Need Help, not getting fuel?

[monsterfox50]

hi, guys (first post)

OK, so I'm new to the bike world and just picked up an 81 gs750L? (with the big square headlight)

Anyways i got the bike in "non running" condition for a good price. got it home, put a good battery in and poured some gas in the tank. it cranked but wouldnt fire, removed air box and hit it with come carb cleaner and it fired rite up but wont run unles you continue to spay carb cleaner. so im pretty sure its a fuel problem.

in the last week i pulled the carbs, rebuilt them using a K&L Kit (air needles and pilot screws were stripped) and swithed to pods. but same issue.

any help is appreciated. thanks!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

hi, guys (first post)

Anyways i got the bike in "non running" condition for a good price. got it home, put a good battery in and poured some gas in the tank. it cranked but wouldnt fire, removed air box and hit it with come carb cleaner and it fired rite up but wont run unles you continue to spay carb cleaner. so im pretty sure its a fuel problem.

in the last week i pulled the carbs, rebuilt them using a K&L Kit (air needles and pilot screws were stripped) and swithed to pods. but same issue.

any help is appreciated. thanks!

Not sure what you mean by "air needles".
Based on your description on how it starts and needing spray, I'd say your pilot circuit (at least) is clogged. The pilot jets have very small holes and can "varnish up" with time and lack of use. No fuel will pass through them and the bike won't hold an idle or run well up to approx' 1/4 throttle position. Also, if the mixture screws (pilot screws you called them) are damaged or the passages they regulate are damaged then you'll have more problems. The carbs may need a good synch too.
I'd verify the carbs are clean and especially the pilot circuit in this case.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Also, running pods will require richer jetting. If you have the stock exhaust then that's a poor flow match for the pods and finding the right jetting can be a lot of trial and error. I'd put the stock box back on, get the bike running well first, then go for a re-jet if you still want to.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. monsterfox50,

The aftermarket "carb kits" are not really ideal for rebuilding your carbs. They contain inferior parts. I hope you saved all of the OEM parts. To properly clean the carbs, which it sounds like you really need to do, you must completely disassemble them and dip each carb bodie and all metal bits in carb cleaner for up to 24 hours. Then reassemble with an O-ring kit from http://cycleorings.com. You'll find more information in the two carb cleaning tutorials on my website. And yes, according the the carb guru himself, KEITH KRAUSE, you should get your bike running good in the stock configuration first, then start your modifications. That way you have a known good baseline to experiment with.

Anyway, let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[monsterfox50]

Keith: pilot jets are new (old ones were sriped and had to be drilled out, by "air needle" i'm refering to the needle shaped on with no holes in it that is located under the small silver "plug".

also i will try to re-install the stock air box and see what that gets me.

Basscliff: i have visited your website, your tutorials are what i based my rebuild on.
the carbs were fully disassembled and dipped in carb cleaner for just over 24 hours. i did not however replace all the o-rings with new ones.

another question i have about re-jetting. seeing as how i plan to run pods and a chopped exhaust. would a Dynojet kit work better than trial and error with different jets

[KEITH KRAUSE]

A DJ kit should be a better choice than going with separate jets but be warned there can be issues. Jetting sometimes goes beyond pilot jet/jet needle and main jet swapping. You may have throttle response issues that require drilling out the slides or installing different springs for the slides, air jet modifications, etc. The CV carbs sometimes have issues is all I'm saying.
Getting a bike in the condition you mention can have several things that need attention so this may be more than just carbs. But your description of how it needs spray to run perfectly fits a carb issue where the pilot circuit is not sending fuel and/or there's a vacuum issue related to a poor synch or other problem not allowing proper vacuum which will not allow fuel to be sucked in by the jetting. So in addition to a good cleaning of the carbs, you need to check the diaphragms, etc, and bench synch the slides carefully and also check the float levels...
It may seem like more work but if you jump straight to pods and new jetting you may have trouble. I'd get the bike running well in stock form first.

[thombre]

Need help, not getting fuel?

TIA,Been sitting for a long time?
Drain fuel out of gas tank,remove larger hose from petcock take a 2 foot piece of 5/16 ID hose and attach to fuel petcock,put petcock on prime,drain old fuel into old gas can for proper disposal.
The fuel petcock has two hoses the smaller one is for vaccumn,the larger one is fuel supply to carbs,about 2 inches from petcock cut 1 1/2" piece out of fuel line and install a fuel filter.
Remove spark plugs,take wire brush and clean electrode,use feeler gauge and set gap to .031.Check cylinder compession,remove right side cover on engine,put a wrench on large nut and turn clockwise, put your thumb over spark plug hole and see if air forces your thumb up,you want over 100 lbs pressure,put 1 oz.of motor oil down each plug hole to lubricate piston rings.Put rag over holes to keep oil from escape during compression test.
Put plugs back and use some anti seize on threads,add 1 gallon of fresh fuel to tank.
Charge battery to 12 VDC,run ground wire from starter solenoid mounting bolt, to negative post on battery,use 14 gauge wire and 1/4 ring terminals.
Fully open choke lever,hold clutch in,do not turn throttle,put engine switch on run,turn key on,press start button,once it starts bring idle down slowly with choke,turn off choke once your in 2nd gear.