update to the previous manual. Adding in the info about float heights and syncing really rounds out the manual.

[posplayr]

Ed,
I think this is a great tutorial, the whole visual presentation with minimum words is almost a pleasure to view .

A couple of things.

On the front page list some part numbers like BS32, BS34 and BS36, I did not know were were going to be talking about my carbs till I saw them .

Maybe be a quick pic of how/where to measure the throat for ID.

On Page 51, I remember reading to measure float height with the float sideways so that there was only minimal gravity effect to depress the spring. Nice detail in the liquid float hight measurements instructions.

On Page 65, please provide a warning for smallchildren and old people to leave the room before showing that picture; it was painful

I know this is a carb rebuild tutorial and it is great, maybe add a couple of pages at the end on different filter options air box with stock filter, K&N insert, top off, K&N pods and EMGO noname stay away from pods. Add the rule of thumb for jetting as a function of that and 4:1. No need for a complete jetting guide but just so newbies know to not and try and run the bike with NO filters on it. Maybe the DJ v.s Mikuni jet difference

add a link or insert the Factory pro CV turing guide.

maybe show where to drill the slide when doing a DJ Kit .

The yellow is good for dark pictures , but a little less pleasurable against a while background but perfectly acceptable.

Thanks for the contribution, a picture is worth a thousand words and alot easier on the brain.

Jim

[Nessism]

Looking good, I'll list a few points that might be added:
- Give a depth to leave exposed when taping the drill bit off to remove the pilot screw cap.
-Yellow text is very hard to read on some slides (26, 29, 30, 33, 35, 38, 39, 44, 48, 50, 52, 55, 58, 60, 67)

Other than that this is a great update to the previous manual. Adding in the info about float heights and syncing really rounds out the manual.

Okay thanks. I'll play around and try to find a better color and list the depth to drill.

I'm trying to keep the verbiage down to a minimum. Please let me know if any of the notes (or slides for that matter) are unnecessary or need clarification.

[spyug]

Excellent job Ed. Thanks for taking the time, that should make it easier for some of the reading challenged newbs to follow. The only criticsm I have is also the yellow lettering in a lot of the slides...very hard to read, keep it a darker colour please.

Cheers,
Spyug

[cableguy]

Nice write-up! Good plain english and thoughtful arrangement of photos. It was good to mention the importance of degreasing/cleaning, and for REALLY gunky racks take them to a self serve car wash with a bottle of citrus cleaner and they'll come clean.

[Dogma]

Very nice attention to detail. It think this should displace the current carb rebuild tutorial almost immediately.

A few comments:

1 The impact driver is shown, but there is no mention of it's use later.

4 This may cause confusion for noobs who don't realize they're looking at the carbs from the front of the bike, instead of from the rear. The text is describing the view opposite of what is shown.

5 Personally, I would prefer pictures illustrating how to use the sync. adjuster mechanisms to identify carb bodies, rather than marking the bodies.

30 A noob may not know what "pent. lube" is.

32 A comment about replacing hardened pilot jet plugs might be a good idea.

57 The snap ring pliers aren't shown on slide 1. A suggestion of where to get these would be nice, since I've never seen them in an ordinary auto parts store.

[Nessism]

Very nice attention to detail. It think this should displace the current carb rebuild tutorial almost immediately.

A few comments:

1 The impact driver is shown, but there is no mention of it's use later.

4 This may cause confusion for noobs who don't realize they're looking at the carbs from the front of the bike, instead of from the rear. The text is describing the view opposite of what is shown.

5 Personally, I would prefer pictures illustrating how to use the sync. adjuster mechanisms to identify carb bodies, rather than marking the bodies.

30 A noob may not know what "pent. lube" is.

32 A comment about replacing hardened pilot jet plugs might be a good idea.

57 The snap ring pliers aren't shown on slide 1. A suggestion of where to get these would be nice, since I've never seen them in an ordinary auto parts store.

