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Intalling float seat

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    Intalling float seat

    Hi Folks,

    I pulled my carbs off after #4 started leaking from the bowl somewhere. I discovered that whoever installed them had left a chunk of the old float bowl gasket on the mating surface, and proceeded to install the new one over it.

    In the process I decided to dip the carbs (even though they had recently been ultrasonically cleaned), change out the float bowl gaskets, and install new o-rings, because as I've come to learn, unless you do it yourself, you can't be sure it was done right.

    Disassembling was relatively simple with the exception of removing the float seats, those suckers were a pain to pull out. Now that I'm putting them back together I'm running into the reverse problem, installing them seems to be just as tough, though this time I have the advantage of being able to use the rubber mallet to try and tap them in.

    My question is, does it usually take a bit of force to get the float seats in and out? I don't want to end up breaking anything in the process.

    Also, just to make sure, are the o-rings from cycleorings.com labled "inlet valve seat" the ones for the float seat?

    Thanks,
    Daniel

    #2
    They can be a bit difficult to get back in there. I think the last set I did, I tapped them in lightly with a small hammer after I put some some spit on there for some lube......ohhhh....that didn't sound right........
    Larry D
    1980 GS450S
    1981 GS450S
    2003 Heritage Softtail

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      #3
      Yes, it takes more force to insert them than it did to remove them. The fresh o-ring makes all the difference. It will go easier, and avoid wear on the o-ring, if you put a little syl-glide over the o-ring before installing the valve seat.

      I've done three of mine, the fourth is still soaking.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Larry D View Post
        ......ohhhh....that didn't sound right........
        LOL

        Marvel Mystery Oil was developed specifically for lubricating and conditioning rubber parts in carbs, and for cleaning out varnish deposits. It's a really old product - it was developed for use in Marvel carburetors in the 1920's, although the only Marvel carbs found nowadays are in airplanes - and it is still very good for lubricating seals.

        About $5 a can and it smells great.

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          #5
          I've always had a bit of vasoline in my tool kit, which is what I used.

          cg
          sigpic
          83 GS1100g
          2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

          Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Ajay View Post
            LOL

            Marvel Mystery Oil was developed specifically for lubricating and conditioning rubber parts in carbs, and for cleaning out varnish deposits. It's a really old product - it was developed for use in Marvel carburetors in the 1920's, although the only Marvel carbs found nowadays are in airplanes - and it is still very good for lubricating seals.

            About $5 a can and it smells great.
            Good point. KY, being water-soluble, wouldn't work well for seals.

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