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    #16
    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
    For others out there, PLEASE LEARN from this and,
    instead of using Black Magic, just get one of these instead...

    That one must be umpteen times better than the one by Motion Pro if you're recommending it, because the Motion Pro tool sucks. The zip tie method is safe if you use it right. Much easier to use right than the hook tool I have.
    Dogma
    --
    O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

    Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

    --
    '80 GS850 GLT
    '80 GS1000 GT
    '01 ZRX1200R

    How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

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      #17
      Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
      For others out there, PLEASE LEARN from this and,
      instead of using Black Magic, just get one of these instead...

      I hardly think this will make me do anything of the sort. The zip tie method is cheap, quick and safe.

      This is an unusual situation not unlike a shim shattering because the "proper" tool slipped.

      Comment


        #18
        How about turning the engine over by hand until the exhaust valve is open and blowing air into the spark plug hole ? Just a thought & worth a shot. Yould have to take the pipes off to see if it comes out but if youre pulling the head youll have to do that anyway

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          #19
          All of these feasible solutions would not be needed if he just used the correct tool.
          Sorry to burst the bubble of those that are still convinced that the vippy tie is a better idea.
          I have NEVER in over a hundred valve adjustments in over 30 years EVER broke a valve shim.
          WHAT DOES ONE HAVE TO DO TO DO THAT ANYWAY????
          Pay attention to what you are doing and mistakes don't happen. Period.


          Eric


          Shameless plug: I have shims for sale for those that need some whether they practice breaking them or just need a different size.

          Comment


            #20
            If you're a dentist just take the bike to your office and use the suction tool, I bet that would get it out with a little patience. Might want to do it in the off hours though. If you're like me and a) not a dentist and b) really cheap you might try 'reducing' a shop vac down to a small flexible hose, duct tape would be of assistance there. I would hesitate to stick duct tape into the cylinder itself, it could be even more troublesome than the plastic if it decides to stay.
            "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

            -Denis D'shaker

            79 GS750N

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              #21
              Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
              Pay attention to what you are doing and mistakes don't happen. Period.
              Same applies to the zip tie method. And I am FAR from convinced that all the trouble arising from the Motion Pro tool are due to inattentiveness or ineptitude. Perhaps there really is a difference between it and the Suzuki tool. I'd like to see a comparison, it could be enlightening.
              "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

              -Denis D'shaker

              79 GS750N

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                #22
                Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
                All of these feasible solutions would not be needed if he just used the correct tool.
                Sorry to burst the bubble of those that are still convinced that the vippy tie is a better idea.
                I have NEVER in over a hundred valve adjustments in over 30 years EVER broke a valve shim.
                WHAT DOES ONE HAVE TO DO TO DO THAT ANYWAY????
                Pay attention to what you are doing and mistakes don't happen. Period.


                Eric


                Shameless plug: I have shims for sale for those that need some whether they practice breaking them or just need a different size.
                Your pointless posts are not solving anything in this thread. Please go away.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I've used the Motion Pro tool and it never felt anything but fully secure???

                  Could it be that you're not getting it out of the combustion chamber because it's still caught in the valve?

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I would run it. No question. If it gets stuck in the exhaust port, it won't be for long.

                    Before I run it, I would try to blow it out the port by opening both valves near TDC and blowing air into the intake.

                    Heck, the very worst thing that could happen isn't much worse than pulling the top end off to the base gasket, is it?. Potentially, it could get cougt in the exhaust valve and potentially the piston could hit the open valve, but I think it would not, and if it did I think it would be soft enough to do no damage.

                    Mostly, I think that if it makes it to the port, its going out period.
                    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

                    Comment


                      #25
                      What about bringing the piston to about 1" below TDC, then fishing around in the cylinder using a bent coat hanger with a wad of backwards wrapped tape on the end, so the sticky side is out? Can't be that hard to fish that piece out.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #26
                        Thanks, guys.

                        Thanks to the folks with constructive input. I should have specified that it was the exhaust valve, so it is likely either in the cyl or in the exhaust runner.

                        I hadn't considered using suction. I have a shop vac, 1/4" clear tubing and duct tape. I think I'll try this first. And, a few people voiced my primary concern, which is being able to lay my hands on that little fella, to confirm that it is out.

                        I also bought an air gun similiar to your pic, HG, I'll try with valves closed first to see if the air pushes it to where I can see it. But I also bought some slender tweezers, some flexi straws and electrical tape to try. Allie, I shared your concern about putting something else in there that could possibly become stuck. If I need to use this step, I might try to de-tack the "outside" of the tape a bit with my fingers before putting it in the cyl to try to minimize that possibility.

                        And, Dogma, I need to pull the carbs to check my needle valve anyway, so as a 2nd (3rd?) contingency, I'll try it this way with the intake valve open. But by the time I get to this step, if it is in the cyl, hopefully I will have already gotten it.

                        The only gripper tool at Harbour Freight had magnets added to the end, so it was too wide to fit into the plug hole. And upon looking at it, I think that if I found one that fit, I'd be grabbing blind until the zip tie piece was where I could see it, and then I'd be able to grab it with my straw contraption.

                        Mike, that was not something that had occurred to me. I assumed it was above or below, not that it was still pinched there. I think the gap on the valve was still OK, but I'll check.

                        850 Combat, that was along the lines I was thinking as well. While it CERTAINLY is not my preference to leave it in there, pulling it apart seems drastic. With any luck, I won't have to make the decision.

                        For what it is worth, I will be sticking with the zip tie in the future. Having done it this way and experiencing how easy it was to do, the tool would have to be damn nice to justify buying yet another single purpose tool. In the future, I would just take it a bit easier on smashing the "fold" with pliers and also not start trying to pull it out until the valve is more fully depressed. It sounds like this problem is a very low frequency occurrence. I think of it like plane crashes. They're rare enough that I don't let it scare me off. And most of them are a result of human error as well.
                        Last edited by Guest; 03-20-2012, 11:26 PM. Reason: typos

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                          #27
                          me too

                          I'd use the zip tie again too, too easy.

                          Sometimes bad things happen to good people.

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                            #28
                            A $15 tool or hours of effort when things go south... you guys are nuts!

                            Don't forget to use a Beam-type torque wrench to tighten a 72 INCH-POUND bolt!





                            Eric

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
                              A $15 tool or hours of effort when things go south... you guys are nuts!

                              Don't forget to use a Beam-type torque wrench to tighten a 72 INCH-POUND bolt!





                              Eric
                              After being chastised (properly I might add) when I was new to the sight about doing the "30 years of maintenance" I took to the task of checking/adjusting valves. I was very apprehensive about it and studied all methods. I read about the zip tie method but was not to sure about it. Also read about the "trouble" with slippage with the approved tool but decided to buy the Motion Pro anyway. Job went quickly and easily, much to my delight. This is one vote for the "special" tool.

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                                #30
                                Option #1
                                Just pull the spark plug out, and tap the starter button a few times, you should see it floppin around...it might even fly out.
                                Once you know it's in there for sure...get a shop-vac and duct-tape a smaller hose to it.

                                Option #2:
                                get a small flexible grabber tool, sort of like this.


                                Just make sure it's small enough, they probably sell them at autozone and just about everywhere....they make em thin enough to easily get it down the spark plug hole.

                                Option#3:
                                **** it, Just run the damn engine!
                                The exhaust gasses are over 500deg easy when they come out of that exhaust port, on warm-up.
                                Odds are, you used a cheap zip-tie, so it'll melt within seconds!
                                Last edited by Guest; 03-21-2012, 01:04 AM.

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