Clean carbs now bike wont start......

[Nessism]

Carb specification sticky at the top of this forum suggests 23mm. The carbs are BS34's, and that number is pretty similar with that of other BS34 bikes so I think it's correct. Of course, the proper way to determine is to measure the fuel level in the carbs. You will have to make a tool to do that though.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1058689&postcount=136

[turkeyroll60]

aha!!!



Check out the dirt i found in the fuel ejection port! I had to redip them because its caked in there. I got some out with qtips and spray carb cleaner but its really in there so back in the bucket they went. The other carb looks fine but this one isn't. Any suggestions on how to clean these tiny spaces!

[allojohn]

Can't remember if the suggestion is tkent02 or octain's but....

Slosh them around in warm slightly soapy water and then rinse in clean warm water, (then I spray liberally with carb cleaner).

[Nessism]

Your photo shows the needles still in the carbs. Did you disassemble the carb body before dipping?

[tom203]

Your photo shows the needles still in the carbs. Did you disassemble the carb body before dipping?

We can hope! Those ebay carbs were apparently just superficially cleaned for the glamour photos.

[turkeyroll60]

The carbs are as disassembled as they are gonna get. The long metal thing in the pic is definitely not the jet needle. I just read about boiling carbs in lemon juice. Anyone here ever do that?

[UncleMike]

The carbs are as disassembled as they are gonna get. The long metal thing in the pic is definitely not the jet needle.

Soooo, what is it?

[hjfisk]

It also appears that the air jet is still in the stripped carb

[turkeyroll60]

What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.

[UncleMike]

What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.

No one is trying to disrespect, promise. Just trying to make sure that bike gets running right with a happy owner!

[chuck hahn]

Citric acid in lemon juice will turn them a very dark grey and its a biitch to get them looking decent again.

[Suzuki mad]

What do you mean "carb jet needle"? I have removed the jet needle that is part of the diaphragm assembly if that is what you are referring to. The needle jet was also removed from the carburetor body as well. The part in the pic is not listed in my clymers manual so either I'm stupid or you are using some sort of slang to make me feel stupid. It had no o rings and appeared to me to really need more force to remove it than would safely allow for a safe disassembley of the carb. I respect yours and everyone else's knowledge and that's why I come here but respect is a two way street.

No one on here has any interest in making you look or appear to look an idiot. They are just trying to help you solve your bikes bad running and you in cleaning your carbs properly.

Manuals show you the factory way when the bike was less than a week old and a mechanic that has been trained by Suzuki just refreshes his knowledge from. This is why most mechanics today in shops wont touch a bike that's over 5 years old as stuff breaks, is hard to get hold of and cant be turned around in a day to make money from.

The picture you posted showed a part the people recognised as still in situe and are being concerned. Nothing more.

[TheCafeKid]

I dont think thats the needle either.. There's zero taper to it for one.

I read you picked these carbs up off of eBay or are these the ones that came with the bike?? Just trying to clarify and eliminate the possibility that the carbs you have there are correct for the bike. I don't know the lil twins all that well but I don't recall ever seeing...whatever sort of pickup tube that is...in any of the GS carbs I've run across. But, like I said I've not seen them all.

[TheCafeKid]

Also, you'll want to take some wire, like speaker wire or such (multi strand copper wire preferably) and strip an end and use just a nice long strand to help clean out any of the crud in the tiny holes. The copper is soft enough not to damage the brass or Alu. Some spray carb cleaner is usefull as well, as the red tube is good for getting down in some ports to blast them out after the dip softens up deposits (but is NOT a suitable replacement for actually stripping and dipping ) but be mindful to spray away from your face and wear some eye protection. Some of those ports will come right back around toward your face and carb spray in the eye is indescribably painful.

[Nessism]

Have you seen this tutorial on rebuilding a set of 450 carbs?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/gs450_carb_cleaning_guide.pdf