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GS1100e carb help (1982) (Dynojet kit)

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    #16
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    I am just finishing up a DJIII install/tune with my GPz. I had to purchase larger Mikuni pilot jets from Z1 b/c DJ does not include pilot jets in their kits. Although mine runs cleanly, the wideband indicates a lean condition on the pilots (I don't do chops, so I can't help you there). It is entirely possible that you are in the same boat.
    Your stock pilots should be 45. (I just rebuilt a set of stock 82-82 1100E carbs and read it off the jet.)
    I wish I had a set of stock carbs to work with. Would rather build up from a known set than something I don't completely understand (the modified carbs that came on the bike). I'll get them working, but it sure is nice to have folks here to discuss ideas with!

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      #17
      The Dynojet sizes are confusing if youre trying to getit back to stock. This might help a little http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=64769

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        #18
        Katarat has a good point. Is your goal to go back to stock or to make the pods/pipe/DJ3 kit work correctly? We can help you down either path, but we need to know. One of the reasons I ask is that the DJ main jet numbering system is different from the Mikuni system, as Katarat shows. The numbers you were reading (160, 170) are DJ numbers. They claim the jets taper like the needles, IDK.
        AFA making the combo work, you are almost there. You just need to make a couple of adjustments that DJ failed to provide.
        Personally, I prefer the combo vs. stock on my GPz, it's a hoot.

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          #19
          Thanks Kat and Koolaide. I had that chart for the jet size comparisons, but it's always worth pointing out to folks that the Keihin, Mikuni, and DJ numbering systems are arbitrary and don't line up exactly. I still need to post my spreadsheet that adds the number drill sizes to this list, which is especially useful if you want to drill up a size or just to clear a really plugged jet out to the original size.

          Right now, I don't have either the stock pipes or the stock air box, so I'm trying to get it to run right with the installed V&H 4-into-1 exhaust and the K&N pod filters. I thought the specified Settings for the DJ Stage 3 kit would get me there, but the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking I need to raise the needles.

          But here's what I plan to try first: 1) fatten up the mixture screw and see if that will ease the transition to the high speed circuit (the main jet). 2) partially block airflow through the K&N filters to see if that will let it mix right.

          Finally, I haven't ruled out other things, like did this guy mess with the cam timing?

          Comment


            #20
            Here's one more bit of mystery information: the number 2 and 3 cylinders seem to be burning a lot hotter than the outer jugs 1 and 4, tested by touching the exhaust pipes. This made me think the ignition system could be the culprit. To test this, I first checked spark, and then swapped the plug wires so the 1-4 coil was now on 2-3, and vice versa, plus swapped the firing lines from the igniter to the coils. Same result, 2-3 hotter and 1-4 cooler. In fact, the pipes on the outers can be touched after 30 seconds of idling, but the inner pipes would burn you without a rag.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Ajay View Post
              Here's one more bit of mystery information: the number 2 and 3 cylinders seem to be burning a lot hotter than the outer jugs 1 and 4, tested by touching the exhaust pipes. This made me think the ignition system could be the culprit. To test this, I first checked spark, and then swapped the plug wires so the 1-4 coil was now on 2-3, and vice versa, plus swapped the firing lines from the igniter to the coils. Same result, 2-3 hotter and 1-4 cooler. In fact, the pipes on the outers can be touched after 30 seconds of idling, but the inner pipes would burn you without a rag.
              You sound like you have some experience, but I'll ask anyway:
              Did you fully disassemble the carbs and dip, install new Orings etc?
              With cool pipes after 30 seconds it sounds like you may still have some garbage in the idle circuit.

              Barring that, this is what *I* found to be the best DJ set up for my 83 1100ES..

              DJstage 3 kit
              Stock pilots
              Mains : DJ138
              Needle clip: 3.5 from the bottom (add another washer to get the half clip size)
              160 air jets (popped on decel with 170s)
              Screws generally around 2.5 turns out but tuning them for highest idle would be best. Remember to adjust small and slow and listen carefully. Give the motor a few seconds to catch up to your adjustment.

