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Carb Cleaning 101, no 202, no 303

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    Carb Cleaning 101, no 202, no 303

    OK, my 81 850GX still has a dead cylinder on #4. I have taken the carbs apart twice and dipped them. Cylinder #3 was dead (along with #4) before the last cleaning, but it now works. Each time on #4 there is some thick fluid (it looks like dried carb dip fluid) coming from somewhere in the top of the carb. It looks like it is coming from the 3 little holes in the top of the main passage where the throttle plate hits.

    The first time there was just a run down the passage that got really hard when it dried. I didn't notice it because I had a knee replacement a couple of days after they were rebuilt so I forgot about the carbs for a month or so. It was so hard that an ice pick didn't make much of a dent in it. The second time the fluid flowed around the throttle plate and left a crusty solid ring following where the plate forms up next to the main air passage. I caught it soon enough that I cleaned up what was around the throttle plate.

    How can I finally get all the crap out of the carb? It set for 24 hours both times and I rotated the carb in the bath at about 12 hours. I tried to blow it out with air and even ran water through all the passages I could find. The 3 little holes are clean as I can run a wire through each of them.

    Where is this stuff coming from and how can I finally clean up where the fluid and junk is sitting? I have read all the tutorials but am missing something really basic...

    #2
    Water defeats the purpose of the carb dip

    Try dipping the body, then spraying out the passages with carb cleaner with the tube sprayer
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      I boiled my carb bodies in water with lemon juice, I think it was for 30 minutes. Maybe the boiling water moving around would free it up?

      Comment


        #4
        Blow out the orifices with carb spray.

        Comment


          #5
          Compressed air through the passages and boil the bodies but not vigorously, just a gentle ripple across the surface of the solution.

          Comment


            #6
            Hi,

            I have read on this forum that sometimes it takes two, three, or four cleanings to get the carbs really clean. Follow the guides linked on my website and be as thorough as possible. Keep up the good work.


            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
              Hi,

              I have read on this forum that sometimes it takes two, three, or four cleanings to get the carbs really clean. Follow the guides linked on my website and be as thorough as possible. Keep up the good work.


              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff
              My personal experience is that I have never gotten carbs right on the first try. A Katana 600 once took me four tries, but it had a rusty fuel tank. I must suck as a mechanic.

              Comment


                #8
                Spray each passage with carb spray good and hard.
                (you're probably going to get it all over your hands and eyes so wear protection.)

                Then run threw everything with compressed air.
                Not can air, but air from a compressor.

                I load my compressor to about 40-80psi.
                For a spray nozzle, I just use a cheap $5 one from wal-mart, it's Blue and sold in the automotive area near the compressor and air-tool stuff.

                Its a good idea to repeat this process multiple times, to ensure everything is cleared out.

                Never assume it's clean....keep blasting the passages until you know it's good.

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