Replacing Carb Intake Boots - big job?

[Guest]

Although my bike isn't exhibiting any major problems, I've noticed that all of my carb boots are completely wrecked. Like, they've chipped so bad around the edges that they've completely decomposed around where the bolts would attach. They're just being held on by the pipe clamp.

Now I've ridden this bike about three or four thousand miles since I bought it in April, and havn't been effected by the boots yet, so I'm considering putting it off till cooler weather has me riding less.

So, as a noob, I'm kinda intimidated about the whole carb system; jetting, valves, air intake, but I know this has to be done. My question is, will replacing the boots and o-rings likely cause a chain reaction that will lead me to adjusting the carbs further?

What I'm hoping is that replacing the boots will help alleviate the popping during deceleration, which besides taking a while to warm up, is the bike's only (major) problem (at this time).

[Nessism]

Changing the intake boots is not difficult. In my opinion I'd group some work together at the same time though, like going though the carbs and refreshing the various O-rings, vacuum sync, and valve adjustment if you haven't done it in a while. This is all simple basic maintenance.

[ChicagoBob]

The work is easy. It's paying for the parts that's hard.

[LoopGaroo]

Right, that's another reason to put it off...

The work is easy. It's paying for the parts that's hard.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I found this on some guy's website:

Air Intake Repair: Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement

It looks pretty easy.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[bwringer]

Removing the carbs is easy-peasy on a shaftie. Dooooo eeeeet...

And please, don't put off the work one minute longer. You have intake air leaks, you're running very lean and you're likely to burn a couple of exhaust valves.

The bike will run a hell of a lot better, too.


If you run into trouble, there are plenty of friendly, experienced GS-ers in Chicagoland.

[hampshirehog]

It's a no brainer. Wreck your engine or have a bit of fun and learn how to change them. If you get stuck the guys on here will talk you through it. It really is a straightforward job - don't be daunted by all that tubing and cables.

Once you have put on new boots I bet you won't have to adjust anything; your carbs were set up for new boots and I'll just guess that nobody has played around with the settings. Even if you have to adjust things it'll only be a tweak on a screw or two (or four) - you won't be buying jets or raising needles. And when you've done that you'll need to get ready to do it all again in another 20 years or so.

[Nessism]

And please, don't put off the work one minute longer. You have intake air leaks, you're running very lean and you're likely to burn a couple of exhaust valves.

...not adjusting the valves can burn them too (just in case someone reading this doesn't perform this vital maintenance).

[d19407]

I just removed my carbs last week to fix a fuel leak caused by a faulty carb float. The whole job took me about four hours (including the repair).

In my experience, the tricky parts are (at least on my 850):

1) Accessing the carb cables, loosening them and getting them off prior to removal.
2) Tight space removing the air box.
3) Getting the carbs back on – a light grease on the boots can help the process – be prepared to straddle the bike and push all carbs at the same time. Best if you can have a friend help – you hold them in and he/she tightens the clamps. However, it can be done by one person.

So my advice is replace the intake O rings as well as the boots and make sure the clamps that seal the boots to the carbs and the carbs to the air box boots are in good shape. That is to say they tighten up all the way and make a good seal – yet another problem I found on my 850.

Good Luck

[LoopGaroo]

Thanks for the advise guys; I ordered the needed parts.

I'll probably be asking a whole slew of new questions in a couple days once I get to work.

[LoopGaroo]

I pulled the airbox and the carbs last night, no problem. I got about half of the intake boot bolts off with my impact driver and the others are pretty much stuck. I sprayed some PB on the bolts and will try again today.

Another thing - there are three thick black wires that run under the carbs, one was broken, it was a coil-wound wire if i recall correctly. Any idea what that wire is?

I also found $.30 down there...

[fishfarm]

I pulled the airbox and the carbs last night, no problem. I got about half of the intake boot bolts off with my impact driver and the others are pretty much stuck. I sprayed some PB on the bolts and will try again today.

Another thing - there are three thick black wires that run under the carbs, one was broken, it was a coil-wound wire if i recall correctly. Any idea what that wire is?

I also found $.30 down there...

I had to grind the heads off of 3 or 4 with an angle grinder, then removed the studs with vice grips. I had already planned to replace the screws with stainless hex heads anyway.

[LoopGaroo]

Yea, I'm prepared to break out the grinder. I had to do the same thing with my oil filter cover studs.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

...there are three thick black wires that run under the carbs, one was broken, it was a coil-wound wire if i recall correctly. Any idea what that wire is?

There are stator wires under the carbs. These come out of the starter cavity. There is a wire connected to the oil pressure send unit. I snapped a picture when I was replacing the intake boots on mine. Here ya go...

I also found $.30 down there...

I was wondering where I lost that.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[LoopGaroo]

Thanks BassCliff. I'll take a look again when i get home and maybe snap a pic or two.

I think I need images like this for the entire bike!