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Vacuum Take Off Adaptor For Carb Balancing
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Vacuum Take Off Adaptor For Carb Balancing
Hi, does anyone know where to get, or what to use as an adaptor to go in the vacuum take offs to balance the carbs? I've been going mental trying to come up with something all day. I'm in the UK. Thanks.Tags: None
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What vacuum gauge are you using?
Z1 Enterprises out of the USA sells some nice brass adaptors. Morgan sells some to go with their Carbtune. They are out of Belfast, so you'd probably get them in a couple of days.
Does the '81 have the same threaded synch ports as the later models?'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)
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EvilEnfield
Hi, I made the vacuum gauge, it has threaded synch ports, I think 5mm, at the moment I'm thinking of getting some bleed nipples, sawing the ends off and just winding them in, but 5mm nipples are hard to come by round here, this is a car town, there is only one motorbike shop and they are charging £3 ($5) each.
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MisterCinders
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stucknarut
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When you've finished synching them, I suggest you use them to connect manifolds 1 with 4 and 2 with 3. I bet you'll be glad you did.
WillieCommon sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.
Present Stable includes:
'74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
'83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
'82 GS1100G Resto project
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adam
I actually just ordered these. I got really tired of not having a quick way of syncing without taking off the tank and removing my vacuum plugs and all that jazz. You could see if there is anything available near you. Here in the US they are available in 5mm and 6mm
Last edited by Guest; 04-29-2012, 11:12 PM.
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The adapters are a lot less at Z1. Connecting the vacuum ports of 1/4 and 2/3 makes the bike run better. You will notice more low end power. You are connecting the carbs on the pistons that travel up and down together. One of the technical minded people could explain the dynamics. It's nothing new, I believe it was built in on some of the older 2 cylinder British bikes by the manufacturers. http://www.z1enterprises.com/Vacuum-...-5mm-4368.aspxLast edited by OldVet66; 04-30-2012, 08:01 AM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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EvilEnfield
Thanks for the replies, in the end I used my mums 5mm aluminium knitting needle, threaded it, drilled a hole down it, chopped into inch long sections and screwed those in with the vacuum pipe over the end. cost = £0.05p for electric. at some point I'll get some sort of 5mm screw cap to screw over and leave them on there permanently.Last edited by Guest; 04-30-2012, 11:10 AM.
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MisterCinders
Originally posted by adam View PostI actually just ordered these. I got really tired of not having a quick way of syncing without taking off the tank and removing my vacuum plugs and all that jazz. You could see if there is anything available near you. Here in the US they are available in 5mm and 6mm
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Per.../dp/B0012TTA5E
The vacuum port adapters that I use (also from Z1) have two long ones and two short ones. The long adapters go in the ports for 2 and 3, and keep my hands away from the head.
Replacing the screws after synching is not so bad, as I can use a hex driver, keeping my dainty hands out of harm's way.
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I don't know how heat would affect the rubber vacuum caps. I use 4mm silicon vacuum hose to connect 1/4 and 2/3 without any heat problems.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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I picked up a couple ft of vacuum hose at the local auto parts store. Its held up fine. Also, I put the hose on after the engine had cooled off. I wasn't in that big of a hurry.
WillieCommon sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.
Present Stable includes:
'74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
'83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
'82 GS1100G Resto project
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Okay, it's the first time I've heard of connecting the vacuum lines to the carbs. So it really helps on the low end?sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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If it's standard vacuum line willie, it will soften up after a while. I don't know how much you ride that bike, I'm on mine just about every day, and had to replace the standard line in several months. I have had the silicon line on for just about a year with no problems, but there is gas in those lines so I will change mine soon, just in case. Yes it does help, mrbill5491, not a huge change but enough to make it well worth while.Last edited by OldVet66; 04-30-2012, 12:37 PM.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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