My gs1100L wont make it down the street. Please help.

[MisterCinders]

Valve, intake
12911-49020

valve, exhaust
12912-49020

Those don't cross-reference to my bike. Sorry.

They turn up on a bunch of GS1100s and GS1000s though.

Hunt for eBay deals on the valves for these models:

• 1978 SUZUKI GS1000C & EC - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1979 SUZUKI GS1000LN - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1979 SUZUKI GS1000N & EN - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1979 SUZUKI GS1000SN - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000ET - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000GLT - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000GT - CAM SHAFT-VALVE
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000ST - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1981 SUZUKI GS1000GLX - CAM SHAFT - VALVE
• 1981 SUZUKI GS1000GX - CAM SHAFT-VALVE
• 1982 GS1100G - CAM SHAFT VALVE
• 1982 SUZUKI GS1100GKZ (Touring) - CAM SHAFT-VALVE
• 1982 SUZUKI GS1100GLZ - CAM SHAFT-VALVE
• 1983 SUZUKI GS1100GD - CAM SHAFT VALVE
• 1983 SUZUKI GS1100GKD - CAM SHAFT-VALVE

[7981GS]

I'd replace those bent valves by swapping out the head or picking up new valves. Trying to straighten out bent valves for reuse seems treacherous.

Looks like new exhaust valves for your bike are about $40 each from Z1.

Where are you located? I have a second head for my 8-valve 750. The valves may be the same as yours. If the parts can swap, my spares are straight and in pretty good shape. You might need to do some work to fit them your valve seats and will definitely need to lap them, at least.

The 750 (2-valve) and 850's are the same exact parts.
1000 & 1100 (2-valve) valves have much longer stems. And, before someone says something, larger head sizes.

Eric

[yoshisakan]

What is the best way to remove the valve guides and those rubber seals?

[koolaid_kid]

You need to purchase or make a valve spring compressor. You really don't want to mess with the valve guides yourself, that is a job for a machine shop. But you can replace the rubber seals yourself.

[yoshisakan]

You need to purchase or make a valve spring compressor. You really don't want to mess with the valve guides yourself, that is a job for a machine shop. But you can replace the rubber seals yourself.

I removed the springs after making the contraption that bob posted. I am trying to replace the seals now, but I cant figure out how to get them out.

[tkent02]

Long skinny needle nose pliers, grab the seals and rock them gently until they come off the guides. Some of them take a while.

[yoshisakan]

Long skinny needle nose pliers, grab the seals and rock them gently until they come off the guides. Some of them take a while.

Got em, thanks for the tip!

[yoshisakan]

Before I commit to buying valves from somewhere I want to share some recent findings.

First, the exhaust cam threads that spin the RPM gauge were sheared somehow when the pistons smacked the valves. It looks like it will still work, but good portion of thread has been destroyed. I noticed that there was some metal flakes in the oil, which is from this and has not had the opportunity to damage the bottom end yet. What is the best way to flush out all of this metal to make sure that it doesn't screw up my main and rod bearings?

Also, the gasket on the bottom of the cylinder block might as well be welded on. I cant get the gasket to peel off of the surface for anything. Does anyone have a good trick for this that is safe for the mating surface?

Thanks again everyone, you have all been a great help throughout this process.

[old_skool]

Haven't heard from you in awhile, getting everything back together?? going riding today, drop me a pm with your phone number or address, I'll stop in today sometime to see how your coming. don't give up, maybe I can help in some way. pm-ed

[yoshisakan]

Just to close the loop here, the bike is running now. I found some valves at a local shop and put her back together. She is running like a top, other than a slipping clutch when it's cold. I'm getting that figured out now though.

thanks for all the help everyone.

[old_skool]

Good to hear, so many run into problems, and the next thing you know, BAM... craigslist
Since we didn't hear from you in a while, just figured you put it away out of frustration, glad another one is on the road. Sounds like clutch just needs adjusting, maybe new oem clutch springs, don't change your oil with the standard automotive oils with all the friction modifiers, that's been known to cause slippage, use MC oil or a diesel oil, I use Rotella, cheap enough and protects our bikes just fine.

[yoshisakan]

Good to hear, so many run into problems, and the next thing you know, BAM... craigslist
Since we didn't hear from you in a while, just figured you put it away out of frustration, glad another one is on the road. Sounds like clutch just needs adjusting, maybe new oem clutch springs, don't change your oil with the standard automotive oils with all the friction modifiers, that's been known to cause slippage, use MC oil or a diesel oil, I use Rotella, cheap enough and protects our bikes just fine.

I actually ordered some new clutch springs on sunday. Also have new intake clamps and o rings on the way which will hopefully take care of this annoying vacuum leak. After that I need a new front tire, fork oil, and to tune the carbs. At that point, she should be 100%

[old_skool]

I actually ordered some new clutch springs on sunday. Also have new intake clamps and o rings on the way which will hopefully take care of this annoying vacuum leak. After that I need a new front tire, fork oil, and to tune the carbs. At that point, she should be 100%

You spoke to soon, hope you get the problems resolved, if I can help at all, let me know, might be free sometime next week. The over heating may have caused another gasket to go, hence the oil leak again, I'd be concerned with the over heating first though, must be running seriously lean. Check your plugs to find out if all cylinders were running lean, may have to recheck float levels and see where your mixture is set, hopefully nothing in your tank broke loose and re-caused some dirty carb issues, this is why I always use an inline fuel filter, some may disagree with this, but I refuse to run without one after I rebuild carbs.

[yoshisakan]

Yeah I sure did. I did manage to get a new tire installed today. Shortly after, the bike wouldn't start. It just makes this single click sound. I can put it in gear and roll it just a bit and it will start up. I think maybe the brushes in the starter are worn. I'm going to tear it down and inspect tomorrow when I replace my clutch springs.

On another note, I got my new intake o-rings. Turns out that the old ones were so old and brittle that they cracked into many pieces upon removal. This might be why the motor was running lean/hot.

Finally, I torqued the heads to 40ft lbs in the same order as previously, which is the correct one according to the manual.

I really hope I am close to getting this bike to a stable point. I don't mind a little wrenching, but it needs to be road worthy some of the time!

[old_skool]

Yeah I sure did. I did manage to get a new tire installed today. Shortly after, the bike wouldn't start. It just makes this single click sound. I can put it in gear and roll it just a bit and it will start up. I think maybe the brushes in the starter are worn. I'm going to tear it down and inspect tomorrow when I replace my clutch springs.

On another note, I got my new intake o-rings. Turns out that the old ones were so old and brittle that they cracked into many pieces upon removal. This might be why the motor was running lean/hot.

Finally, I torqued the heads to 40ft lbs in the same order as previously, which is the correct one according to the manual.

I really hope I am close to getting this bike to a stable point. I don't mind a little wrenching, but it needs to be road worthy some of the time!

If it still leaks, I'm going to assume either the gasket was re-damaged due to the lean overheat, or something was contaminated on the gasket surface of one of the mating surfaces, or got shifted during assy, happens to the best of us, sucks, but once you get it right, it will start to be a lot less troublesome, more riding.

edit, I woudn't be riding it till I was sure it wasn't running lean, clean the plugs and inspect them after a short run and warm up.