Bike in idle and rpm's go up and down then stall...

[Dmajiq]

I have the choke open about half way.

I'm letting it warm up and it revs on it's own then dies down then revs, then stalls...

Any ideas?

i just changed the cylinder head and breather cover gaskets.

And I found out someone in the neighborhood has been messing with my bike.

Last saturday it ran fine and now it's super rough, so I'm not sure what the problem is. it was only an oil leak problem before.

I haven't been on any long rides though so should i clean the carbs next maybe and synch them?

All help is appreciated.
Going to look at bill's website again on how to clean the carbs now.

[azr]

I noticed in another thread you mentioned some banging noises when you rode the bike, is that still happening? For the stalling situation, the bike won't idle by itself for too long with the choke open before stalling. The choke provides a rich mixture for cold starts but once the bike warms up (and this doesn't take too long for a good running bike) the mixture will be too rich and the bike will start to stall. Cleaning the carbs for a bike you just bought and don't know is always a good thing to do.

[Dmajiq]

Thanks AZR

yeah the clanging is still happening, but it wasn't like that last saturday, lol.

I just printed Brian's E-Z and fun plan for GS850 happiness: from BassCliff's website, somehow i thought his name was Bill, and i thought i would just repair / look at things in that order.

next i will check the valve clearances for the clatter, no?

I have another couple of questions though:

Besides a bike running oddly is there a way to look at one carb to see if it's clean, or do you really have to take it completely apart and all the others too? i took the cap of of one and it looked so clean i could eat off it, but i don't know. But like shiny clean.

And the other question is about the petcock. i read somewhere that if you disconnect the hose and gas leaks out that it needs to be replaced. Does that mean if gas continually leaks out to replace it?

Gas dribbles out of my petcock but then stops. it's VM carburetor that i have. So is that gas coming out caught between the chamber and the fuel hose when the engine stopped or do i really have a faulty petcock.

I've found a replacement one, just need to know if i actually need to get it.

[azr]

There is no way to tell how bad your carbs are. You can take off a float bowl (on the bottom of the carb) and it will give you an idea of how dirty/gumbed up your carbs are but that doesn't tell you have bad the passages are and those are the important ones (I'm guessing you took the top bowl/"cap" off, it's always nice and shinny clean up there, there's no gas getting to those parts). With the petcock, if it is set to RUN or RESERVE and fuel, and that's ANY fuel at all, is coming out then your petcock needs replacing/rebuilding. When you first pull the hose off it's normal to have a bit dribble out but after 5 seconds if any fuel is dripping out it's a goner. About your carbs, if you have an 82 850 you're supposed to have CV carbs on there not VM. You had better make sure what you have before you start ordering parts or stripping things down (the carbs don't make a difference to the petcock though).

[Dmajiq]

Ohhhh, u are indeed correct....

I'm drinking a beer and reading too fast i think. Thanks for the correction on the type of carburetor.

Alright that totally explains why I keep smelling gas. Even when i havent ridden, the bike sells like it. so i will order the petcock and the items i will need for a carb clean or see what the guys will charge me at the shop down the street .

At the moment i'm gettin tired of taking the bike apart every weekend.

Let someone else do it for once, haha, unless it's too much money then here i go again.

What I CAN do tomorrow is valve clearance check, oil and filter change and a carb synch. i have everything for that at least.

One more other question. Where is the fuel filter located? I keep checking the diagrams but i can't find it.
And thank you for your help.

[cowboyup3371]

There is no external filter on these bikes as they don't need one. Attached to the petcock is a screen that acts as the filter.

[Dmajiq]

Sweet! One less thing to buy.

I'll be back tomorrow to report my progress. Thank you guys! i love the GS Resources forum.

[FiremanBob]

I don't know about the clanging, but the uneven idle and stalling on my 550 were cured by replacing the poor-quality carb boot o-rings with proper ones from our fellow member Robert Barr. Now it purrs like a fat cat.

[Dmajiq]

Hi fireman bob...

Where are the carb boot o-rings? On the carb bowl? Thank you!

When i read some comments about what to do then go back to tutorial pdf.'s it seems like everything has 2 names. It's really confusing at times and i'm mechanically inclined......

Just ordered the fuel petcock. I need to slow down so i'll wait til it gets here before doing the tune-up too.

My dad is sending me advice too, lol. Take the carbs apart he says.

Ok, ok, i'm taking them apart sheesh next weekend everything gets done.

This weekend relax.

