GS1100E update - conversation with Dynojet

[AJ]

Sheesh! I'd say it was a bit loud eh? Barely room to wrap it and still fit it in the can hahaha! I know the Yosh race pipe I had on my now ex 1100ES was loud before I wrapped it extra stuffing style. I used stainless steel batting (which is excellent By the way. Lasts damn near forever and doesn't rust out or burn up)

I like me some bark wih the bite, but when it's so loud on a long trip that YOU even get annoyed, you know it's too loud hahaha. But the Yosh has a great sound. Dunno how it's tuned to have that wonderful note..nice deep liter bike burble at idle, a nice growl on throttle and then the sound of what I can only describe as a whole battalion of really ****ed off hornets at full chat.
The Kerker on my ZRX sounds nice, different, but nice. But not as nice as that Yosh did.

The smaller baffle should restore some of that "light to light" grunt she may have been missing with that "Sarlac Pit" you had in there before. Top end "retro rocket" like rush might decrease a little, but really, short of a drag strip where do you really get to open her up for long like that??

Thanks CK. the smaller pipe has really changed the character of the bike all for the better. There's a lot more bottom end, and whatever top end was lost, I don't seem to notice at all. The bike was almost dirt-bikey before, but now she has nice, linear power, and a whole lot quieter.

BTW, I appreciate your thoughts and know you to be quite helpful, and certainly didn't mean anything bad to Katarac, also a helpful poster. It's a shame we're limited to this text forum. It'd be great to run some nice roads together, stop for a burger and a beer, ride home slower.

[Katarat]

No problem

[AJ]

Sheesh! I'd say it was a bit loud eh? Barely room to wrap it and still fit it in the can hahaha! I know the Yosh race pipe I had on my now ex 1100ES was loud before I wrapped it extra stuffing style. I used stainless steel batting (which is excellent By the way. Lasts damn near forever and doesn't rust out or burn up)

Ditto on the stainless wool. Doesn't muffle quite as well as fiberglass, but it sure does last a lot longer, like permanently. Here's a link for anybody who is interested. http://www.amazon.com/Two-Brothers-R...3853167&sr=8-1

[posplayr]

Re. the conversions equivalent DynaJet and Mikuni jets, the fuel jets ARE different, per the discussion above. However, the AIR jets for the pilot circuit are identical, that is, the 160 air jet DynaJet supplies is the same size as a Mikuni 160 air jet. That comes from DynaJet, and as measured by me using numbered pin drills.

For the record, the setup I'm at now is:

K&N pods on 34mm Mikuni CV carbs.
Kerker pipe with standard 1.5" baffle.
DJ 138 main jet. (approx same as Mikuni 130, per discussion below)
Needle raised to next-to-last position (#5 position of 6 avaliable. Instructions say to start with #3 midpoint)
Pilot air jet is the DJ #160 (richer than stock, one size smaller than the Mikuni #170)
Mixture screws 2.5 turns out.

This setup is pretty close. I initially went to the recommended DJ stage III settings with the needles at #3 midpoint, but could not get the transition from from the pilot circuit to the main circuit (3000 to 5000 rpm) going well and was getting surging at low throttle settings that the mixture screw alone could not cure, and I was already with a richer pilot air jet. Had to raise the needles two notches (meaning I had to open the carb tops two more times today! Note, I found I could do this without even pulling the carbs. Got to the point where I could change all four needles from gas tank-off to tank-on in about 30 minutes!).

With the above setup, it is mostly good. Overall midrange power is way up over the huge "competition" exhaust baffle and anything the top end lost is not noticeable. Haven't ridden it enough to verify it's good under all conditions, but it is very rideable. I wouldn't have thought the needles would be so influential at such low RPM and low throttle settings, but it was definitely the needles that needed adjusting.

Anyway, there's probably more that I can tweak in these carbs, but it's pretty good for now, almost "Busa-like" in power and desire to pop wheelies. Coming along. Coming along....

Most people end up with a Mikuni 47.5 v.s. the stock Mikuni 45 pilot jets. If you really are stock the DJ 132 might be better. With a hot cam the DJ 138 would be the better of the two. Once you go 1166 then the mains have to move up another 10 points like 140's.


I think your needle should be closer to center and it is the pilot creating the problem

[TheCafeKid]

Most people end up with a Mikuni 47.5 v.s. the stock Mikuni 45 pilot jets. If you really are stock the DJ 132 might be better. With a hot cam the DJ 138 would be the better of the two. Once you go 1166 then the mains have to move up another 10 points like 140's.


I think your needle should be closer to center and it is the pilot creating the problem

I couldnt get mine to idle and run worth a damn on small opening worth a damn with 47.5 pilots. But I also couldn't find pilots WITHOUT the bleeder holes in them either..my 45s were straight through.

[posplayr]

Re. the conversions equivalent DynaJet and Mikuni jets, the fuel jets ARE different, per the discussion above. However, the AIR jets for the pilot circuit are identical, that is, the 160 air jet DynaJet supplies is the same size as a Mikuni 160 air jet. That comes from DynaJet, and as measured by me using numbered pin drills.

