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tool for idle fuel adjust

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    tool for idle fuel adjust

    Is there a right-angle screwdriver or something that can be used to adjust the idle fuel screws on the 2 inside carbs of my '77 GS750? I can get at the ourside carbs screws but just cannot get my big hands in to adjust the inner ones while the bike is running. What do you guys use?

    Brian

    #2
    There is a carb-specific tool that holds the lock nut while you can rotate the adjusting screw. Someone else will chime in with the part number/brand. It makes it very simple and easy to adjust the carbs.

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      #3
      Actually, Kid, he is looking for the right-angle one to do the fuel screws on the VM carbs, not the CVs.

      Brian, yes, there is a tool, it's made by Motion Pro. Click HERE to see it. It is about $21 from Z1 Enterprises.

      Bascially, you preset the fuel screws before putting the carbs back on, then do all your fine-tuning with the air screws on the side, but if you need to do any adjustments with the carbs on the bike, that is the tool.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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        #4
        Yes, Steve that is what I had in mind. I just did a full cleaning, new orings etc. and just put idle fuel screws at the default 1 turn out. But now that I can run the bike I find that, if I open up the screws a bit on the outside carbs, I get an increase in RPMs. So I was wanting to do the same on the inside carbs.

        I suppose I could take the carbs off again and set the inside carbs the same as the newly adjusted outside carbs. Probably about 1 1/4 turns out.

        But maybe what you are saying is that I could have gotten the same effect by adjusting the air screws

        Thanks for the info.

        Brian

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          #5
          Exactly where you set your pilot fuel screws will depend on your engine setup. If you are totally stock, as in intake airbox and exhaust, the fuel screws should be turned out about 3/4 turn. If you are running pods or a pipe, 7/8 to 1 turn might work. For pods and a pipe, 1 to 1 1/4 turns, depending on which pods and which pipe. The pilot air screw should be set to double the amount of the fuel screw as a starting point. When the bike is warmed up, slowly tweak the air screw to get highest idle speed, this shows the engine is making the most of what its burning. Personally, after setting the air screws, I go back and tweak them again, just to make sure that it's the best setting. You will also need to to a carb sync at this time.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment


            #6
            I saw one of those screwdrivers once, really cool, never seen one before,
            used most in adjusting carb air, pilot screws.
            Maybe I should get one myself, save me from taking the tank on and off numerous times. Here's a fairly inexpensive one (as they do get rather expensive) from Bikebandit.

            sigpic
            Steve
            "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
            _________________
            '79 GS1000EN
            '82 GS1100EZ

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              #7
              i have the one that steve mentioned and it is wonderful. no more burnt arms or hands. i did make a slight modification to mine. on the bit side it has some kind of a crescent shaped extension. i took my bench grinder and shaved that part off. now it works like a charm.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by shinzon1 View Post
                i have the one that steve mentioned and it is wonderful. no more burnt arms or hands. i did make a slight modification to mine. on the bit side it has some kind of a crescent shaped extension. i took my bench grinder and shaved that part off. now it works like a charm.
                The one I posted and the one Steve posted seem to be the same one by different vendors. Got to get me one someday.
                sigpic
                Steve
                "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." :cool:
                _________________
                '79 GS1000EN
                '82 GS1100EZ

                Comment


                  #9
                  I just use a screwdriver bit for a drill, stuck in a small socket, (1/4" maybe?) held in my fingers.
                  Thin gloves prevent the burning of hands if the engine is too hot.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I too have the motion Pro tool and the modification is nessary. Abench grinder is all it takes. I am using it on a 77 550 and i believe I still cant reach one of the carbs. No big deal but the clearance is too small.
                    GS Score Card
                    4-400 Series GS's
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                    2-1100 series 1982 GS1100G In stable now
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