My gs1100L wont make it down the street. Please help.

[yoshisakan]

Methinks that's the sound of piston hitting valves. I wouldn't try starting it again.

Your first instinct was correct. You time to TDC of #1 or #4.

What year is that anyway? You may want to add that to your sig.

Oh ****. What are the odds that I bent them by turning the motor over maybe 15 times?

(its a 1982 gs1100gl)

[tkent02]

I would say about 15,000 to one.

Turning them once will do it if the cam timing is indeed wrong.

[old_skool]

Found it. http://bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html Mine is the electronic ignition one. The manual only has the mechanical.

Whew, had me worried there for a moment, just did the Tempter all new gaskets, and aligned the T to the timing mark, had to go back and re-read the manual, correct for that bike...and I know, it's a GR not a GS, but it made me look just the same.

[BassCliff]

Greetingas and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. yoshisakan,

With the help of this forum I have amassed a lot of information that I like to share. In case I have missed your entrance and not welcomed you properly, let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[ChicagoRob]

Oh ****. What are the odds that I bent them by turning the motor over maybe 15 times?

(its a 1982 gs1100gl)

Ok, we have the same bike. An 8 valve 1100.

Who knows, maybe you got lucky and it was just barely touching. Maybe not.

At this point it's not going to hurt to try it set correctly. If the valves are bent you'll probably be better off picking up a complete used head anyway. The 8 valves don't command a premium like the 16 values do. If you have to go that route, make sure that you get one complete with the cams. They are fitted at the factory to a pretty small tolerance. Best to keep it together.

This time take a peek into #1 or #4's plug hole and make sure that you see the top of the piston. #4 is handier since it's right by the timing cover. A dial caliper would come in handy but if you time to brwinger's mark and see the top of the piston, you'll be set.

Remember, the exhaust cam's #1 is pointing at the head, #2 is pin 1 and #3 is pin 20. Once you get the cams and cam tensioner (you're taking that off, right?) back on, check your work by spinning the engine clockwise (always clockwise) with the wrench. I've had it jump a pin on me before. There shouldn't be any taps or much resistance with the plugs out.

Also, it's probably a good idea to check out Cliff's site and read through the top ten newbie mistakes thread that can be found in Nessiem's sig. There's a lot of good info there. You may think that you know of better ways of doing things, but in the end, you'll come around. Everyone eventually does.

[MisterCinders]

Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.

[yoshisakan]

Well im going to adjust the timing and try to fire it back up and see if she'll run. If I bent the valves, i'm going to be really ****ed off. I bought this bike to ride, not to rebuild. I have enough projects. The seller assured me that everything was fine with the compression and then I find out it has a blown head gasket.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll keep you updated.

[yoshisakan]

Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.

I am going to get a leakdown tester now. I'll let you all know the results.

[MisterCinders]

Well im going to adjust the timing and try to fire it back up and see if she'll run. If I bent the valves, i'm going to be really ****ed off. I bought this bike to ride, not to rebuild. I have enough projects. The seller assured me that everything was fine with the compression and then I find out it has a blown head gasket.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll keep you updated.

I wouldn't do this.

Instead, check for bent valves first. At least explore the valve clearances and shine a light into the plug hole to try and inspect the piston tops for damage. You're already going to be in there to check and adjust the cam timing.

If there are no signs of bent valves, then run a compression test without plugs etc. If that checks out, then you can proceed to firing up the engine.

If you have a slightly damaged valve now, going live on that engine might damage more valves, mess up a piston, etc. If you find the damage valve first, you can go in and fix that. OTOH, testing for small damage that adds more damage will send you down the same path (top end tear down) to fix even more things.

[MisterCinders]

Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.

BTW - looking at your service manual the cam chain links are #2 = 1 and #3 = 20, like the previous poster mentioned.

[yoshisakan]

BTW - looking at your service manual the cam chain links are #2 = 1 and #3 = 20, like the previous poster mentioned.

I did see those in the manual, the crank timing mark is what screwed me.

Well I ran a leakdown test and all 4 exhaust valves are leaking air. The intake valves seem to be unaffected though. I found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-L-EXHA...#ht_500wt_1180 any idea if they will fit my bike? My exact model is a 1982 GS1100L. Is there a way to replace the valves without pulling the head? I talked to a machine shop today and they said that I could do it if I had a spring compressor.

I didn't think to shine a light down in there to look for piston damage. I'll do that tomorrow. I hope that doesn't open up a whole new can of worms.

[7981GS]

If you have already bent the valves, it will be PAINFULLY obvious if you shine a bright flashlight into #1 or 4 cylinder and
turn the engine with the 19mm wrench on the end of the crankshaft as you WILL see the valve hit the piston.

Eric

[old_skool]

No, they are not the same as your 82GL model, they have different part numbers in the micro fiche.

[yoshisakan]

No, they are not the same as your 82GL model, they have different part numbers in the micro fiche.

What is the difference between a GL and an L? My old 1000GL said that on the side cover. This one just says 1100L.

In another note, the valves smacked my pistons hard enough to eff them up. At least in cylinder 1. I'm not sure where to go from here, but I feel like I have a $1400 chunk of scrap metal sitting too close to my Datsun.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The "G" in the model number denotes a shaft drive. The side covers for th "L" models usually do not include the "G" and say only "L" for both the shaft and chain models.

You'll find a model information chart on the GSR homepage.

It may be more convenient to find an engine or parts bike with an intact engine to swap.

Thank
you for your indulgence,

BassCliff