1980 gs450 carb kits!

[Greg]

It seems I may have found a group of people who can answer my questions.

I purchesed a 1980 GS450 for a whopping 300 bucks. The guys tells me "She ran when I parked her." Just what I was after. I get it home, torn down, buffed out...cleaned up. She fires up. 1 pistons not getting good fire, and flooded with fuel..* blah blah blah* Long story short, the float needle is bad in one carb, and I NEED A NEW ONE!...

My Question...

Where on earth do I get it?...

Ive seen keyster rebuilt kits for the 77-78 models. And 82 and up...but nothing for the 80...

The needles and seat look the same on the 77-78 rebuilt kits as the ones in mine, so...do I order?..

Any advice would rock. Thanks!

Greg

[mike_of_bbg]

Welcome, Greg.

I'd highly suggest OEM parts because they're much higher quality than what you'll find in most rebuild kids. Unfortunately for the twins that is a rather expensive parts compared to the 4's: but it only takes 2! According to alpha-sports.com's site, that same part # (13370-44010) can be found on the following models:

1977 SUZUKI GS400B - CARBURETOR
1977 SUZUKI GS400XB - CARBURETOR
1978 SUZUKI GS400C - CARBURETOR-1
1978 SUZUKI GS400XC - CARBURETOR-1
1979 SUZUKI GS425EN - CARBURETOR
1979 SUZUKI GS425LN - CARBURETOR
1979 SUZUKI GS425N - CARBURETOR
1980 SUZUKI GS450ET - CARBURETOR
1980 SUZUKI GS450LT - CARBURETOR
1980 SUZUKI GS450ST - CARBURETOR
1981 SUZUKI GS450EX - CARBURETOR
1981 SUZUKI GS450LX - CARBURETOR
1981 SUZUKI GS450SX - CARBURETOR
1981 SUZUKI GS450TX - CARBURETOR
1982 SUZUKI GS450EZ - CARBURETOR
1982 SUZUKI GS450LZ - CARBURETOR
1982 SUZUKI GS450TXZ - CARBURETOR
1982 SUZUKI GS450TZ - CARBURETOR

That surprises me to see the same part used from 77-82 but that's what it says. Alpha-sports is a great place to look up part #'s because they use real Suzuki part #'s, list NLA part #'s, and have the cross-reference tool. But, they're also very expensive so I wouldn't buy there.

Are you sure it's not the petcock leaking fuel down the vacuum line?

[Greg]

Im positive the petcock is good.

Basically, my method of determining if it was a carb/float problem, was as follows.

1. Let the bowls fill up.
2. Remove vacuum line from petcock.
3. Plug the carb vacuum port.
4. Start it.

From this I was able to determine, that after running for a short while, the piston started to fire strong, and the smell of gas went away. From what I figure, the needles is sticking open, thus flooding the carb. Eh?

[Greg]

And let me rephrase.

Where can I find the kit/needle+seat for UNDER $60...

[mike_of_bbg]

Boulevard Suzuki has them for ~$40, but you'll have to pay shipping of course (unless you come up with $100+ total of parts to buy and use their currently-running coupon code, LOYALSHIP).

Was the flooding cylinder the one with the vacuum line? If the diaphragm in the petcock cracks or gets perfed, it can not leak statically but can send fuel down the vacuum line when the motor is running and pulling vacuum.

[Greg]

I checked out everything inside the petcock when I tore it apart for cleaning, and everything looked A-OK. Really I was rather impressed at how well everything looked. Also might mention that the vacuum line smelled free of gas as did the carb.

I might also add that when compared side by side, the float needle in the bad carb is much more worn/dirty looking. I cleaned it best I could with my finger and carb cleaner, but nothing really took the "work" look off. The other looks brand new.

Also, more diagnosis. Because they are identical parts, I swapped the needle/seat between the two carbs, and the other side that was working well before took on the same characteristics.

[Nessism]

Most likely you don't need new float needle/seats, just clean your carbs properly and replace all the old O-rings.

cycleorings.com has a 450 kit. You will also need intake boot O-rings.

Carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature. Also, 450 dedicated rebuild tutorial here...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ning_guide.pdf

[Greg]

I may also add.

The spring on the inside of the jet on the bad side is a little stiff and creaks...where the other does not.

[Nessism]

You need to fully break down the carbs and soak the metal bits in carb dip. That spring in the float needle is contaminated with fuel varnish.

[Greg]

I guess I might rather give that all a try before buying parts.

Im always excited for the 9th pull of carbs.

I will admit, these have been a lot more pleasant than my 1987 Kawasaki ZL1000.

Thanks for the help, Ill post an update in a couple days.

[pete]

I can only do a +1 on all the above... my carbs got a good clean with Yamalube carb cleaner and I got the combo kit from www.cycleorings.com and haven't looked back. They're still a touch ratty on the outside but the inside is like new...

[Greg]

Just a quick update.

Order O-Ring set, soaked both carbs for 2 days. Problem persists. Ordering a kit of a 79 to get the float needle for 1/2 the price

Cant wait to ride it!

For now I'm STUCK on my 07 Vulcan 900 Classis..*dies*

[Greg]

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Carb-Float-Needles?sc=12&category=73741

MANNA FROM HEAVEN! This was not there a few weeks ago.

See you all in a few days...maybe now I can actually focus on making her LOOK as good as she has the potential.

[mike_of_bbg]

Greg, I hope you get those (and that, if you do, they're good). OBB is on the "bad vendors" list.

[Greg]

Update:

OBB sent me the wrong float needle..*facepalm* The one they sent me is about 1/16th of an inch longer...but everything else is the same. So, for the sake of my sanity, i just adjusted the float hight to match and put them back in. The piston now fires, but now...another problem has arose..

I pulled the petcock....fuel in the vacc. line. When I pulled it apart this is what I found. The aluminum disk thing is torn up...and the diaphragm has a VEEEERY small tear right on the edge in the middle....can i seal it up with something?..