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air puffing out of carb
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Tenrilid
air puffing out of carb
Ok folks, I got the newer carb boots on and I have another issue. I've noticed that air is puffing out of the carb when cranking over. What could be causing this? The engine kind of started for a second but I was holding the throttle open and it revved to 3k rpm but when I let off it died out. Could this be caused by bad valve seating? I am at a loss as to what else could be wrong. And yes, carbs have been dipped, o-rings replaced etc etc. Thanks.Tags: None
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JEEPRUSTY
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Cams/crank chain out of time?
Really bad valve clearance?
or Bent valves?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Tenrilid
I had a feeling it had something to do with the valves or cams. I have not tested compression or valve stuffs as I don't have the items to do so. It is still somewhat starting, or more of surging, when I start it with the choke on but as soon as it starts it dies. I guess it's time to take it to a mechanic that can do all the good stuffs with the valves and cams timing/settings
It's not that I couldn't get/do all these things myself, it's just that I've been working on the bike for about a year and I just want to RIDE ALREADY!!Last edited by Guest; 08-05-2011, 05:04 PM.
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Flaming Chainsaws
Setting your valves and cams takes only a day. Look at me. I'm a noob. I did those two on one day and the bike runs great where as before it was backfiring like crazy (part of the problem was the coil wiring). You can do it!
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Tenrilid
I think I will just try a valve and timing adjustment soon. I will ned to guy the little guage thingies and some gaskets. Hopefully I won't have to replace any of the parts inside the head. Thanks for the peptalk though :-)
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Flaming Chainsaws
You may want to take a look through my thread.
There must be 20 pins between #3 and #2. #1 should point at the gasket surface. The camshaft notches don't necessarily have to point directly at each other. Just close.
If you need help, give us a shout!
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Tenrilid
I dig the thread FC but I want to know if the valves would cause this issue that I'm having. If a valve adjustment and timing check will fix it then sweet. I just hope it's not some major issue
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by Tenrilid View PostOk folks, I got the newer carb boots on and I have another issue. I've noticed that air is puffing out of the carb when cranking over. What could be causing this? The engine kind of started for a second but I was holding the throttle open and it revved to 3k rpm but when I let off it died out. Could this be caused by bad valve seating? I am at a loss as to what else could be wrong. And yes, carbs have been dipped, o-rings replaced etc etc. Thanks.
Of course the bike would rev up to 3k when you're holding the throttle open. but it dies as soon as you let go... Hmmm.... Are you using any choke? Maybe the idle is set too low? Let the bike warm up. Try that first.
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Tenrilid
well, another attempt today it surged to 5k but I think that's because the extra fuel it was getting since the choke was on full but again it just died out. I kept trying to get it to do it again w/ different amounts of choke and different throttles but I couldn't get it to do it again. I would love to do things when the engine is warmed up but I can't get it to stay on long enough to do so
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by Tenrilid View Postwell, another attempt today it surged to 5k but I think that's because the extra fuel it was getting since the choke was on full but again it just died out. I kept trying to get it to do it again w/ different amounts of choke and different throttles but I couldn't get it to do it again. I would love to do things when the engine is warmed up but I can't get it to stay on long enough to do so
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Tenrilid
Ok, I'll check the idle screw. I thought I had it all the way in but I may have unscrewed it when I took off the carbs last week. Also, does anyone know an easy or effective way of taking off the valve cover that's was sealed w/ the silicon stuff about 15+ years ago?
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after you've pulled out the bolts, you can take a rubber mallet and give it a small whack on either side to knock it loose. If needed, use a small screwdriver to pry up on it but BE CAREFUL you don't put any gouges into the metal or you'll be fixing an oil leak for a long time to come. Trust me on this.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Flaming Chainsaws
Originally posted by Tenrilid View PostOk, I'll check the idle screw. I thought I had it all the way in but I may have unscrewed it when I took off the carbs last week. Also, does anyone know an easy or effective way of taking off the valve cover that's was sealed w/ the silicon stuff about 15+ years ago?
Turn that huge knob between carbs 2 and 3 a few times clockwise then try again. Or did I misunderstand?
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Tenrilid
Originally posted by Flaming Chainsaws View PostAha! The idle adjustment screw is all the way in. That's why it dies immediately after you let go of the throttle.
Turn that huge knob between carbs 2 and 3 a few times clockwise then try again. Or did I misunderstand?
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