Is it ok to just install the new screw and leave that tip broken off in there? If not, does anyone have any tips to get that thing outta there? I've tried PB blaster, a huge assortment of tools, and a little swearing...
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Pilot fuel screw tip stuck
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Pendulum
Pilot fuel screw tip stuck
For those of you that didn't see my last thread... All 4 of my pilot fuel screws had their tips broken off in my carb bodies. I used some dental picks to get 3 of the 4 out. I spent a good 15-20 minutes on one carb last night and can not get that last tip out. It's not visible from the top any more (not poking through).
Is it ok to just install the new screw and leave that tip broken off in there? If not, does anyone have any tips to get that thing outta there? I've tried PB blaster, a huge assortment of tools, and a little swearing...Tags: None
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You have got to get that bit out. Do a search - there are 101 ways of getting the blighters out. Small punch sounds like it might be called for.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Pendulum
Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostYou have got to get that bit out. Do a search - there are 101 ways of getting the blighters out.
I've tried every method I've seen, but I'll dig around some more. The only thing I haven't done is heat... I don't have a torch, but I'll buy one if it'll do the job.
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Pendulum
Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
Of course!
Like I said, I've used dental picks and an assortment of other tools ranging from a scratch awl to picks of varying diameters, angles, colors, and sexual orientation. The other 3 popped right out within 30 seconds; this one held tight even after 15-20 minutes. The carb body already soaked in Berrymans overnight, too.
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Try boiling the carb in a pan of water with a drop of detergent added (just a drop or it'll all be over the floor). The heat and very process of boiling often helps shift obstinate things made from 2 different metals.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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BassCliff
Hi,
Yes, that last tip has to come out. Is there a machine shop around where you can take it? Perhaps they can carefully drill it out.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Pendulum
Originally posted by BassCliff View PostHi,
Yes, that last tip has to come out. Is there a machine shop around where you can take it? Perhaps they can carefully drill it out.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
And all I wanted was some advice...
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Originally posted by Pendulum View PostI took the carb body into work to try to get some ideas from our lead fabricator, and he said "That's the fuel screw, right?" and snatched the carb from me. He said "Just give me some time." and walked off. An hour later I had the carb back, with the screw removed and cleaner than when he took it.
And all I wanted was some advice...sigpic
Steve
"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
_________________
'79 GS1000EN
'82 GS1100EZ
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BassCliff
Hi,
Well, I think you should buy your friend a beer!
Knowing a good machinist is a good thing. It sounds like you work at a pretty neat place.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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silverhorse47
It's great that your friend got the tip out. I think though, that the tip of those screws are tapered, and that the shape of the 'hole' they're in is also tapered to match, and that the relationship between the two is important to fuel delivery. If the aluminum hole is damaged (say by an inexperienced mechanic turning the steel screws down hard and snapping off the screws) that adjustment will be impossible.
This is why all carb adjustments involving screws begin with the phrase "turn the screw in until it JUST bottoms".
Please let me know if this turns out to be the case with yours?
And, good luck.
S.
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