A month of work wasted

[pete]

Gas in oil = leaky petcock

See if there's any gas in the vacuum line to #3 (that's #3,Pete) carb, or replace vacuum line with clear hose to check.

Don't bother with the carbs as yet

did you get Steve's spreadsheet for your valves?

The bike will run OK with tight clearances, better with proper ones. Do you think it's your feeler gauge?

Bugger, cheers for the clarification Big T... for us twin guys it's always number 1

[Gonzo]

Okay, so I got aroound to checking my petcock as per Mr. Barr's guide and all seems okay, but I have some reservations about the results.

I get fuel flow when vacuum is applied, but when I stop sucking on the vac line, fuel keeps flowing for a few seconds. Probably a good 5-7 seconds after vacuum is removed. It stops after that, but it concerns me that it doesn't stop right away. Is that normal? Does the diaphram on a new petcock snap shut right away? If it supposed to then I suppose it's time for a new petcock. I just want to ask and make sure before I dum p the coin for one since they tend to be a bit pricey. (I still need to check prices for mine, but even if it's "cheap" it's still probably like $50)

So, again, does anyone have an idea of just how fast that diaphram should close?

[Steve]

Gonzo, check out these gauges. You should be able to find one in the center and outer end of your clearance specs. they are way easier to use to get an accurate reading than standard feeler gauges. I could never get a good reading with standard gauges, these are spot on. http://www.z1enterprises.com/Tappet-...dual-2877.aspx

If you are using that exact gauge, your clearances are WAY larger than specified.

That gauge is for .006" and .008". If you do the math, the clearances on the 2-valve GS engines is only .001" to .003".

Where you are remembering an "8" is in the METRIC value, which is .03mm to .08mm. BIG difference between the two.

The #3 was the worst culprit which struck me since that's the master.

As far as fuel level is concerned, there is no "master" carb.

Also, when synchronizing your VM carbs, there is no "master" carb.

That only applies to the CV-style BS carbs on the newer bikes.

I get fuel flow when vacuum is applied, but when I stop sucking on the vac line, fuel keeps flowing for a few seconds. Probably a good 5-7 seconds after vacuum is removed. It stops after that, but it concerns me that it doesn't stop right away. Is that normal?

How much fuel line has to drain after the petcock stops?

If you have a long line attached to it, it will take a while to drain after the petcock closes. Try it again with as short a hose as possible.

.

[Gonzo]

How much fuel line has to drain after the petcock stops?

If you have a long line attached to it, it will take a while to drain after the petcock closes. Try it again with as short a hose as possible.

.

I had no line attached actually. I just set it on the edge of the table and held a bottle to the petcock opening to catch what drained out. If it blew pressure back into the vac line it closed almost right away. Not quite immediately, but my lungs can only pump so much pressure. The result was the same with the gas cap on and off. I tried both thinking that perhaps it might be affecting pressure on the other side somehow. I realize that it normally runs with the cap on so it's kind of moot, but I wanted to narrow down anything I could.

Yeah, I was thinking of which carb the vac line attached to when I was thinking of "master" carbs. I don't know why I didn't figure that out before. I'll claim that I was overly frustrated.

I checked Z1 for a petcock and I THINK I found one that fits mine, but it's kind of confusing because of the designations. Anyway, point is that it was around $50 so worst case scenario is I replace it somewhat cheaply and don't worry about it. I need to call Z1 to clarify though.