[Tatratbiker850]

The o rings on the "intake boots" are inside of the boot. The rubber that connects your motor to your carbs. Cowboy-- i think you just solved my entire issue with my 850 not starting.. Someone had "installed" an inline fuel filter. Most likely the reason for "air bubbles" and my petcock not priming. Sound right to you? You are my inspiration for not quitting by the way. God knows an 82 850 will push you to your limits though!

[spyug]

For a while you will spend a fair amount of time "ironing out" the issues on any old bike. Its part of owning one. At first it will seem like a royal PITA but given time you will appreciate your bike more and you'll have peace of mind that its a) running right and b) won't strand you somewhere far from home. It takes time and effort. What you put in you'll get back in a sweet running and enjoyable bike.

You do need to clean up the carbs and replace the o-rings. The tutorial is extensive but easy to follow but you need to be through about it. No half measures. Break everything down in the carbs and dip them (except the rubber diaphragms and o-rings, they'll melt) in carb cleaning solution for a minimum of 24 hours. You will be amazed at what gunk comes out of clean looking carbs.

When reassembling, you do need to change the o-rings, even if they look good. The ring can look fine but if you stretch it a little you will almost always find them cracked. The kit is inexpensive from Mr. Barr (cycleorings.com) so don't skimp.

Once the carbs are done you need to make sure the o-rings sealing the intake boots to the head are replaced as well and that the boots themselves are in good shape along with those from the airbox. Any air that can get in past them will cause running problems so keep that in mind.

Once you have a well running bike again, things will seem a lot better and it will become easier to work the other issues. Chip away at it and in no time you'll have that fine ride once again.

Enjoy,
Cheers,
Spyug

[Dmajiq]

Thanks all~

I have 3 days so i'm doing a little bit everyday and hopefully my bike will be up and running sometime next week. My battery died so i had to charge it, slowed things down a bit this morning.

I switched out the fuel petcock so far. I couldn't get the fuel to come out of the old one even when set to prime, so it was messy but it's done.

I really need a helper i think. I have a center stand now but I'm afraid to put the bike on it by myself in case it tips over since i've never attempted this before. Anyone have advice on this?

i was thinking to do the valve adjustments the bike needs to upright, no?

Do i need to take the cylinder head cover off to pull the carbs out?

Robert Barr has supplied me with the o-rings. For now i think i have to put the old boots back on.

So there are airbox boots and carb boots. Can anyone suggest a place for them? Robert Barr again, maybe?

this is an intimidating project and it's biting me in my ass a little bit....it just might force me to get a boyfriend, tho~

[bietau85]

i was thinking to do the valve adjustments the bike needs to upright, no?

Do i need to take the cylinder head cover off to pull the carbs out?

Robert Barr has supplied me with the o-rings. For now i think i have to put the old boots back on.

So there are airbox boots and carb boots. Can anyone suggest a place for them? Robert Barr again, maybe?

this is an intimidating project and it's biting me in my ass a little bit....it just might force me to get a boyfriend, tho~

Carbs are tricky to get out. Disconnect all the clamps. Slide the airbox back as far as possible. You can get the airbox to back further if you unscrew the back plastic fender piece(I forgot the technical name of it) But push it back towards the the tire a lil, and the airbox should scoot back more. i find it easier to pull off from the intake boots first and then off the airbox 2nd with a slight tilt of of the carbs and then I disconnect the choke and throttle cables. If you have the cv carbs with the choke cable holder that sticks upright off of carb 2 then disconnecting that makes things alot easier pulling them through. Just be very careful not damaging and wiring or cables pulling em out. Hopefully this is helpful to you.

[bietau85]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

This should help you alot with the carbs and valves. Actually with virtually anything... Your gonna need a caliper for the carbs by the way.

[azr]

Getting the bike up on it's centre stand is a bit of a grunt but once you've done it once or twice you'll have the hang of it. Just make sure your kick stand is down so if the bike starts to tip away from you, you just lean your body back and the bike will rest on the kick stand...simple eh! Google the process and there will be tons of videos showing it. The bike doesn't have to be on the centre stand to do a valve adjustment but it will make your like easier especially when you start to loosen the bolts on the left side of the valve cover and oil starts to drip down and out since the bike is leaned over. You don't need to pull the cylinder cover (I think you mean the valve cover) to take carbs off. If you're having to buy new airbox and carb boots(wich are called intake boots) any of the suppliers from BikeCliff's site will have them. Robert Barr sells o-rings but not the boots themselves. What is wrong with the boots you currently have? as long as they have no cracks in them and they are somewhat squishy so they provide a good seal to the carbs and the airbox they should be fine.