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Simple job turned into nightmare.

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    #16
    cheers for the help all, tried to put a nut on it today but just cant get it to bite, thread maybe damaged... so maybe welding is next... trying to find someone with a welder for two seconds worth of world

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      #17
      Some of the bolts go all the way through to the area where the spark plugs are. You might be able to treat it from the backside as well. Generally speaking these are best dealt with by drilling out, one step bit at a time until the bolt can be picked out of the hole.

      I used studs on mine so this will never happen to me. The stud kit was about 12 dollars, worth every penny.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #18
        This doesn't look like a job for a person who can't drill an on-centre, in-line hole, with a hand held drill while lying on their side on the ground, and have confidence doing so. Such people do exist, however. For sure the collars and pipes have to be removed, and chances will be better with the wheel removed as well. I would probably remove the head and put it on the bench, but I'm old.
        Duane is correct when he says it should be done in increments, from a small diameter bit to one just smaller than the thread size of the bolt. This is exactly the point at which one would normally use an easy out with success.
        Easy outs are great tools, and they do break when too much is asked of them. However, they do not break when they are asked to do what they claim to do....which is remove a small shell of metal with a bit of thread attacked to it, from a seized hole in a vital engine part.
        I get that people have had bad experiences with them, and it is indeed awkward when they snap off. But they don't snap off if enough metal is drilled out, a bit at a time, from the core of the seized bolt. They do break if hammered into a skinny little hole in a huge bolt and apply massive torque to them. In my experience, it harder to drill the first small holes in the bolt, than to actually use the easy out to advantage.
        When properly applied they work like magic in the worst of conditions. Take your time. Use high quality bits. Get your hole started square and true, and then go right through to the bottom of the bolt till you feel the bit exit. Go easy. Use lots of cutting fluid. Then back the bit out and drill again with the next size up. When the bolt has only a wee shell of metal holding the threads together, use the easy out.

        S.

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          #19
          If you decide to drill make a drill guide from a piece of aluminum in a drill press that can assist in the process. Start with the smallest size of about 1/8 inch. Then every step of the drill bit size return it to the drill press and drill the guide hole first. This takes time, and that is what you need to take.

          Eventually the guide hole will get to 1/4 inch which is darn near the bolt wall. I would pick out the remains, run a tap through the threads to finish it, and consider it done.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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