              Also assure you're slide diaphragms don't have any pin holes or tears. This will cause problems obviously.
              The hole drilled in the slide shouldn't be much bigger than stock. The kit came with two bits..one of which was indicated for use in removing the mix screw plugs. Unfortunately some people don't read instructions thoroughly and often used the much larger bit to drill the slide holes with. They *should* be about an eighth inch or so... Can't remember the bit size off the top of my head. The OTHER bit was more like a 1/4 inch IIRC so if that's the issue, you can epoxy the holes shut, or JBweld, and re drill them.

              A valve clearance adjustment would probably be a very good idea as well. Easy to do (no shims on your bike, tappet adjusters) as this could also be part of the problem, or at least lend more issues to the problem.

              Btw yea my set up was for pod filters, yosh race pipe and either stock or 36mm carbs (from an 1150... Great mod to wake that motor up even more)
              Good luck!

              TCK

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                You sound like you have some experience, but I'll ask anyway:
                Did you fully disassemble the carbs and dip, install new Orings etc?
                With cool pipes after 30 seconds it sounds like you may still have some garbage in the idle circuit.

                Barring that, this is what *I* found to be the best DJ set up for my 83 1100ES..

                DJstage 3 kit
                Stock pilots
                Mains : DJ138
                Needle clip: 3.5 from the bottom (add another washer to get the half clip size)
                160 air jets (popped on decel with 170s)
                Screws generally around 2.5 turns out but tuning them for highest idle would be best. Remember to adjust small and slow and listen carefully. Give the motor a few seconds to catch up to your adjustment.

                Also assure you're slide diaphragms don't have any pin holes or tears. This will cause problems obviously.
                The hole drilled in the slide shouldn't be much bigger than stock. The kit came with two bits..one of which was indicated for use in removing the mix screw plugs. Unfortunately some people don't read instructions thoroughly and often used the much larger bit to drill the slide holes with. They *should* be about an eighth inch or so... Can't remember the bit size off the top of my head. The OTHER bit was more like a 1/4 inch IIRC so if that's the issue, you can epoxy the holes shut, or JBweld, and re drill them.

                A valve clearance adjustment would probably be a very good idea as well. Easy to do (no shims on your bike, tappet adjusters) as this could also be part of the problem, or at least lend more issues to the problem.

                Btw yea my set up was for pod filters, yosh race pipe and either stock or 36mm carbs (from an 1150... Great mod to wake that motor up even more)
                Good luck!

                TCK
                This is extremely helpful. Would really appreciate it if you could read off the drill size from your kit or mic the bit if it's not marked. I'm pretty sure the slides are drilled, but they're definitely not 1/4" holes. (Wow! Who could f-up that badly?! LOL!).

                I'll double check the jet sizes at home, but my current setup sounds the same as yours except for the "half-notch" on the needles.

                I did not do a full tear down and dip, nor were the o-rings replaced. The carbs were pretty clean and the rubber was generally quite good. Ok, I'm lazy, but I also have been doing this for 30 some years (pat on back ). Yeah, I should have, and now I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do it.

                Valve adjustment is a great idea and you're right, this engine is a piece of cake compared to the shim-over-buckets of the earlier motors.

                Hope to get on this over the weekend. Will report back soon. Thanks for your good ideas.

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                  #23
                  Just broke down and bought the O-ring kit from cycleorings.com. I probably have all the larger ones, but definitely not the ones for the mixture screws.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Just want to thank folks for their help with this issue. My son and I went through the carbs Sunday. Two pilots were partially clogged, even though I drilled all four of them. Re-drilled with #78 pin drill. Pulled the bank apart and replaced all o-rings, although they weren't too bad and I don't think that had anything to do with the problems. Raised the needles one notch for grins.

                    Now she revs up nicely, but is loud as can be with a Kerker and no packing in the baffle. Stove rope on order.

                    Can't really say how well she runs, because the tires are pretty dry rotted (new set ordered today), but I did go around the block, keeping the revs low so that exhaust wouldn't shatter my neighbors' windows. Seems ok for now. More testing when the tires are mounted and the exhaust is muffled.

                    Thanks again.

                    Comment

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