For the record, the setup I'm at now is:

K&N pods on 34mm Mikuni CV carbs.
Kerker pipe with standard 1.5" baffle.
DJ 138 main jet. (approx same as Mikuni 130, per discussion below)
Needle raised to next-to-last position (#5 position of 6 avaliable. Instructions say to start with #3 midpoint)
Pilot air jet is the DJ #160 (richer than stock, one size smaller than the Mikuni #170)
Mixture screws 2.5 turns out.

This setup is pretty close. I initially went to the recommended DJ stage III settings with the needles at #3 midpoint, but could not get the transition from from the pilot circuit to the main circuit (3000 to 5000 rpm) going well and was getting surging at low throttle settings that the mixture screw alone could not cure, and I was already with a richer pilot air jet. Had to raise the needles two notches (meaning I had to open the carb tops two more times today! Note, I found I could do this without even pulling the carbs. Got to the point where I could change all four needles from gas tank-off to tank-on in about 30 minutes!).

With the above setup, it is mostly good. Overall midrange power is way up over the huge "competition" exhaust baffle and anything the top end lost is not noticeable. Haven't ridden it enough to verify it's good under all conditions, but it is very rideable. I wouldn't have thought the needles would be so influential at such low RPM and low throttle settings, but it was definitely the needles that needed adjusting.

Anyway, there's probably more that I can tweak in these carbs, but it's pretty good for now, almost "Busa-like" in power and desire to pop wheelies. Coming along. Coming along....

I was on a Rally/Camping trip and my morning ritual was to do this about 2-3 times each morning
Dont want to loose that circlip in the pine needles, will never find it and I'm 250 miles from home

[posplayr]

I couldnt get mine to idle and run worth a damn on small opening worth a damn with 47.5 pilots. But I also couldn't find pilots WITHOUT the bleeder holes in them either..my 45s were straight through.

Which bike/pipe was that Josh? I'm pretty sure Bill allways sets up an stock 1100E with the 47.5(unless that is only on the 36mm 1150 carbs ). With my 4:2:1 I ended up going back to the 45 Pilots, and dropping my mains back to Mikuni 135's. This is odd ball due to my ported head and the 4:2:1 although I have the 0.340 cams and 1166 pistons.

[TheCafeKid]

Which bike/pipe was that Josh? I'm pretty sure Bill allways sets up an stock 1100E with the 47.5(unless that is only on the 36mm 1150 carbs ). With my 4:2:1 I ended up going back to the 45 Pilots, and dropping my mains back to Mikuni 135's. This is odd ball due to my ported head and the 4:2:1 although I have the 0.340 cams and 1166 pistons.

My 1100ES. Running that big honker Yosh pipe I bought from you (miss that baby ) 36mm carbs pods and +3* on the timing. Otherwise stock except high flow pump gears. I had a set of 1150 cams for it but never got around to installing them. Personally I think it ran as close to flawless as one could get with Ohios widely swinging temps and heavy summer air. Crisp through the entire circuitry and really kicked on the afterburners from 6 on. Though I did incessantly tinker on it for a good portion of the season every year but the last season and a half I had it it was just about perfect. In fact the only reason inlet her go was to help pops with some stuff after mum passed. Otherwise she'd be in the shop sitting next to Rex right now. But she's in good hands now

How's your ED running Jim?

[posplayr]

My 1100ES. Running that big honker Yosh pipe I bought from you (miss that baby ) 36mm carbs pods and +3* on the timing. Otherwise stock except high flow pump gears. I had a set of 1150 cams for it but never got around to installing them. Personally I think it ran as close to flawless as one could get with Ohios widely swinging temps and heavy summer air. Crisp through the entire circuitry and really kicked on the afterburners from 6 on. Though I did incessantly tinker on it for a good portion of the season every year but the last season and a half I had it it was just about perfect. In fact the only reason inlet her go was to help pops with some stuff after mum passed. Otherwise she'd be in the shop sitting next to Rex right now. But she's in good hands now

How's your ED running Jim?

The ED took quite a bit of tinkering with the 4:2:1 but that was mainly because I needed to figure out how to tune with the O2 sensor(I got help from Tejasmud) . It is dialed in and runs very good. The setup for the 4:1 has a power flat spot that is too lean for the stronger mid range of the 4:2:1. On the other hand the 4:1 needs more juice than the 4:2:1 at the top end so you jet the main a little leaner.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1499995&postcount=4

[AJ]

Nice to see this thread picking up a little steam. Wish you had joined earlier, Posplayr. I think the stock pilot with the smaller air jet is about the same combo as the larger pilot wi the stock 170 air jet. Seems to me they trade off more or less. If anything, I was thinking of going up a size in the main jet and dropping the needle back down, but she's running pretty well now and I'm thinking I should switch to cosmetics for awhile. Plus my Busa is feeling lonely.....

[AJ]

Should also mention that I really have no idea what is inside this motor. Bought the bike from a guy who is into drag racing cars. You should have seen his garage. But the bike looked stock, pretty neglected, and the valve cover gasket sure looked old when I did the valves. Wish I had checked numbers on the cams and looked for slots on the gears. I think it's probably stock inside and guess what happened is he bought the monster pipe and then fiddled with jets until he got frustrated and just moved the bike back behind the garage. He gave me a LOT of carb parts with the bike.

BTW, I love your ED, Posplayr, gorgeous bike.