79 GS1000 with CV carbs is this correct

[SVSooke]

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/how_to_post_pictures.pdf

The best way to post pics here or any other place.

[bomber737]

Ok Ill try that. I was hoping to not have to pull the boots. I am really leary of having the screws shear off and having to pull the head. I thought I would clean the carbs and put them back on without the air filter in place and see it it runs first. Prob spray carb cleaner around the intake side of the boots and see if it changes the way the bike runs. I am hoping they are still sealed and if they are not I can change the o ring out then. It will be just a matter of pulling the carbs again. like I said, the boots are not cracked and are still pliable. That is unless the concensus her is that I wont shear those screws. This is my first Suzuki, I just know what has happened with a bunch of the Yamaha's I have done in the past.

[Octain]

I'd do the oring on the boots now, while the carbs are off. For one, it will eliminate and issues you could end up looking for once ya get it all put back together.
For two, pulling the carbs suck.

The intake boots are indeed prone the bust lose. I like to hit em with PB Blaster several times a day for about a week before I even think about removing em.(I treat carb bolts and containing parts in the carbs the same way)
A good impact screw driver is a must. If ya dont have one, get one. A couple of assorted sized extensions might be required as well. Once ya get one screw out per intake you can rotate the intake to losen the other one.

You'll be glad you did it.
One of those "while you're there" kinda things.
Lots of that goes on with these bikes

[chuck hahn]

With the airbox and carbs out of the way you should have enough room to use an impact driver. Lots of peole say to use some penetarting oil too. Ive never used anything except a rap or two with the impact and they screw right out. I would replace the old phillips head ones with allen heads too. Much easier to get a good snug torque when putting them back on...or if you need to take them off again in the future.

[Nessism]

I thought I would clean the carbs and put them back on without the air filter in place and see it it runs first. Prob spray carb cleaner around the intake side of the boots and see if it changes the way the bike runs. I am hoping they are still sealed and if they are not I can change the o ring out then.

You are following the trail of newbie mistakes...

Best read this... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

[FLHGSRay]

Change the intake boot o-rings. They're just as apt to break off later as they are now.

[keman]

Change the intake boot o-rings. They're just as apt to break off later as they are now.

I agree. The trick to getting the screws out is to use a drift punch. Place the punch on the side of the screw head and give it a couple raps with a hammer. The issue is the head of the screw binding to the surface of the boot flange.

You might also want to invest in a set of Japanese Phillips drivers as well since none of the screws on these bikes are SAE. SAE drivers will just round out the screws.

[blowerbike]

you have to use a #3 Phillips ladies.
#2 just f*cks em up.

[Sandy]

you have to use a #3 Phillips ladies.
#2 just f*cks em up.

What he said and if you remove the airbox, battery, rear wheel and pop out the inner plastic fender you can get at them with an impact driver and extension. It's easy.

[blowerbike]

#3 bit/extension/racket/air racket if you have it.
shock em with a hammer against the extension/bit helps.
some times you just have to spin them out with a chisel....
its not like they have been in the same place for 30 years un-touched

[keman]

3 SAE Phillips will round them out. They are jis pitch heads. A 3 on an impact works most of the time, but still damages the screw. But if you think it doesn't make a difference, ...cause tearing the whole back of the bike apart to get at eight screws just sounds like fun. ..

The way I suggested earlier in the thread has worked well on eight or ten bikes I have had to do this with.

[FLHGSRay]

I agree. The trick to getting the screws out is to use a drift punch. Place the punch on the side of the screw head and give it a couple raps with a hammer.

I did this once on the tach drive screw on my Z1 and knocked a big hole in the head casting. Talk about a sick feeling. I had done it a hundred times before and have done it a few times since, but I do everything to avoid it now. Knocked a half-dollar size hole in it by the front cam and the tach drive and screw fell out on the floor. Bummer.

[blowerbike]

20+ years here on GS's..
plus a bucket of perfect phillips from engines i have busted apart.
the screws getting messed up are from the people using #2's on them.
anyways....people can do what they want as i don't get paid for information.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Might I suggest re-reading the "mega-welcome" and all of the information contained in the links therein? It could save you a TON of frustration.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[bomber737]

Well there you have it, I will be replacing the intake o-rings. Now to just get them off. I found a vise grip on the screw heads worked on the carb rack. I was also successful at getting them on of a GS850 I got running for a friend. I will be definitely going with new jets and a new air screw. I always replace those parts, it's just easier to start with perfectly clean. The float bowls had sludge in the bottom of them. It was like tar and the rubber stoppers were ruined. Another thing that got ruined was in these carbs there was a wire wrapped around the fuel needle seat. It seemed to hold the fuel needle from coming out of the to far. Can you still get these? I read the what not to do so here goes the refresh. While I have the GS experts looking at my thread, what is the correct float level setting for my carbs?

Thanks to all for your replies.