I want to put pods on my completely stock 77 gs750

[Guest]

Not for performance as I just putt around on her.

The stock airbox started deteriorating and sending rotten bits into the carbs. I figured this out on about the third teardown and cleaning of her carbs. I put a new shop rag on each carb and she runs pretty good. I also promised her I would not put that stock airbox back on her.

I think pods look great and I do not intend or desire to do any mods to her.

Is there a good pod set that will bolt on and not cause a bad lean condition with the stock exhaust (slightly leaky - a little louder than stock but not loud enough to bother trying to seal it up) and the stock jets? If not, what jet size should I move up to to start?

[Nessism]

APE pods seem to be the value leader in quality pods, but I'm unaware of any pods that are a direct bolt-on without rejetting. As far as rejetting goes, the easiest thing to do is buy a premade jet kit from Dynajet or maybe Factory Pro. Between the pods and a jet kit you are going to be into the bike for at least $150, and plan on some trial and error experimentation before you get the jetting just right.

Good luck

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, adding pod filters will mandate a jetting change. No way around it. If you don't want to mess with jetting, try to find another airbox on Ebay or in the Parts Wanted section here in the forum.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[MisterCinders]

APE pods seem to be the value leader in quality pods, but I'm unaware of any pods that are a direct bolt-on without rejetting. As far as rejetting goes, the easiest thing to do is buy a premade jet kit from Dynajet or maybe Factory Pro. Between the pods and a jet kit you are going to be into the bike for at least $150, and plan on some trial and error experimentation before you get the jetting just right.

Good luck

I don't think there is a pre-packaged jet kit for his bike. There weren't any for mine, and I recall that was because of the VM carbs.

If you go to pods, you will need to re-jet, do it without any kit to guide you, and probably have to go in an out of the carbs several times to get it right.

On the upside, the carbs are easy to pull on and off with pods. Also, the extra jets you need (couple sizes up on mains, maybe an increased pilot jet) are not that expensive. You could spend about $20 on jets from Z1 and be in business. It is the trial and error that is the hardest part.

[Nessism]

I don't think there is a pre-packaged jet kit for his bike. There weren't any for mine, and I recall that was because of the VM carbs.

If you go to pods, you will need to re-jet, do it without any kit to guide you, and probably have to go in an out of the carbs several times to get it right.

On the upside, the carbs are easy to pull on and off with pods. Also, the extra jets you need (couple sizes up on mains, maybe an increased pilot jet) are not that expensive. You could spend about $20 on jets from Z1 and be in business. It is the trial and error that is the hardest part.

Good point about the VM carbs. My bad.

Good news is VM's are easier to tune than CV's, bad news is no jets kits.

It's a whole lot simpler and cheaper to stay with the stock parts.

[Geno67]

She is actually running really good with just one layer of cotton shop rag over each carb.

I have been in and out of them 3 times now including reinstalling the pita stock airbox. Once or twice more should be easy as they come right off with the box removed.

Since I am leaving the exhaust stock I think no pilot jet change and one, maybe two steps up on the mains. I intend to call z1 tomorrow, too late tonight and check on jet pricing. A little lean won't really bother me, a lot is no good though.

What size are the stock mains on these?

[Geno67]

Answered my own question in minutes. Dur.

Engine number 27231 so Main jet size = #100

Step ups available from z1 in 2.5 increments at $1.74 each.

What size should I start with? #102.5 or #105?

I ordered a set of pods made by Emgo on the advice of a local Custom bike builder. They are the smallest decent quality pods available and therefor the most restrictive. The APE and K&N pods are huge comparatively speaking as they are made to increase airflow for highly modded engines. I have no engine mods so increased airflow is counter-productive for my needs.

[hampshirehog]

Too low - I would start with 120s and needles raised one notch. Should be able to dial in the low end on the fuel screws.

And fix the exhaust leak.

[Geno67]

Too low - I would start with 120s and needles raised one notch. Should be able to dial in the low end on the fuel screws.

And fix the exhaust leak.

You really think I would need that much of a jump with no pipe? I agree on the low end.

[Octain]

You really think I would need that much of a jump with no pipe? I agree on the low end.

The exhaust has less to do with jetting than the intake.
Many change pipes with no real jetting issues but I have never heard of anyone changing intake without a major jet change.

[cableguy]

Wrap your rags around the pods and go. heh

[Geno67]

Wrap your rags around the pods and go. heh

Would probably work fine.

[Octain]

Would probably work fine.

Might work for a while but I would worry about the inconsistency of the air flow.

[hampshirehog]

You really think I would need that much of a jump with no pipe? I agree on the low end.

Yes. But you need to fix the exhaust leak as well.

[TheCafeKid]

117.5 is probably where you want to be. 120 IIRC on my cafe was too fat. But since they're cheap, get both, that way you're sure you have what you need. Stock pilot will be fine, one turn out on the fuelscrews,(bottom ones) 1.75 on the air screws (side ones) should be ok, maybe a little less. Yes, needle probably needs to be one clip slot down (move it toward the point) from stock, maybe one and a half, or two. No two bikes are the same, so there's a little trial and error here. The birch of it is, every time you pull the slides to move the needle on these, you have to resync... I'd split the difference, get some extra small washers for the needle clip spacers (the thin metal ones, not the thick plastic ones) and move it to 1.5 spaces below stock (meaning put the clip two spaces below stock, but double up the washers). The bike should pull from nothing to WFO without stumble or bucking. RPMs have little to do with it, throttle opening position is key in determining which circuit is a problem. It may help, when dialing it in, to mark off your throttle in 1/4 opening increments. 0-1/4 will be low speed/maintenance throttle circuit, 1/4-3/4 is needle, 3/4-WOT is main.

Let us know.