air to fuel mixture weird...stock jetting?

[Draddy]

Dave you rock. Thanks! Looking forward to working on this bike.

I did call a shop for a quote, they wanted 7 hours to clean the carbs, then another 3 to tune...no parts. Pretty crazy prices I must say to tune up a 31 year old bike. My M3 is not that expensive to maintain.

[Draddy]

Does anyone have a picture of what/where the side lift hole is? installing the dynojet.

[Steve]

Does anyone have a picture of what/where the side lift hole is? installing the dynojet.

Very simple, actually, no picture needed.

Look on the end of the slide where the needle sticks out. There is another hole beside the needle. That's the "lift hole".

.

[Draddy]

Very simple, actually, no picture needed.

Look on the end of the slide where the needle sticks out. There is another hole beside the needle. That's the "lift hole".

.

that the screw is in currently? it's got a bracket holding the needle channel? (the dradle looking thing?)

I feel like if I drill into it, I'll mess up the screw functionality.

[Steve]

No, you are looking on the inside. Read my comment again.

Look on the end of the slide where the needle sticks out.

.

[karllmt]

As someone who has been trying to get his carbs "right" for years now, I just have to put in my two cents.
I like carbs too! CV carbs are not hard to work on, but you must have patience. Especially if they are "virgins", in other words, 30+ years old and never dissembled. This will require more than just the tutorials, but the GS Resource site is a great resource for help.
And on the shop comment. Do not take these bikes, or carbs, to a dealer, or any shop that doesn't specialize in older bikes. Unless you see 4 or more bikes in the shop over 25 years old, just turn around and leave.

For all that have told you that the CV carbs are "really hard" to work on, what they are really saying is that they have NO CLUE, and neither does their "mechanic". DO NOT bring that bike to a shop to get it set right, not only will you waste your money, the 20-something "mechanic" that you are paying to work on it, (if you can even find a shop that will agree to do it) has more smarts in texting than he/she does, about carbs.

I like carbs...REALLY like carbs!

We'll get you running perfect, or YOU are not trying!

Sleep well, you are in very good hands...

[Draddy]

Okay, so now I can ride the bike, got the tire inflated and have been riding it around.

All gears work fine, shifts great...however I cannot get it to go past 5500-6000 RPMs. Once it gets to that point, it cuts out, feels like I hit a rev limiter.

The other thing that I think is playing into it: Now I don't know what this bike is supposed to feel or sound like.

But when I hold throttle constant, at say 3500 rpms, in all gears it sounds like:[PHP] br br br br br br br br br br br br b b b b rbr bb rb rb rbr [/PHP]

rather than what I think it should sound like:

[PHP]brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrr[/PHP]


any tips? Do I need to re-jet down to the dynojet 160 rather than the 165 I put in?

If I put exhaust on it, would that solve the issues? Would it be getting too much or to little fuel? Should I turn the fuel/air mixture up?

Thanks!

[Steve]

I missed something somewhere. You have Dynojet 165 MAIN jet?

I believe the recommendation was for about a 130 Mikuni, which is about a 138 Dynojet.

If you have 165 DJ mains in there you need to go down to the suggested 138 or 140.

.

[Draddy]

I missed something somewhere. You have Dynojet 165 MAIN jet?

I believe the recommendation was for about a 130 Mikuni, which is about a 138 Dynojet.

If you have 165 DJ mains in there you need to go down to the suggested 138 or 140.

.

thanks for your help Steve.


I actually just ordered the only kit available (like suggested initially) for the suzuki 850 directly from dynojet. it came with 155, 160, and 165 main jets.

the instructions that came with the dynojet were awful, the worst set of instructions I think I've ever used.

It said that if I have anything aftermarket (like the cones and straight pipe) use the 165, else the 160.



I replaced the main jets, and the needle on the vacuum slide, as well as drilling out the the slide vent hole or whatever.

Does that help at all?

[dr_fosg8]

If I put exhaust on it, would that solve the issues?

Well I would say YES. If you are attempting to do any carb tuning you will be needing an exhaust of some manner attached to the motor.

[Draddy]

Well I would say YES. If you are attempting to do any carb tuning you will be needing an exhaust of some manner attached to the motor.

haha, thanks for calling me out, I really meant to say muffler. right now it's just a straight pipe cone thing. (4 to 1, going out the brake side)


I'm really happy about how it has improved since I bought it, it starts instantly when I push the button (without choke ever), idles fine, and 1500-4000 pulls great, but once I go higher it starts loosing it.

[dr_fosg8]

Ok, I understand now. You are running a four into one header with no muffler connected to the collector. And still yes, it will be easier to get the jetting right with a muffler attached. It is possible to tune an open header but is aggrevating.