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Idk if any of you have tried this, but as I'm sure most of you know, those carb boots are a pain in the ass. I had just changed them and was putting my carbs back on. After a few minutes of wiggling, rotating, screaming, a few choice words and almost kicking something, i took a break. When I came back, I had a long 2"x4" and I placed it against the intake side of the carbs and, with my brother pushing on the other side, we managed to fanigle then carbs in. It took a lot of force, and using the bikes brake to stop it from moving, but now they're in.
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If you have a look on the center stand, there is a hole that you can put a screw driver through to lock it, saves you having to hold the brake.
A wee bit of dish washing liquid smeared on the inside of the boots gets the carbs sliding in with no effort.
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Good tips. I didn't know about the lock on the centerstand.Originally posted by Flyboy View PostIf you have a look on the center stand, there is a hole that you can put a screw driver through to lock it, saves you having to hold the brake.
A wee bit of dish washing liquid smeared on the inside of the boots gets the carbs sliding in with no effort.
I use a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil or automatic transmission fluid (ATF) smeared around inside the boot. Both of these oils are good to lubricate and condition rubber seals and help make a positive seal between the boot and the carb body.Comment
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I just wrap a bungee to hold the brake and a dab of oil on the throats of the carbs. Another cool trick is to a piece of sheet metal about the size of a license plate. Dont use a license plate though cuz you dont want the indents from the letters. You want smooth flat sheet metal. Slide it in and let it rest against the AIRBOX boots and slide.,.jam..wiggle.force the carbs on into alignment and then roll them in to the boots. The metal will compress the airbox boots back and will keep the intake side of the carbs from snagging all up in the airbox boots. Once you get the carbs in and the clamps tightened, then slide the sheet metal out and as you go line up the airbox boots with the carbs.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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You guys need better technique or better carbs boots
I can put the VMs back on my 1000 in under 15 minutes with only 3 screwdrivers and the airbox in place1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SESComment
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Why do people fight with this? I'll never know. All I do is pull the motor mounts and jack up the back of the motor. There is a least a half inch of clearance to be gained from this tip. And there is no force involved, which can break parts and is always best avoided.NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS
Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R
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You guys need different BIKES.Originally posted by Big T View Post
On my 850 and 1000 shafties, you can remove and replace the carbs within 15 minutes.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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get new boots, or take yours off put them in hot oil,it sounds like there old dry and not near flexible like they should be
they should slide right in, try a lil oil on the lips next time,it should help
also if the boots on the intake side are dry, there prolly going to leak and separate from the mount,then they will leak air and your bike will not run right ,and it will drive you crazy why it isnt idling or running right, learned this the hard way lolComment
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I use spray silicone lube. Works great.Comment
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All it takes is a few minutes and a Visa card to order new carb boots that aren't shriveled and shrunken with age.
You're going to break something very expensive yanking on the carbs that hard.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!Comment
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My trick has to do withn the fact that the clearance between the intake sdie of the carbs and the airbox boots is miniscule..thus the plate helps the throat slide up easily and not get hung on the boots.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Unfortunately, I don't think all the GS center stands have this feature.Originally posted by Flyboy View PostIf you have a look on the center stand, there is a hole that you can put a screw driver through to lock it, saves you having to hold the brake.
A wee bit of dish washing liquid smeared on the inside of the boots gets the carbs sliding in with no effort.Dogma
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'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
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after i put new boots on mine its not at all hard to get the carbs on or off.Comment
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I bought new intake side boots, and they slide in with just a little push.
On the other hand, my air box boots are in bad shape. I ordered some new ones but they are on backorder.
I used sil glide with no luck, they are a pain in the rear that is for sure..Comment
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