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80 1000E not idling

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    80 1000E not idling

    Ok I have been learning how to work on these bikes for almost a decade and I am getting a little better. My weak link has always been getting my carbs perfect after cleaning them. Well, I needed to clean the carbs on by Bone stone 80 1000E. I decided to rebuild a set from an 80 1100E and set them up for the 1000, being as they are the same bodies. Didnt want to drill out the air screws on the originals)
    I bought an ultra sonic cleaner, filled it with Gunk Carb dip and systematically cleaned the bodies. I then reassembled them using new gaskets and o rings. I put in
    new air mixture screws (1.5 turns out)
    40 pilot
    190 air jet
    107.5 main
    I set the floats at 22mm. I Then took them to the bike and wrestled them in
    The bike fired right up, no leaks, and ran great as long as the choke was cracked open, as soon as I closed the choke it stalled.
    I played with the air screws to no avail
    As I last ditch I shoved a rag in th air box covering the hole where the filter would go, The bike idled!! "Oh So it wants gas I figured."
    I then installed 42.5 Pilots
    Ok, but I still needed to restict the air holes in air box. I went to 45 pilots, Eureka I got it to idle beautifully, and then I was able to synchronize the carbs. After synching the bike sounded great. I dropped it in gear only to find that it stutters just of idle under a load.
    I figured , with the 45 pilots now its too rich, so i go back to the stock 40 pilots thinking that the synch was the problem all along. Now with the 40 pilots in she still will not hold an idle. I taped over the holes in the bottom or the air box and it idles beautifully. But it has no power under load and cant run at all over 3000rpm(I figured that would happen with the air box holes taped over.) Im taking a break and figured I'd ask you experts for help. Truth is the carbs feel like they want to run great. I think I just have something screwed up. The best it ran was with the 45 pilots, it is werent for the low circuit stubmlimb it would be fine. I havent tried 47.5 pilots yet but Ive got em. HELP!!

    #2
    What about returning the bike back to stock? Stock sized jets, fix the airbox sealing issues? Just a thought...
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Sounds like an vacuum leak, have you spritzed around the carbs and manifolds with carb cleaner? If there's a leak the revs will climb when you hit the offending spot. Also how are the manifolds? Soft, good o-rings, and not warped on the head side? If they are warped true them with a file and add new o-rings liable help. Did it to mine.
      1980 GS1000E

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        What about returning the bike back to stock? Stock sized jets, fix the airbox sealing issues? Just a thought...
        What he said

        Your airbox is causing a lean condition. Fix the airbox and put the stock pilot jet back in

        You are compensating partially for the lean condition with the larger pilot jet, but you're just chasing your tail on that.

        How many more times do you want to yank the carbs?
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          What he said

          Your airbox is causing a lean condition. Fix the airbox and put the stock pilot jet back in

          You are compensating partially for the lean condition with the larger pilot jet, but you're just chasing your tail on that.

          How many more times do you want to yank the carbs?
          I agree with both of the above gentlemen, go back to stock and be sure the everything from the airbox to engine is sealed correctly.
          1980 GS1000E

          Comment


            #6
            Ditto on the the stock recommendation. Try playing with the idle speed as well. My bike bogged until I closed the PO's modded airbox holes.
            NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

            Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
            Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

            Comment


              #7
              thanks

              That all makes sense to me. All my rubber is original. I just ordered new
              -intake pipes/boots
              -O rings
              -rear carb boots
              -air box connector boot
              from babbits ($193).
              I figured after 32 years the ole' girl deserves all new rubber.
              Ill let you know when I get it and install it.

              Thanks so much

              Comment

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