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Carb cleaner fluids - Safe or not? (Also a filter question)

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    Carb cleaner fluids - Safe or not? (Also a filter question)

    Hi, I am new on these forums and I own a 1982 Suzuki GS1100G(D according to service manual). I have only recently bought it, and I recently noticed a small overflow of fuel, causing it to drop trough the air filter when the bike is on center stand. I would wager this is caused by a stuck float or float needle because the bike seems to have been neglected in the past, judging from the almost black air filter and sand and oil inside the stock air-box (bike has a Marshall Deeptone 4-1 exhaust, I'd guess the jets are stock).

    I wouldn't want to take her apart just yet as I don't have experience from carburetors and I don't have a syncing tool.

    My question is, I have seen carburetor/fuel system cleaning fluids on market, and I would like to try them out. However I am not sure how my bike will react to this and how safe it is to use with the Mikuni BS34SS carbs.

    Any ideas?

    I had to order a new air filter because the old one has been soaked with gasoline and is going mushy (too old I guess). I think I will go with the stock filter for now, but will probably go for something else next summer. Any suggestions?

    My only problem with spare parts is that the bike shops do not stock parts for my bike anymore. Any links for online stores selling suzuki parts that ship internationally would also be appreciated.
    Last edited by Guest; 08-24-2011, 10:41 AM.

    #2
    Safe? Yes for the carb internals
    No for the fire that may result from the carbs still leaking fuel

    Will it fix your problem? - probably not

    You need to take the carbs off and clean them- by taking them all apart and finding out what is wrong inside

    I see Cliff hasn't found you as yet

    1A) (NEW) Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike with an unknown maintenance history. Common maintenance items like clean carbs, properly adjusted valves, no air leaks in the intake system (airbox, carb boots), a clean gas tank (no rust), and a properly functioning petcock are 100% mandatory for the bike to run properly.




    You'll probably need some rejetting for the Deeptone - ask HH about it in your other post
    Last edited by Big T; 08-24-2011, 10:49 AM.
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      Welcome aboard and the short answer is.......there is no shortcut to cleaning carbs.....sorry.

      It may seem intimidating to work on carbs but it really isn't and the carb cleaning tutorial is better than anything else published on the subject and easy to follow. If you are organized and relatively mechanically able you can do it. The hardest part is usually getting them off the first time.

      As to cleaning them, you will need to get some carb cleaning fluid (sold by the gallon or 4 litres) to use as a soak and various screw drivers and cleaning products like small brushes, q-tips, dental picks, tooth picks etc. Its best to have a well lit and clean working space, somewhere ehere you can lay everything out and leave things undisturbed for a day or two. I recommend individual plastic containers large enough for one carb body each to soak in and other individual containers for the bits and pieces of each carb that don't get dipped.

      Take you time and don't rush. Be thorough and do the job right the first time. Make sure you replace the o-rings which you can obtain from Robt. Barr at cycleorings.com (our go to guy).

      BassCiff will be along shortly with his mega welcome and directions to the necessary tutorials, so study up and give it a whirl. You can do it.

      Good luck,
      Spyug

      Comment


        #4
        Thank you for the very warm welcome, and I was kind of expecting to hear this. I am relatively skilled with mechanical instruments, so it is not that much of a problem. I am just a bit of a lazy sod and somewhat unorganized.

        I am actually looking at the order page for the O-rings and I am a bit stumped about the intake boot O-ring selection. What size intake boot O-rings should I go for?

        Comment


          #5
          Assuming this is Robert Barr's site just email him if the page is too confusing.

          You should put your make and model of bike in your signature line to help others.

          It states:
          82 & 83 1100's (2-valve) use 40mm O-rings and 16mm screws.
          But double check with Robert as he will definitely know.
          Last edited by Guest; 08-24-2011, 11:45 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Thank you for your help. I will add the bike description in my signature later today.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by SoanoS View Post
              I am actually looking at the order page for the O-rings and I am a bit stumped about the intake boot O-ring selection.
              What size intake boot O-rings should I go for?
              I just went through this with my '82 1100G.
              The short manifolds take the 40mm O-rings.
              Measure the groove to be certain.
              I thought that I had what I needed in stock with 12 of the 38mm one's.
              I was wrong.
              Mr. Barr was kind enough to get them to me ASAP!
              I NOW have 8 of those as spares also.

              Daniel

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                #8
                Ahh, thanks for the information, I will most likely start working on my carb as soon as I get the rings.

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