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    Carb removal

    I'm removing the carbs on my GS1000s as I need to fit a new (to me) starter motor. I've tried for 30min to get the starter motor bolted in without removing the carbs and I'm nowhere near.

    Quick question. Would you remove the carbs from the rubber boots, or unbolt the rubber boots from the engine and take the carbs with it?

    I've got some O rings from cycleorings just in case BTW.

    #2
    You have an S!! Let's see some pictures.

    I removed the carbs on my S for the 1st time this year. I was doing a rebuild.

    I had pods which heled to make the job a little easier.

    I removed the pods and then loosened up the clamps from the intake boots and popped the carbs out.

    When I reinstalled them with the stock airbox, I wa expecting it to be a tough job, having read a lot of threads with people having a hard time installing the carbs into the tight space. Suprisingly, it only took me a couple of minutes.

    I think it was easy due to the fact that I had all new intake boots.

    I think it would be a tough job getting to the intake boot screws with the carbs in place.

    So my vote is to remove the carbs from the boots.

    Comment


      #3
      The procedure for removing carbs is usually: loosen the airbox from the frame (so it can move back, giving about 1/2" more room), unclamp the boots from the airbox to the carbs, unclamp the boots from the carbs to the intake boots (the ones on the engine), loosen the clamp for the "choke" cable, move the airbox back, pull the carbs out of the intake boots, slide the carbs out part-way to the right, remove the "choke" and throttle cables.

      Installation is, of course, the reverse.

      Since you are replacing the intake boot o-rings, why not also pull your cam chain tensioner and replacing it's o-rings? If not replacing the o-rings, I would at least make sure the tensioner was operating the way it should. Too many times, it is installed incorrectly, preventing it from doing its job properly.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment


        #4
        Ta I'll get on it.
        I'll put some pictures up when the fairing comes back from the painters - a PO had run it down the road a bit!

        Comment


          #5
          The airbox is in 2 parts. Steve describes the procedure well but I would add remove the back part of the airbox from the bike. Undo the big circular clip under the seat and the single bolt on the LH side rear and just tug the thing out.
          79 GS1000S
          79 GS1000S (another one)
          80 GSX750
          80 GS550
          80 CB650 cafe racer
          75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
          75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post

            Since you are replacing the intake boot o-rings, why not also pull your cam chain tensioner and replacing it's o-rings? If not replacing the o-rings, I would at least make sure the tensioner was operating the way it should. Too many times, it is installed incorrectly, preventing it from doing its job properly.

            .
            Not to hijack the thread, but a quick question on the cam chain tensioner, I will assume it can be removed at any time, to be inspected, worked on, and so on, and put back in. It will not cause the chain to fall off, move or what ever, if while the tensioner is out nothing is moved with respect to the motor itself, ie not started or cranked.

            I want to just remove and clean up, and replace O ring....

            Will this be OK ?

            Thanks

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by GateKeeper View Post
              Not to hijack the thread, but a quick question on the cam chain tensioner, I will assume it can be removed at any time, to be inspected, worked on, and so on, and put back in. It will not cause the chain to fall off, move or what ever, if while the tensioner is out nothing is moved with respect to the motor itself, ie not started or cranked.

              I want to just remove and clean up, and replace O ring....

              Will this be OK ?

              Thanks
              Yes - just follow the instructions in the manual (detail on how to pull the thing out is important) and don't turn the engine at all.
              79 GS1000S
              79 GS1000S (another one)
              80 GSX750
              80 GS550
              80 CB650 cafe racer
              75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
              75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks, I don't have a manual, but I will see if I can find something online to help me out

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GateKeeper View Post
                  Thanks, I don't have a manual, but I will see if I can find something online to help me out
                  If you kept Cliff's welcome you have a manual. Just in case you lost it here it is again:

                  79 GS1000S
                  79 GS1000S (another one)
                  80 GSX750
                  80 GS550
                  80 CB650 cafe racer
                  75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
                  75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks,,,,,I just double checked and that is what I have and from where I got it....

                    All is good....

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
                      The airbox is in 2 parts. Steve describes the procedure well but I would add remove the back part of the airbox from the bike.
                      Sorry, I keep forgetting that the airboxes on the chain-driven bikes are not like the shafties that I usually work on.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi all

                        Got the starter motor bolted in without getting the carbs off in the end. Bit of a shame as I would probably have learnt a bit, but meant I could go for a ride today instead of spannering up. And didn't mess anything up.

                        All this air filter business. I know that it's a departure from stock, but I'm always pretty glad that I've got pods - the PO fitted them and the bike didn't come with an airbox. Don't know if the old airboxes would fit the new carbs he put in either.

                        pearcey

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