Thanks for the feedback...

...a new tool photo is on the To Do list. I'll also update the slide regarding what to do if the screws get stuck (impact driver, pent lube, vice grips, etc).

I'll also add detail about performing a sync...and your other suggestions.

[bccap]

As a noob who is planning to do this job over the winter I found your tutorial very clear. I have read Bikecliffs and my service manual several times in preparation. But the one thing that I would like to see, is tool sizes, so I can make 1 trip to the tool store.
what size circlip removers, if they have a numerical size or just an overall length.
same with needle nose pliers, screw drivers etc.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I just finished downloading and took a very quick look through the pages. Looks very good and well done! I like, I like...

Maybe we need some tips for reinstalling the carbs back on the bike . Old intake boots are a terrible thing!

[cableguy]

As a noob who is planning to do this job over the winter I found your tutorial very clear. I have read Bikecliffs and my service manual several times in preparation. But the one thing that I would like to see, is tool sizes, so I can make 1 trip to the tool store.
what size circlip removers, if they have a numerical size or just an overall length.
same with needle nose pliers, screw drivers etc.

I think it should be mentioned that while it would be nice to spell out to the letter each piece one might need, people who want to get into a project like this should have at least some mechanical experience, and a decent set of tools. If you don't have what fits, you'll at least know what to look for. A noob who runs to the store with a list of tools specific for this job will likely feel in over their head, since most of the tools needed are pretty common, and he would have been using those for years already. I think most who try this for the first time (myself included) find it easier than it looks, when there is a good step by step to follow. But then again, the "specialty" tools were just ones I already had, customized for my project. Ground down screwdriver for mixture screw, etc.

[Matchless]

Ed,
Excellent bit of work done here! The photos are very descriptive and this is already more than good enough for publishing.
I have some comments if I may:

1. The background for the text makes it slightly hard to read, already mentioned by others.
2. A picture of the bench sync showing the measurement of the butterfly would be of help to first timers I think.
3. I usually add a tiny dab of anti-seize to the pilot screw threads, as they are vertically exposed to water and corrosion once the anti-fiddle discs have been removed.
4. A picture showing the orientation and position of the rubber boots at the engine (where they are marked L & R) and the airbox (the nub and the boot notch) may also help.
5. In many countries Berrymans or the Gunk stuff you show is not available. Some clarity and possibly an alternative mentioned would be nice.
6. You did not refer to probing blocked jets which is also required at times.
7. You may also consider reducing the picture quality to get the final document a bit smaller.
8. Some specifics on the tools, or just label them i.e "14mm spanner" in the picture etc. - also mentioned by others.
9. Maybe showing the replacement and sizes of the JIS Philips screws with S/S cap screws and sizes for those who want to buy or use those.
10. Maybe give the o-ring sizes and type required as well.

Again excellent work and i hope this helps.
Keep well.

[Nessism]

Thanks for all the great feedback guys. Please keep it coming.

I'll try to incorporate as much of these suggestions as possible but I'm not sure how far to go regarding expanding this to include other fuel system issues.

I've already drafted up changes to the last page to detail a few key points (such as the fact that the engine won't run without an airbox), but I don't want to get into jetting recommendations for people using a header/pods (although I will mention that the carbs will have to be rejetted).

I didn't provide a lot of bench sync details because I'm not a big believer in spending a lot of time on this. As long as the bench sync is in the ballpark (eyeball check is fine) then a proper vacuum sync can be performed after the engine is started. Maybe I should rethink this since so many people never vacuum sync so a detailed bench sync is better than nothing.

[Matchless]

Ed, just noticed something that I had to recheck in the manual. The picture of the float height adjustment in the manual actually shows the measurement to the center of the float bowl rim and the manual I looked at also did not specify measuring without the gasket to the top if the rim adjacent to that picture.
This could be very confusing to a first timer I think.
The picture may be confusing due to the lip not showing.