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GS850 will not run

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    #16
    Originally posted by Big T View Post
    Nope, comes on due to lack of current flow thru the points
    Evidently you missed part of the original post.
    Originally posted by veedub View Post
    ... I replaced the stock points ignition with a Z1 electronic ignition kit the spark is bright and solid. ...
    I don't know how the electricity will flow with the new kit, but yes, something should change at the timing light. Whether the light comes on or goes off will depend on the unit. Contact Z1 or the manufacturer of the kit for details.



    One other comment caught my eye:
    Originally posted by veedub View Post
    azr: I never changed out valve shims I wanted to hear it run on 4 cylinders before I invested this money, some valves are tight but not to the point where I think it should stop it from running. It might run better with proper clearances but I still think it should run with them tight, no?
    Tight valves WILL prevent proper running.
    We keep telling you guys and telling you guys, ... THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS.

    CLEAN the carbs.

    ADJUST the valves.

    CLEAN the electrical connections, especially the charging circuit.

    THEN, you can fire it up to see if it's worth putting any more money into the bike.

    Not sure what you thought you might have to "invest" in a valve adjustment, but a new valve cover gasket is $10.25 and valve shims have apparently just gone up to $5.64. In the worst-possible case, where you would need all eight shims (highly unlikely), you would spend $45.12 for shims and you will need the valve cover gasket anyway, for a total of 55.37. Usually you don't need to get but a few shims and move a couple of others, but you can also check into the shim club for details on how that works.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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    Siblings and Spouses
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    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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      #17
      When you were looking at Basscliff's site for the carb rebuild guide, did you click on the one below the CV article that says VM carb Rebuild Guide? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf

      You will burn up things on those tight valves if you don't adjust them. Get that done ASAP like everyone has tried to tell you.
      Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

      1981 GS550T - My First
      1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
      2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

      Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
      Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
      and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

      Comment


        #18
        When you were looking at Basscliff's site for the carb rebuild guide, did you click on the one below the CV article that says VM carb Rebuild Guide? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf
        Yes I used the proper guide for my carbs.

        I am well aware tight valves will cause an engine to run poorly and that prolonged running of an engine with tight valves is going to burn valves and eventually eat valve seats etc, On my VWs I usually check and reset valves about every 1500 miles, then again I can do those valves in about 10 minutes and they are all adjustable without any swapping of parts. Anyway, I think they would need to be very very tight to not be able to hold an idle when cold.

        I never said I wasn't going to get the valves properly set before riding the bike, I just wanted to hear her run on all 4 cylinders for 30 seconds before I spend yet another $50.

        I just checked the timing dynamically and its spot on perfect so that appears to not be the issue.

        I did replace the airbox boots and the intake O-rings, the intakes are still soft and pliable on the carb side. However I was just looking at the airbox a little closer and it seems like I am missing something. The air cleaner itself is in a chrome metal box that slides into the airbox slides and attaches with one screw to keep it from sliding back out. Well this leaves almost 1/4" of play between the top of the air cleaner element and the bottom of the airbox ceiling seems this cant be right or what good would the air-cleaner do? looks like I need to pick up some weather stripping but is there supposed to be some sort of actual rubber gasket here? couldn't see one in the bikebandit parts breakdown? Has anyone run a GS engine without the airbox installed? Will it still idle or does it absolutely NEED the airbox installed to hold enough negative pressure to run at all?

        Comment


          #19
          None of the folks who have tried running their bikes without the air box/filter on it have had any success. The most you could do is wrap rags around the carbs for a short term thing but otherwise get the air box back or find some pods and start fighting that mess to jet.
          Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

          1981 GS550T - My First
          1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
          2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

          Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
          Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
          and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

          Comment


            #20
            Did the airbox rebuild with no change to the bike. I believe the tightest valves were about .001 when I had the cover off. While this is tight and needs to be fixed it should not stop the engine from running. Its got to be something else but I am out of ideas as to what

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