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    Pilot Screw hole stripped

    Well, "stripped" is a bit excessive, because I was able to get it out using a back-and-forth method, but I am hoping that I can chase the threads before reinstalling it.

    Does anyone know off hand what size tap I will need for this? I'm at work right now and it is in the dip, so cannot slap the calipers on it.

    Thanks for any help,
    Chris

    #2
    They may not be stripped unless you used a screwdriver that was too big and scored the threads.
    The back and forth method is common since I do believe Suzuki used some sort of loctite in there or they just oxidize. Did you see the white poweder come out of the threads?
    Rapidray knows the tap size though.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      M6 X 0.5 is what you want. Used it a few times as they can be little buggers.
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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        #4
        Great, thanks! This was carb #4, so I hope to get started reassembling tonight. Fingers crossed, I've never done this before...

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          #5
          Fail!

          Well, after 4 auto parts stores, 3 hardware stores, and a Sears, nobody seems to carry a 6X0.5 I guess they all think carrying a 6X1.0 is sufficient...

          Looks like I'm trying it without first.

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            #6
            Just be careful. Is there visible galling on the carb threads? There should be non on the screw.

            The look like machine threads on mine. They are fine and you would need to be fairly clumsy to cross thread one.
            And some pics would be amusing for us its Friday night and raining folks.

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              #7
              Well, through some combination of anti-sieze, luck, perseverance, and desperation, it seems to have gone in pretty well. It didn't look too bad from what I could see, and it started pretty freely. But then it seemed to 'drag' a bit more in the middle, and freed up again at the end. I'm thinking (hoping) that the free portion at the end will take care of all of the adjustment space I need when I fire things up.

              Now if the intake tubes from partshark would hurry up and get here...

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                #8
                Some anti-seize paste gets pretty thick after its more volatile components evaporate. What kind did you use the regular Permatex would be to thick I would think.

                While parts will not seize the can get pretty gummy.

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                  #9
                  Not sure.

                  I don't remember what it is called, exactly. I don't have it in front of me. It is copper colored, and came in a chapstick-style twist to dispense tube. I have used it on damn near anything I am concerned about binding up for the last few years, and I have not had any problems yet. I will keep that in mind as a potential issue with this, however. Thanks!

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