Doin' carbs on my GS1150

[Tazman001]

and came across something odd after I broke one of the main jets. (anybody have one 122.5 BTW?) The fische says there are two different jets used(see pics):





The fische says the carbs use 120(s) and 122.5(s). Does anybody know which jets go in which carbs? How do I read the fische? Anybody know what the abbreviations in the fische mean? Like the RH, LH, ML, MR mean? I'm guessing here the RH, LH mean Right Hand (#4)carb, and Left Hand (#1)carb. And the ML, MR to mean Middle Left(#2), and Middle Right (#3)carb. That would be just backwards of what my carbs have. The carbs I pulled off have 122.5 in #1, and 120 in #2 carbs. Is this correct for a stock factory setup? Smaller jets mean less gas, more air, leaner mixture, right? I want richer mixture in the center two cylinders since they would run hotter, right? Running everthing stock, air filter, air filter box, exhaust & carbs. They have been off the bike before as all the black paint was stripped off, and they have evidence of a bad carb "rebuild".Thanks for any help guys.

[Nessism]

Yes, rich in the center carbs.

[7981GS]

Less than $3.00 each from Z1 enterprises.

Daniel

[Tazman001]

Less than $3.00 each from Z1 enterprises.

Are they the OEM Mikunis? I don't trust the aftermarket ones. Never seem to fit/work as good as the OE.

[Nessism]

Dennis Kirk sells real Mikuni jets.

[Tazman001]

Jets from dennis kirk

they have the mains for $5.99 a two pack. Gonna pick 'em up there. Really snockered this pilot jet up getting it out:



picked up a couple off of the ebay, here's one:



looks much better I think.

[Tazman001]

Procedure for cleaning carbs

developed my own procedure for cleaing carbs. This is the second set. First was the GS750, now this one. Getting better each time. First disassembled them down to a point where the varnish stopped me. Second I cleaned them with a degreaser(purple power). Third I sprayed them down with carb cleaner. Fourth I soaked them each in a sealed gallon can of real gas without ethanol for a week(loosend up all the varnish). Five I removed them from gasoline and took out the rest of the brass parts that were varnished in(pilot jets, jet needle, needle valves & seats). Note: found a really neat way to get out a stuck pilot jet; heat pilot jet housing with an acetelyne torch, stick a really cold jet specific screwdriver(chilled in ice water) down the housing, contact the jet to chill it for 40-60 seconds to shrink it, and screw it out. Six I sprayer down the carb again with carb spray. Seven soak it in gasoline again for a couple of days. Eight I removed it from the gasoline and blew out the internal passages with compressed air(nasty black varnish and gunk came out). Nine I sprayed it down again with carb cleaner. At this point the carb was probably 90% clean. Ten I soaked the carb in carb dip for about two hours. Eleven I took it out and washed it off with clean water. Twelve I sprayed it down again with carb cleaner. Thirteen I soaked most of the brass in the carb dip for 2 days. When finished with this they looked presentable. Chilling that jet made it come out of there like it was mounted in teflon. Really slick!! Now I just need to get on the ball and order the o-rings from cycleorings.com. Whooo, who!

[Guest]

Good lord! Wish I was your chemical supplier ;-)

Sci85

[GateKeeper]

developed my own procedure for cleaing carbs. This is the second set. First was the GS750, now this one. Getting better each time. First disassembled them down to a point where the varnish stopped me. Second I cleaned them with a degreaser(purple power). Third I sprayed them down with carb cleaner. Fourth I soaked them each in a sealed gallon can of real gas without ethanol for a week(loosend up all the varnish). Five I removed them from gasoline and took out the rest of the brass parts that were varnished in(pilot jets, jet needle, needle valves & seats). Note: found a really neat way to get out a stuck pilot jet; heat pilot jet housing with an acetelyne torch, stick a really cold jet specific screwdriver(chilled in ice water) down the housing, contact the jet to chill it for 40-60 seconds to shrink it, and screw it out. Six I sprayer down the carb again with carb spray. Seven soak it in gasoline again for a couple of days. Eight I removed it from the gasoline and blew out the internal passages with compressed air(nasty black varnish and gunk came out). Nine I sprayed it down again with carb cleaner. At this point the carb was probably 90% clean. Ten I soaked the carb in carb dip for about two hours. Eleven I took it out and washed it off with clean water. Twelve I sprayed it down again with carb cleaner. Thirteen I soaked most of the brass in the carb dip for 2 days. When finished with this they looked presentable. Chilling that jet made it come out of there like it was mounted in teflon. Really slick!! Now I just need to get on the ball and order the o-rings from cycleorings.com. Whooo, who!

You must work with some very very very dirty carbs............


Mine sat in a bucket of Pine Sol for 24 hours, scrubbe a t bit with a brush on the outside, completely stripped them down to bits and pieces, found almost no trace of any kind of gunk, poked every hole with a wire, and wire wheeled all the brass parts, new O rings were put in and assembled.

I did take off the top caps and pulled out the slides/diaphragms before soaking

So far so good

[Tazman001]

Main jet locations:

Well I was taking a more detailed look at the fische and viola the answer came to me. Looking at the numbers in the first column for the carbs, they are listed in the third column as the corresponding letters, ie. RH, LH, MR, ML. I guess reading the fische more extensivly helps. See image below:

[UncleMike]

That's in the initial image you posted as well.

[blowerbike]

run 125's all the way across if you haven't ordered the 122.5's yet.

[Tazman001]

New carb tools!

Well doing the carbs I twisted some of the threads out of the No 1 float bowl. I decied to rethread it and clean up the threads on the float bowl bolt. My employer's shop had the tap but no die, so I searched for a die, and the only place I could find it reasonably was ebay. All the rest of the tool suppliers (if they had it) wanted 20-$40 for it.



And I was looking at the carb rebulid tutorial and liked the tool made to check the fuel level. I decied to make one myself.



I'm pleased with it, and I suppose that's all that counts.