carb sync tool

[old_skool]

How the heck do you sync the carbs if your intakes don't even have a vacuum port?????

[pete]

How the heck do you sync the carbs if your intakes don't even have a vacuum port?????

Mine aren't on the boots they're on the head...

[LoopGaroo]

I rode today for the first time after balancing my carbs with the CarbTune. My bike is now very quiet at stop lights, less handlebars vibrations, and the clutch rattle is down maybe 30% It even started without the choke!

I scraped the hell out of my hands and cursed many times getting those adapter and allen bolts in & out of the vacuum ports. I ended up just taking the whole rack out to save some skin. I went ahead and ordered the brass adapters from Z1 to hopefully make it easier next time around.

After I got everything set up, the balancing part was very easy. It maybe took 10 minutes; I guess my bench synch was pretty close.

[old_skool]

How the heck do you sync the carbs if your intakes don't even have a vacuum port?????

yeah, so are mine, little differences between bikes faked me out for a sec.

[86Gs1150]

Thanks everyone I ordered the carbtune and got the brass adapters ordered direct took only a week to get.

[Koff]

Thanks for all this info.

Ordered the carbtune and colortune and adapaters and the hex tool and should be set once it all gets to me.

[JimmyR]

I just synched (sunk?) my carbs with a cheapy Emco 4 gauge meter thing. In my manual it says that when using the Suzuki carb tuner have the outside two cylinders slightly higher than the inside two. So I had to pretty much guess how to set them. I set the outside two cylinders just slightly higher, but who knows if it's the right amount?

So I got them where I felt they should be, took everything apart again to remove the brass probe bits and replace the plug screws. There was no way I was going to be able to replace the plug screws without taking off the carbies again. What a PITA! I discovered that my bike was pretty close to being in synch anyway. I did set all of the meters the same as recommended.

Problem is that the bike doesn't run any better now, in fact it won't start right now! It is a very hot day here today so I am hoping that by letting it cool down for a bit it will start again.

BTW what is "highest idle" carb tuning? I did notice that when I adjusted the screw on carb 4 the revs went up, but then when I set it according to the meter it went down again. I'm starting to despair of my tech skills on this bike! I have set the tappets correctly, the timing is spot on, I have stripped down the carbies at least three times to clean them incredibly thoroughly and make sure all the screws and jets are right, have a brand new petcock, new fuel and vacuum lines, done everything I can think of and sometimes it runs beautifully then the next day runs like a dog.

I am getting really sick of it. :-(

[pete]

I just synched (sunk?) my carbs with a cheapy Emco 4 gauge meter thing. In my manual it says that when using the Suzuki carb tuner have the outside two cylinders slightly higher than the inside two. So I had to pretty much guess how to set them. I set the outside two cylinders just slightly higher, but who knows if it's the right amount?

So I got them where I felt they should be, took everything apart again to remove the brass probe bits and replace the plug screws. There was no way I was going to be able to replace the plug screws without taking off the carbies again. What a PITA! I discovered that my bike was pretty close to being in synch anyway. I did set all of the meters the same as recommended.

Problem is that the bike doesn't run any better now, in fact it won't start right now! It is a very hot day here today so I am hoping that by letting it cool down for a bit it will start again.

BTW what is "highest idle" carb tuning? I did notice that when I adjusted the screw on carb 4 the revs went up, but then when I set it according to the meter it went down again. I'm starting to despair of my tech skills on this bike! I have set the tappets correctly, the timing is spot on, I have stripped down the carbies at least three times to clean them incredibly thoroughly and make sure all the screws and jets are right, have a brand new petcock, new fuel and vacuum lines, done everything I can think of and sometimes it runs beautifully then the next day runs like a dog.

I am getting really sick of it. :-(

Mate that sounds like a real bugger! Glad I've just go the two cylinders now

Highest idle is about getting mixture right as opposed to the sync. Sync is for getting the carbs balanced to each other, whereas the mixture is about getting the AFR right.

One will have an effect on the other, but I think you're better off sync'ing first, then doing the mixture, then checking sync again.

I found with the Carbtune that I had to turn the idle way down low to get a good reading...

[JimmyR]

AFR? And which are the "idle mixture screws" that I read about on the highest idle page? Are they the pilot screws?

Thanks BTW! I think I have worked out why my bike was so sluggish after carb synching today - I suspect that the revving was too slow to recharge the battery. So the battery is on the charger again tonight.

[mrbill5491]

AFR--Air-Fuel-Ratio

[pete]

AFR--Air-Fuel-Ratio

What he said

AFR? And which are the "idle mixture screws" that I read about on the highest idle page? Are they the pilot screws?

Thanks BTW! I think I have worked out why my bike was so sluggish after carb synching today - I suspect that the revving was too slow to recharge the battery. So the battery is on the charger again tonight.

I'm not sure on your carbs but my carbs only have one adjustment screw which is the mixture screw and adjusts how much fuel mixes in at idle. I know there are 4 cylinder carbs like this, but there are also some that have an air screw and a mixture screw...

I would think the "pilot" screws are like my mixture screw...

Hopefully you're on the money with the battery, if she spent most that time at idle then there'll be little to no charging typically...

[JimmyR]

Well on my bike the "pilot" screws are the ones on top of the bit that feeds into the engine. They are the only screws that aren't just screwed into place - you screw them down and back them out 2 1/2 turns. So I would assume that these are the mixture screws. In the tutorial it says that these may be screwed out a max of 4 turns if the engine is not good off idle.

When my bike is running it revs really well with no hesitation and there is no gurgling or popping on deceleration. When it's running!

[pete]

Well on my bike the "pilot" screws are the ones on top of the bit that feeds into the engine. They are the only screws that aren't just screwed into place - you screw them down and back them out 2 1/2 turns. So I would assume that these are the mixture screws. In the tutorial it says that these may be screwed out a max of 4 turns if the engine is not good off idle.

When my bike is running it revs really well with no hesitation and there is no gurgling or popping on deceleration. When it's running!

That sounds like mixture screws to me, although your manual will set you straight in that regard

My bike gurgles and pops on deceleration... it also bogs off idle... I have some carb tuning to do yet

[JimmyR]

Thanks Pete. BTW pretty sure it was the battery that was the problem. It seems to take forever to recharge. Once it runs again I will try the mixture screw adjustment.

[pete]

Thanks Pete. BTW pretty sure it was the battery that was the problem. It seems to take forever to recharge. Once it runs again I will try the mixture screw adjustment.

Cool.

You sure your charging system's up to scratch?