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I think I figured it out. Can you tell the difference?

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    #31
    Yeah you need those plugs. Ordering them from z-1 is cheaper.
    -1980 GS1100 LT
    -1975 Honda cb750K
    -1972 Honda cl175
    - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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      #32
      It is cheaper and here you go.

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        #33
        Dude that the one!!! Youll have her doing whellies in no time now. Did ya look at the way the rise in the bowls lines up like i said? Set the mixture screw..in the middle of the carb throat on the top toward the engine..at 2 turns out from gently seated as a start point.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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          #34
          Look at that little brass tube sticking down as well. Thats called the bleeder tube. At the base of it where it goes into the carb bodies are some holes. Take a bread tie wire and poke them out. Poke out the tiny hole in the very end too. Spray the gunk out with some carb spray and compressed air. That tube recycle excess fuel in the pilot system back to the bowls..hence the name bleeder tube. Regap the plugs when you take them out for cleaning or replacement.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment

            #35
            Whooooaaa! Awesome thank you. And I have it set at 2 turns out. Now the bleeder is the brass one to the right of my hand that reaches down into the bowl?

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              #36
              Yup...look right at the base where it goes into the bodies..will be some holes there..take a green dish scrubbie and clean the outsides of the tubes and youll see the holes easier. Poke those all out and the one at the end of the tubes.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment

                #37
                Ohhh OK i see. Just ordered the rubber caps!

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                  #38
                  Mr. Defore,

                  I'm not sure what the purpose of the holes in the sides of the pilot jets are. My friend rebuilt his Mikuni CVs from his Yamaha at the same time I rebuilt my GS ones. Mine had the holes on the side, his did not. Go figure.

                  You've posted several threads about getting this bike running. Members before us have written very detailed documents about disassembling, cleaning, and re-assembling the carbs. Those docs are available from BassCliff's site and from the GSR home page. Had you been following either of those documents step-by-step there's no way you would have missed the pilot passage plugs.

                  I'm not trying to give you too hard a time, but a lot of effort has gone in to making these documents - and that for a reason. Working slowly and methodically with attention to detail, particularly with the carbs and electrical, will achieve results far better than having to re-do the work over and over again.

                  If you cannot burn your gas entirely within two weeks, you should put a stabilizer like SeaFoam in it. If the bike last ran without stabilized fuel and you add it, you have to run the bike for a few miles to make sure the stabilized mix of fuel is in the carbs. There are two stations in Gainesville which sell ethanol-free gasoline. Due to the humidity in most of FL I would take the extra step to buy that whenever possible, as ethanol is hygroscopic and your carbs have vents to that humid air. You still should stabilize ethanol-free fuel that cannot be consumed in short order.

                  Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada
                  http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=FL
                  Pure-gas.org is the definitive web site listing stations that sell pure gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.

                  Comment

                    #39
                    Yea this past year has been a lil wild for me which doesnt make working on a bike that easy. But im slowly getting there. Wow that website is helpful. Thank you. Now at lets say advance auto parts is there and additive that you suggest? Like the lead stuff etc. Or just go with the sta-bil stuff?

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                      #40
                      And btw I'm a strong believer in seafoam and use it with everything.

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